Rear Speaker Bracket

[redstar]

I am a very impulsive person. I bought a pair of Polk Audio db5251's for my rear doors without checking to see if they would fit. So when I received them I was very disappointed. I needed to figure out a way I could make them fit.

First I did some reading, and found out the only bracket currently available would have stopped my rear windows from going down all the way(no effing way I was doing that). Then I thought maybe I could make a bracket out of the oem bracket and some PVC pipe, but it turns out they don't make pvc pipe in that diameter. I had also briefly considered I'd make it out of fiberglass(too much work). And then I thought I had it: make it out of MDF and spray it with truck bed liner to waterproof it. But alas, after 3 or so hours of messing around, it wouldn't fit. :sad:

:focus:

Now I finally went all the way. I downloaded the student version of Autocad, designed my own bracket and sent the file to a 3D printing service. Sometime this week I will be getting my babies in the mail. :dance:

If anyone needs a bracket of their own, I've uploaded it to Thingiverse:
Rear Speaker Bracket by redstarsrbija - Thingiverse

I used Matterhackers 3d printing service, it was by far the lowest cost.

JUST TO CLARIFY, I HAVEN'T TRIED THEM YET! I will update you guys as soon as I get them!

P.S. I haven't slept in 37 hours so forgive me if there are grammatical errors and run-on sentences and so on.

UPDATE: I have tried them, the bottom 2 screw holes are in the wrong place. No big deal though, just drill them where they should be. otherwise they fit wonderfully!

 

[BrightLight7]

Interesting. I would have just returned those and got the 6.5's. Better anyways

 

[riceandpho]

Just use wood spacers, the plastic is going to break with alot of force from overtighen screws, unless you use some small screws and predrill the holes.

 

[redstar]

Interesting. I would have just returned those and got the 6.5's. Better anyways

That would have been even more hopeless. The factory speakers in the rear are really weird... bout ~3 3/4" with 3 screw holes... the 6.5's would have been way too wide to fit.

Just use wood spacers, the plastic is going to break with alot of force from overtighen screws, unless you use some small screws and predrill the holes.

Then I wont over-tighten the screws? The holes are already there...

 

[Go JayBee]

Rear Speaker Mounting

redstar;
Here, check this out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1274294-post19.html

 

[redstar]

redstar;
Here, check this out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1274294-post19.html

Sorry, I forgot to mention that it is a 2001 4runner. 3rd gen, not 5th gen...

 

[redstar]

I received the brackets and the bottom 2 screw holes are in the wrong place. Apart from that(which is literally a 5 min fix), they fit like a charm!

 

[infamousRNR]

I received the brackets and the bottom 2 screw holes are in the wrong place. Apart from that(which is literally a 5 min fix), they fit like a charm!

any take-aways from your experience with the installation?...

i just purchased some POLK DB521's...

I'm hoping they are "thinner" than yours and i can dremel the existing speaker mounts to accommodate these new 5.25" speakers

 

[redstar]

any take-aways from your experience with the installation?...

i just purchased some POLK DB521's...

I'm hoping they are "thinner" than yours and i can dremel the existing speaker mounts to accommodate these new 5.25" speakers

Unfortunately, if you compare the specs of our two speaker models, they have the same top mount depth.

The other problem you will run into will be the width of the factory speaker bracket; it is significantly smaller than 5.25". So, if you dremel the factory bracket, you will have to widen it at its lowest point. But, then, the speaker will be mounted too deep into the door to allow the rear window to completely open.

So, if you want to maintain window functionality you will have to fabricate some sort of bracket.

If I were you, I would do a quick and dirty dremel job of the existing mounts, install the speakers, and enjoy the music till you fab a good bracket. Just dont forget that you cant roll the windows all the way down!

 

[infamousRNR]

Unfortunately, if you compare the specs of our two speaker models, they have the same top mount depth.

The other problem you will run into will be the width of the factory speaker bracket; it is significantly smaller than 5.25". So, if you dremel the factory bracket, you will have to widen it at its lowest point. But, then, the speaker will be mounted too deep into the door to allow the rear window to completely open.

So, if you want to maintain window functionality you will have to fabricate some sort of bracket.

If I were you, I would do a quick and dirty dremel job of the existing mounts, install the speakers, and enjoy the music till you fab a good bracket. Just dont forget that you cant roll the windows all the way down!

What about your 3D printed brackets you've made available?
Will that remedy the situation with both mounting and clearing the rear windows rolling down?

 

[redstar]

Yup! They do the trick!

The only problem was that two of the screw holes(the bottom two if I remember) for mounting the bracket onto the door were in the wrong position. So all you gotta do is drill them in the right spot and you're good to go.

 

[paraordnance]

I am a very impulsive person. I bought a pair of Polk Audio db5251's for my rear doors without checking to see if they would fit. So when I received them I was very disappointed. I needed to figure out a way I could make them fit.

First I did some reading, and found out the only bracket currently available would have stopped my rear windows from going down all the way(no effing way I was doing that). Then I thought maybe I could make a bracket out of the oem bracket and some PVC pipe, but it turns out they don't make pvc pipe in that diameter. I had also briefly considered I'd make it out of fiberglass(too much work). And then I thought I had it: make it out of MDF and spray it with truck bed liner to waterproof it. But alas, after 3 or so hours of messing around, it wouldn't fit. :sad:

:focus:

Now I finally went all the way. I downloaded the student version of Autocad, designed my own bracket and sent the file to a 3D printing service. Sometime this week I will be getting my babies in the mail. :dance:

If anyone needs a bracket of their own, I've uploaded it to Thingiverse:
Rear Speaker Bracket by redstarsrbija - Thingiverse

I used Matterhackers 3d printing service, it was by far the lowest cost.

JUST TO CLARIFY, I HAVEN'T TRIED THEM YET! I will update you guys as soon as I get them!

P.S. I haven't slept in 37 hours so forgive me if there are grammatical errors and run-on sentences and so on.

UPDATE: I have tried them, the bottom 2 screw holes are in the wrong place. No big deal though, just drill them where they should be. otherwise they fit wonderfully!

Just take some 1/2 or 3/4" plywood and make them yourself as other suggested. I got old bracket out, put it on top of piece of plywood, trace with the pencil on outside and cut it. May not look the best but nobody will ever see it. I made all 4 brackets this way.

 

[redstar]

Just take some 1/2 or 3/4" plywood and make them yourself as other suggested. I got old bracket out, put it on top of piece of plywood, trace with the pencil on outside and cut it. May not look the best but nobody will ever see it. I made all 4 brackets this way.

Just wait till it rains lol

 

[paraordnance]

Just wait till it rains lol

It doesn't rain inside doors, haha :der:

 

[redstar]

No, but the water does get in there. Why do you think there is a moisture barrier in every door?

Thats actually the reason my amplifier broke. Water got into the door and droplets ran down my speaker wire and shorted the terminals.

 

[paraordnance]

No, but the water does get in there. Why do you think there is a moisture barrier in every door?

Thats actually the reason my amplifier broke. Water got into the door and droplets ran down my speaker wire and shorted the terminals.

How did you get amplifier installed in door??? I could hardly position 1 tiny crossover. You probably talking about inside of the door? Well, thats a different story, but everything is sealed from that. Only back of the speaker exposed to inside.

I tore every door apart and lined with Hushmat on both sides of the door panels, in all 4 doors there was zero evidence of any water ever being inside. It was factory clean and dry, no dust, dirt or smudges. I think the poly barrier is more for condensation. Its been 2 years since I installed speakers and I have zero problems. May be one of these summer days I will pop the panel and see how its holding up. But I'm not worried much, if you getting water where my plywood spacers are, there is something wrong with your door seals, my crossovers located just beside and they would definitely got damaged, I been through countless rain pours. Not trying you to convince you do the same, but worked for me.

Original condition, as I said, pristine clean

Two layers of Hushmat on either side

As you can see from the pictures, the plywood I used already spent years outside exposed to elements, its cracked, discoloratred, but its not falling apart, not even close. Definitely not worried about plywood. Crossover would be damaged first

 

[redstar]

Oh no, my amp is under my drivers seat. The short was across the speaker terminals.
But I definitely get quite alot of moisture in my doors.

 

[freshley]

Is there any way you can get a 6 1/2" to fit in the rear without cutting the metal? How much did these cost you to get 3d printed? Is the one side just a mirror image of the other side of can you use the same bracket for both sides?

Thanks!

 

[redstar]

Is there any way you can get a 6 1/2" to fit in the rear without cutting the metal? How much did these cost you to get 3d printed? Is the one side just a mirror image of the other side of can you use the same bracket for both sides?

Thanks!

I'm not sure, it would definitely be a tight fit if you did manage it.

They cost me $90. But that was years ago, it would likely be much cheaper now.

The same bracket works for both sides.

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