Rear Suspension (OME vs Toytec vs Airbag)

[LEO98]

I recently swapped out my Daystar 2.5/1.5 lift for a FJC/5100 combination (minus rear 5100).

My current setup:
FJC coils all-around
Front 5100 set at .85
Measurements (driver side): front: 35-7/16 and rear: 35-13/16

The problem: I've noticed a slight sag (rear) when loaded with gear. I'm estimating approximately 150 pounds. I haven't tried attaching the boat yet (2000 lbs), yet I'm sure I'll end up with a sag.

I wouldn't mind a slight higher rear lift (2"). I typically carry about 50 pounds extra weight; long trips 200-300 pounds. Mostly highway/city driving with some light off-road use (no extreme articulation).


I'm considering the following rear suspension options and wanted some feedback. Questions welcome!

1. OME 895E
I've heard these provide close to 2.5" of lift; any experience with these and when they start to give)?

2. ToyTec "Superflex"
I heard these provide a smooth ride with some extra lift/articulation. Will these compensate enough under load?

3. Airbag
For some reason I'm not sold on these yet. I'm looking at either upgrading my springs and eventually upgrading the rear shocks to 5100s.

4. Other

Note: any issues having FJC/5100 (front) and a mix match 5100/TBA in the rear?

 

[TheTuckerTaxi]

I'm in the same boat as you and I'm going with the superflex coils and possibly airbags depending on how much they sag. I haven't been able to find as many reviews as I wanted for the superflex coils but they should have a good ride and are 21% stiffer then stock with 2 inches of lift. The 895e gives 1 1/2 inches according to Toytec:

Rear OME 895 & 895E Rear Coils (FJ & 03-09 4Run) - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits


Stock oem springs are 180lbs
OME 895E 260 lbs 44% stiffer than stock
OME 895 260 lbs 44% stiffer than stock
The 896 spring rate is 318 lbs 77% stiffer then stock
Superflex 218 lbs 21% stiffer than stock

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/42560-question-ome-users.html#post356815

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Thanks for posting those numbers. I've searched around and read about ome vs superflex, never actually saw those numbers though. When the time comes ill be going with the Toytec superflex coils.

 

[TheTuckerTaxi]

LEO98- How much total lift do you have in the front and back now? Also what kind of ride do you prefer?

I re-read your post and... If you just want to limit the sag then the airbags are the way to go if you don't mind inflating and de-flating them. Since you will be towing regularly IMO you should get airbags even if you change the rear springs because it gives you flexibility on leveling your ride with any kind of load and/or towing. The superflex will give you a little lift capacity over stock and the FJ coils but will definitely squat while towing a boat. I've added the FJ spring rates below.

Rear spring rates:
Stock oem springs are 180lbs
FJ oem springs are 190 lbs 6% stiffer than stock
Superflex 218 lbs 21% stiffer than stock
OME 895E 260 lbs 44% stiffer than stock
OME 895 260 lbs 44% stiffer than stock
The 896 spring rate is 318 lbs 77% stiffer than stock


More spring rate info: **stock spring rates are for FJs in this link**
Rear Spring Comparison - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Thanks for posting those numbers. I've searched around and read about ome vs superflex, never actually saw those numbers though. When the time comes ill be going with the Toytec superflex coils.

No problem, the numbers really helped sell me on the superflex + airbag setup I'm on aiming for. It seems like the best of both worlds.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I've got the oem air bag system right now, it rides horrible. I'm ditching it and going with the superflex and probably aftermarket air bags, best setup imo after seeing those numbers. I had considered fj coils with a spacer, but the superflex would be a much better setup it seems. Anyway, /thread jack.

I agree, if your satisfied with the way it is now, add air bags and you'll be done. If not, then look at doing the coils. The oem air setup has me spoiled, its been very nice having it auto level when load is added.. I think it'll cost $300-$400 minimum, but you can get the airlift bags with a compressor that auto levels and has a wireless remote for manual adjustment.

 

[CrimsonCountry]

LEO98- How much total lift do you have in the front and back now? Also what kind of ride do you prefer?

I re-read your post and... If you just want to limit the sag then the airbags are the way to go if you don't mind inflating and de-flating them. Since you will be towing regularly IMO you should get airbags even if you change the rear springs because it gives you flexibility on leveling your ride with any kind of load and/or towing. The superflex will give you a little lift capacity over stock and the FJ coils but will definitely squat while towing a boat. I've added the FJ spring rates below.

Rear spring rates:
Stock oem springs are 180lbs
FJ oem springs are 190 lbs 6% stiffer than stock
Superflex 218 lbs 21% stiffer than stock
OME 895E 260 lbs 44% stiffer than stock
OME 895 260 lbs 44% stiffer than stock
The 896 spring rate is 318 lbs 77% stiffer than stock


More spring rate info: **stock spring rates are for FJs in this link**
Rear Spring Comparison - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum



No problem, the numbers really helped sell me on the superflex + airbag setup I'm on aiming for. It seems like the best of both worlds.

Dont forget the Sway-A-Way coils. They are advertised as 1.5" but they lifted me around 2". They ride really well too as they are only 12% over stock (although that may be 12% over FJ coils...i'll have to look that up again.)

EDIT: Nevermind, I believe the SAWs are in the link you provided, but I can't check as Fj forums doesn't load up at work

 

[LEO98]

LEO98- How much total lift do you have in the front and back now? Also what kind of ride do you prefer?

I have about 2" lift in front and 1/2" in back.

I don't go off-roading too much, but if I do it's more expedition travel along with camping (easy/moderate trails); sometimes 300-500 miles of travel.

The boat is light weight (less than half the T4R capacity), but if I intend to take the boat on long distance rips, plus gear in the back, I definately would need better springs and/or airbags to compensate.

Would airbags be suitable for off-roading at any difficulty level? I was looking at the Firestone (blue) ones on Toytec...

I've looked on the forum without success...I'm trying to see what people have experienced with OME 895E with carrying extra load and/or boat/trailer -any noticeable sagging?

I just did a trip to south of Marfa, TX -lots of scenic driving; didn't get to go off-roading.
I hope to get to Big Bend National Park some time soon, and maybe Red River, NM (I heard you can drive the snowmobile trails during summer).

 

[TheTuckerTaxi]

Yes, you can offroad with airbags. However if they are pumped up (to level your load) they will reduce your travel and limit how much your wheels can articulate. Some airbag setups have both bags connected so when one wheel is compressed heavily the air transfers to the other air bag which helps your articulation. I think this should be a complete non-issue for you. If my superflex springs sag too much with a load I'll be ordering airbags the next day. $100 for a basic kit is too good of a deal for me to pass up.

Remember if you have different springs the regular 4runner air bag kit may not work for you. Call the manufacturer and they can help size an airbag for the springs you have.

With the spring rate of the 895e it will definitely help you carry a heavier load, but unloaded you will have a "sports car" firm ride. Most like it but some don't. If you don't mind a unloaded firm ride then get the 895e springs and if they sag too much then get the airbags. If you don't want a firm ride then just get airbags or superflex coils and airbags.

I think your best bet is airbags. They come with their own disadvantages but they are the only option that can always keep you ride level. For $100 they are a hard option to not try.

 

[LEO98]

Firestone Air-Ride vs. Air Lift 1000 Airbags

Is there a difference between the Firestone Air-Ride 4135 and 4135T?

4135

4135T

Air Lift 1000

 

[stanleybb50]

Pheww! Just installed the Air Lift 1000 today... Would you believe it took me 4.5 miserable hours??? I think the reason it took so long was because I installed without removing the springs/etc, which in itself was verrrry easy to get the bags in and run the lines, but making the hole in the spring base bigger with my little 90 degree die grinder was a bi***! Took forever! I think I just needed a better bit and my 7 gallon compressor was struggling!

All that work and I swear the hole is lucky if its 1/2'' and I'm nervous its going to put stress on the line or the nipple on the bag... Filled it up to 35 psi and it seems to be holding for now at least. I'll check tomorrow and see how its holding. I actually liked the stiff ride at 35 psi! I'll probably run it at like 10-12 psi for daily use.

I also ran separate lines and have the fill valves on the hitch. I'll try to post pics tomorrow. (I don't want to hijack the thread though, but just thought I'd share.



- Sent via Tapatalk for Android

 

[TheTuckerTaxi]

I also ran separate lines and have the fill valves on the hitch. I'll try to post pics tomorrow. (I don't want to hijack the thread though, but just thought I'd share.

- Sent via Tapatalk for Android

Sounds nice! Now get those pics up! Do you have an onboard compressor or are you always going to use your 7 gallon?

LEO98 - I looked around and couldn't find a difference. I think calling Firestone is your best bet.

 

[stanleybb50]

Sounds nice! Now get those pics up! Do you have an onboard compressor or are you always going to use your 7 gallon?

LEO98 - I looked around and couldn't find a difference. I think calling Firestone is your best bet.

Sorry, the pics aren't the greatest - taken with my cell phone, but I think you can get the idea. I routed the lines along the axle, basically following the brake lines. Obviously took the spare tire out, and routed along there once I brought them up. There's a few wires/etc that you can follow along up there.

You'll notice below, that the fill lines are on the right side of the hitch. There's actually two holes already in the hitch that were like just waiting to have these put in them! They're the same holes that are on the left side that hold the wiring harness for trailer hook up, only the mirror image on the right if that makes sense.

When routing above the spare, you just need to make sure they're out of the pathway of the spare and all. I should have taken pictures of exactly where I routed, but I was far too lazy at that point. I used some extra zip ties that I had around as well. I tied it off to parts of the frame and brought the lines down cleanly to the hitch you can see in the pictures.

As you can see, I also used some electric wrap (whever it's called) to "help" protect the rubber lines. I just hope this lasts! If I get a leak in the near future, I will NOT be happy! (Or even worse, if I get a leak when I'm all loaded up for a trip or something like next summer, I'll flip! haha). But all seems well for now.

I did leave it aired up to 10 psi for the drive into work today, and it actually felt a little bouncy (the wife commented). I'll air back down to around 5-6 psi and it "should" be the same ride as stock before putting them in (I hope).

 

[LEO98]

When installing longer OME 895/895E, do or should the shocks be changed out to compensate the lift?

I had my OEM shocks in when running my Daystar 2.5/1.5 lift-no problem.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Your travel is limited by the shocks. It doesn't hurt to run stock shocks, you just don't gain any flex like you would with longer ones so there's no benefit off road.