Rear Window Switch Check

[Bigger_Is_Better]

I've been trouble shooting the rear window in my 96LTD. It has stopped working in the full up position. (thank god) Now I'm just trying to get it back going.

I've checked the window lock switch and both the rear wiper and defrost work. I think it may be the actual console switch that's bad. When I push the up button I hear the relay or motor click in the rear hatch (it's all the way up). When I hit the down button, nothing but silence. My question is how to I check the switch? I know it can be done with a multimeter, but I can't find any instructions on how to do it. Any help would be appreciated as I've been searching the site for 3 days.

 

[MStudt]

Have to you tried using your key in the lock on the hatch to see if it'll roll down? I'm can't remember which way you turn the key, but one will roll the window down (not back up though).

 

[jkoni426]

might wanna start by checking the wiring that runs between the lift gate and the body, breakage of those wires seems to be a common issue

 

[Bigger_Is_Better]

Did all of the 3rd gens have the keyed down option? I don't have the original keys, but I did try this the other day. It didn't work. I've had the door completely apart in the past. The plastic piece the lock is held in by broke and let the lock linkage fall and jam it up. I fixed that about a month ago. I don't remember seeing any wires go to the lock.

I'm headed out to check wires now. I actually have a spare harness so if that's it easy fix.

 

[MStudt]

Did all of the 3rd gens have the keyed down option? I don't have the original keys, but I did try this the other day. It didn't work. I've had the door completely apart in the past. The plastic piece the lock is held in by broke and let the lock linkage fall and jam it up. I fixed that about a month ago. I don't remember seeing any wires go to the lock.

I'm headed out to check wires now. I actually have a spare harness so if that's it easy fix.

Not sure if all did or not. I'm pretty sure that when I turn mine to the left and hold it there. The window rolls down, but you have to hold the key until it's all the way down. If you have power locks then there should be wires for the rear.

 

[jkoni426]

I don't remember seeing any wires go to the lock.

I'm refering to the wire harness you can see in the upper left corner of the body when the lift gate is open

seen here:

 

[Bigger_Is_Better]

For those that haven't been into this area before.

None of them are broken all the way through, in fact seems to be just the sheathing. They were close enough they may have shorted something out, but no scorch marks around the breaks.

Is this a factory connection? It was down in the taped part of the bundle. Wrapped in heavy electrical tape.

 

[Bigger_Is_Better]

I'm refering to the wire harness you can see in the upper left corner of the body when the lift gate is open

seen here:

Holy Hell! That would definitely be a problem!

 

[TheDurk]

Did all of the 3rd gens have the keyed down option? I don't have the original keys, but I did try this the other day. It didn't work. I've had the door completely apart in the past. The plastic piece the lock is held in by broke and let the lock linkage fall and jam it up. I fixed that about a month ago. I don't remember seeing any wires go to the lock.

I'm headed out to check wires now. I actually have a spare harness so if that's it easy fix.

I owned the truck for a year before I figured out how to put the window down. You have to turn the key and HOLD IT. It takes a few seconds to start moving, so if you give up right away you think it doesn't work.

 

[BlazeRunner]

For those that haven't been into this area before.

None of them are broken all the way through, in fact seems to be just the sheathing. They were close enough they may have shorted something out, but no scorch marks around the breaks.



Is this a factory connection? It was down in the taped part of the bundle. Wrapped in heavy electrical tape.

This was exactly how mine looked when my window wasn't working, electrical tape and cracks in sheathing and all. I cut every questionable wire and soldered them and covered in shrink tubing and everything works as it should.

 

[Bigger_Is_Better]

OK, fixed all the wires. Still nothing. I tried the key method holding it for a good 20 seconds both ways and nothing. I'm guessing it's a relay or something in the ecm. From the switch in the front I still hear the click when I push up, but nothing on the down.

Any way to trouble shoot the ecm or do I just have to try another one?


EDIT TO ADD:
I can't find any info on what pole of the switch is for what, so I decided to just start testing continuity between all combinations.

My results make me think I have a bad switch.

There is Continuity between poles 1 and 2 when in the off position.
Also between 3 and 5 when the up button is pushed.

There is no combination that has continuity when down is pushed.

I'm new to this but I believe for the down to work there would be a combination that would have continuity. Am I correct?

 

[Bigger_Is_Better]

FIXED IT!! I finally said the hell with it and took the actual switch apart. I blew it out and lightly sanded the ends of the copper rocker inside the switch. Put it all back together, plugged it in, and the window worked!

 

[habanero]

Nice, Bigger_Is_Better!

Have to you tried using your key in the lock on the hatch to see if it'll roll down? I'm can't remember which way you turn the key, but one will roll the window down (not back up though).

Turn towards the left and hold to roll down and the right and hold to roll up.