Rear12 volt outlet question

G

gearguywb

New member
I have pretty much finished my storage drawers and plan on putting the fridge back there.

Originally planned to run a hot wire to the back and installing a Blue Sea panel. I would like to have a cover for the opening above the rear wheel well and mount the panel there, but I can fin anything that covers that opening.

Another option may be to convert the current 12v outlet in the rear to permanent power.

Has anyone done that? Thoughts?
 
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The rear 12V outlet gets enough voltage drop that some fridges don't work well there, so if a fridge is your plan you'll want a dedicated outlet instead of making the existing one full time.

there have been users here that have made custom panels to fill in that area, but i don't know of off the shelf products

i just installed my dedicated 12v outlet beside the existing one
 
I installed a Blue sea switched 12volt outlet and usb ports on the PS fender well in the cargo area.
Rather than post it all here, Just go into my ALBUM PAGE I wrote the whole process up for others to reference .
 
Also, all the A/C outlets (at least in the 2013) have no power when the truck is turned off. That's why people are wiring a separate outlet to a circuit that's always hot - and possibly an aux battery setup.
 
Rack said:
I installed a Blue sea switched 12volt outlet and usb ports on the PS fender well in the cargo area.
Rather than post it all here, Just go into my ALBUM PAGE I wrote the whole process up for others to reference .
Click to expand...

Did the tray over the wheel go back in? I've read that they're easy to damage when attempting to pull them out and the mounting tabs are typically busted.
 
Not sure what fridge you'll be using, but the one I have would not stay on with the stock wiring ('12 SR5) -- voltage drop was probably too high. This is with the truck left running for a couple hours to test it out.

So I got a Blue Sea panel with 12v outlet, dual USB charging ports, voltage meter, and switch to turn the panel off. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the under hood Blue Sea fuse box all the way back. All wiring at the panel is also 10ga which is tight but doable. There's also a 30a breaker before the panel.

I'll be switching the 12v for Anderson connectors soon as I don't like how the play is on the cigarette lighter style.
 
PK930 said:
Not sure what fridge you'll be using, but the one I have would not stay on with the stock wiring ('12 SR5) -- voltage drop was probably too high. This is with the truck left running for a couple hours to test it out.

So I got a Blue Sea panel with 12v outlet, dual USB charging ports, voltage meter, and switch to turn the panel off. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the under hood Blue Sea fuse box all the way back. All wiring at the panel is also 10ga which is tight but doable. There's also a 30a breaker before the panel.

I'll be switching the 12v for Anderson connectors soon as I don't like how the play is on the cigarette lighter style.
Click to expand...

Take a look at "powerlet" or "Hella" style plugs and outlets. I've been using them for more than 10 years for a mechanically secure connection for my fridge.
 
flyrv9 said:
Also, all the A/C outlets (at least in the 2013) have no power when the truck is turned off. That's why people are wiring a separate outlet to a circuit that's always hot - and possibly an aux battery setup.
Click to expand...

Exactly why I added mine. Better for me to charge camera stuff when sleeping on trips than to try and load up on a bunch of powerbanks or something. I did think about getting something like a small goal zero or something similar but this will do fine.

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gearguywb said:
I have pretty much finished my storage drawers and plan on putting the fridge back there.

Originally planned to run a hot wire to the back and installing a Blue Sea panel. I would like to have a cover for the opening above the rear wheel well and mount the panel there, but I can fin anything that covers that opening.

Another option may be to convert the current 12v outlet in the rear to permanent power.

Has anyone done that? Thoughts?
Click to expand...


Try this: Blue Sea/ OGE Auxiliary Power Outlet System with Voltmeter – Off-Grid Engineering


b
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PK930 said:
Not sure what fridge you'll be using, but the one I have would not stay on with the stock wiring ('12 SR5) -- voltage drop was probably too high. This is with the truck left running for a couple hours to test it out.

So I got a Blue Sea panel with 12v outlet, dual USB charging ports, voltage meter, and switch to turn the panel off. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the under hood Blue Sea fuse box all the way back. All wiring at the panel is also 10ga which is tight but doable. There's also a 30a breaker before the panel.

I'll be switching the 12v for Anderson connectors soon as I don't like how the play is on the cigarette lighter style.
Click to expand...




I too like Anderson connectors but I don't want to be restricted if I need to plug in somewhere else that typically doesn't have them.

If you use the Blue Sea plugs with the Blue Sea outlets they lock in very securely.
 
jp.vegas said:
Did the tray over the wheel go back in? I've read that they're easy to damage when attempting to pull them out and the mounting tabs are typically busted.
Click to expand...


The tray on the PS can be removed without breaking the screw tabs. Use a flexible screwdriver adapter lift the tray just high enough to guide the Phillips tip flexible head to the screws once your on the screw it break loose in a couple of turns. You can see in the photos in my album I used a plastic pudy knife and pry up on the tray. The tray will go back in but I would not try to reinstall the screws because you will occasionally need to get back in. use some Velcro.
 
Here's my setup. Blue Sea Below Deck Panel wired from an always on ST Blade fuse block hooked up to my aux battery.
 

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Rack said:
The tray on the PS can be removed without breaking the screw tabs. Use a flexible screwdriver adapter lift the tray just high enough to guide the Phillips tip flexible head to the screws once your on the screw it break loose in a couple of turns. You can see in the photos in my album I used a plastic pudy knife and pry up on the tray. The tray will go back in but I would not try to reinstall the screws because you will occasionally need to get back in. use some Velcro.
Click to expand...

Ok so it gets pried up a considerable amount and then you get in there with the flexible adapter to remove the screws before the tray comes all the way out? I'll have to source one of those as I don't currently own one.

Also, what a friggin weird design that is. Wonder why they brothers with the screws when the rest of the interior is nothing but tabs and snaps.
 
jp.vegas said:
Ok so it gets pried up a considerable amount and then you get in there with the flexible adapter to remove the screws before the tray comes all the way out? I'll have to source one of those as I don't currently own one.

Also, what a friggin weird design that is. Wonder why they brothers with the screws when the rest of the interior is nothing but tabs and snaps.
Click to expand...

Yes you could pry it up till it breaks and hope it breaks in the right place.
I just don't roll that way.
I didn't know what other damage would happen.
try Harbor freight for the flexible adapter and trust me it won't be the last time you use this tool.
Click on my album page, my full write up is in there with photos.
 
????? said:
If you don’t feel like making a permanent modification to your vehicle this will work

Amazon.com: BESTEK 300Watt Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter Car Adapter DC 12V to AC 110V with 4.2A Dual Smart USB Ports: Electronics

And here is a test and report of the inverter as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MnbfC88TBE&feature=youtu.be

This is the route I’m going to power the fridge through a separate solar battery bank in the rear.
Click to expand...

You're powering a fridge with an inverter? That's a really bad idea, inverters are terribly inefficient and will waste power, keep it 12v for the fridge
 
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