octanejunkie
Elite Member
I'm sorry, I thought you were talking about the alternator (the title and subject of this thread)
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Rebuild Alternator (W/ Pics)
- Thread starter Novashards
- Start date
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
Oh God. Disregard everything I said. I don't know what I was thinking (guess I wasn't)
Oops!
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Maybe my video can help you out. I strung together a bunch of long extensions to get the starter bolts out.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
I don't mean to hijack this thread, I got lost in my own thoughts while I was writing on here yesterday. I've watched your video a few times now Tim and I just can't seem to get it to budge. I'm not quite sure why I'm getting so hung up on the top bolt. There isn't a lot of space to work with, but I swear you make it look like cake in the video. And all the writeups that I've read explain it as a 30 minute job start to finish.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
You can’t get the top bolt out or you can’t get the Alt in position to put the top bolt in?
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
I accidentally misspoke referring to my starter. I'm not doing anything with my alternator.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
All good, man
Try soaking that bolt in PB blaster, I bet it's rusted in place.
Tim and I are in CA and we don't have the rust issues much of the rest of the country have. My starter was a 30 min job, too, and I also hit those bolts from behind.
My buddy Ed swapped his starter 100% from the wheel well, ratchet and all.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
Definitely have used PB blaster and even a bolt extractor. I just can't get a good angle to move a wrench around in there, even with extensions and swivel sockets. Sounds like operator error but I'd like to think not.
I'm interested to hear how your friend was able to tackle it from the wheel well. Especially with the exhaust pipe right there! Lol. If only my truck was a Cali rig, I'd just unbolt the exhaust and go full send on it.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Maybe I missed it. What bolt are you trying to get out?
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
phattyduck
Elite Member
Its right there. I don't remember having much problem with the starter through the wheel well.
Exhaust in CA is still not guaranteed - I broke a stud on the downpipe thinking it would be easy...
-Charlie
19963.4lsr5
New member
I used a bunch of 1/2” extensions that reached past/through the crossmember
And a swivel socket or a ball universal and a 1/2” impact or breaker bar for the starter bolts. Every stinking 4Runner those bolts were nasty tight
Edit: that top bolt looks mangled. Good luck getting a good bite on it with a socket unless you can hammer a slightly undersized one onto it.
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And a swivel socket or a ball universal and a 1/2” impact or breaker bar for the starter bolts. Every stinking 4Runner those bolts were nasty tight
Edit: that top bolt looks mangled. Good luck getting a good bite on it with a socket unless you can hammer a slightly undersized one onto it.
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Last edited:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Agree [emoji817], the OP did a fantastic job, however I'm with you, if the bearings on the alternator were bad I would replace the entire alternator.
That being said, swapping the brush holder literally took 5 minutes and at $20 cost for the Toyota oem part, I would go this route over a parts store alternator any day.
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