Removing stripped seat bolt

MrEMan

MrEMan

New member
The front left seat bolt on the drivers side in my 02 is cross-threaded/stripped … the seat wobbles and I can't back it out or screw it any further in. Any thoughts on how best to remove it?
 
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Use a small flat pry bar or a' flat screw driver and apply upward force on the head of the bolt while loosening it.
 
spartacus said:
Use a small flat pry bar or a' flat screw driver and apply upward force on the head of the bolt while loosening it.
Click to expand...

Actually, on that particular bolt, this may not be the best approach. It's probably not stripped, rather the thread has corroded and the weld-nut has broken free from the sheet metal of the floor contour it is welded to. This is pretty common. You can try the pry bar, but it probably won't work and if you force it hard with the pry bar, you will just rupture the sheet metal and do more damage to the floor. Pressure with the pry-bar is unlikely to secure the nut if the sheet-metal could not hold it,

There is no easy way. I would try to dremel the head of the bolt off. You could also drill the head off, but it might spin on you. If you have to, then just go violent and just pry the base up without trying to turn the bolt until the nut busts through the sheet metal. Then you still have to cut the bolt out of there.

The fix is easy. Just get a longer bolt and drill through the lower floor and put a nut and a big fender washer on the underside of the truck. Cover with RTV to seal. That's worked fine for me and many others.

Some people of the OCD persuasion have welded in new sheet metal or inserted a new nut through a slot cut into the side of the contour. Search and you will find them.
 
Last edited:
Thanks … I've already tried prying up on the head of the bolt with no luck. The explanation of the weld-nut breaking free makes a lot of sense. I can definitely cut the bolt with a Dremel, but was concerned about how I would get the remaining portion out. Sounds like cutting it out is my only option (other than just ripping it out, which would probably cause more damage).
 
MrEMan said:
Thanks … I've already tried prying up on the head of the bolt with no luck. The explanation of the weld-nut breaking free makes a lot of sense. I can definitely cut the bolt with a Dremel, but was concerned about how I would get the remaining portion out. Sounds like cutting it out is my only option (other than just ripping it out, which would probably cause more damage).
Click to expand...

You can just leave it, or fish it out with a magnet if you are lucky.
 
the welded nut for my driver's seat is now loose and was wondering if somebody could kindly measure the original center-center spacing of the two front bolts of the driver's seat? the seat frame on mine is wiggling so i can't base the correct measurement on the seat frame.

i'm planning to weld a nut to a piece of sheet metal and weld it to where the nut was originally welded.
Thank you.
 
From the center of the other hole and from the pinch weld of the rocker. :)
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Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
I welded mine to a washer then drilled and pop riveted it in. I would weld it in after in place though. Pop rivets can wiggle some ad welding is solid. That crossmember the nuts are welded to inside is kinda on the thin side. These nuts never should tear through. Design flaw.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Does anyone know what size the seat bolt is? I need to order a tap & die to fix boogered threads. Looks like it might be M10x1.0.
 
Odd. I have an issue with this same bolt. It just spins freely and I cannot screw it further in or out. Even with apply upward pressure.
 
sneezye said:
Does anyone know what size the seat bolt is? I need to order a tap & die to fix boogered threads. Looks like it might be M10x1.0.
Click to expand...

That bolt is p/n 90119-10825 *** STD. PART. The 10 right after the hyphen means it is an M10. Toyota M10s are usually 1.25 thread. This list has never done me wrong:

There are four primary considerations for spare bolts and nuts: (1) diameter, (2) pitch, (3) class (strength rating), and length (bolts only). Toyota was nice and standardized on only one pitch for each thread diameter, as follows:

6 mm diameter - 1 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 10 mm wrench to fit head / nut
8 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 12 mm wrench to fit head / nut
10 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 14 mm wrench to fit head / nut
12 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso other) - requires 17 mm wrench to fit head / nut
14 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 19 mm wrench to fit head / nut
16 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 22 mm wrench to fit head / nut
Click to expand...
 
TheDurk said:
Actually, on that particular bolt, this may not be the best approach. It's probably not stripped, rather the thread has corroded and the weld-nut has broken free from the sheet metal of the floor contour it is welded to. This is pretty common. You can try the pry bar, but it probably won't work and if you force it hard with the pry bar, you will just rupture the sheet metal and do more damage to the floor. Pressure with the pry-bar is unlikely to secure the nut if the sheet-metal could not hold it,

There is no easy way. I would try to dremel the head of the bolt off. You could also drill the head off, but it might spin on you. If you have to, then just go violent and just pry the base up without trying to turn the bolt until the nut busts through the sheet metal. Then you still have to cut the bolt out of there.

The fix is easy. Just get a longer bolt and drill through the lower floor and put a nut and a big fender washer on the underside of the truck. Cover with RTV to seal. That's worked fine for me and many others.

Some people of the OCD persuasion have welded in new sheet metal or inserted a new nut through a slot cut into the side of the contour. Search and you will find them.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this fix TheDurk I have really never drilled through metal like this before. Does it require a special drill or bit? Any advice about the procedure is most welcome!
 
"Thanks for this fix TheDurk I have really never drilled through metal like this before. Does it require a special drill or bit? Any advice about the procedure is most welcome! "


To drill out the bolt. You will need a metal drill bits. Start with a small bit and slowly drill through the bolt in the center. Then increase the size to 3/8 as 10mm is just slightly larger then 3/8 inch so the next size up is mostly 7/16 which is the largest bit you should need.

Once, you have it drilled out you can decide what method for fixing your bolt. :-)
 
brillo_76 said:
"Thanks for this fix TheDurk I have really never drilled through metal like this before. Does it require a special drill or bit? Any advice about the procedure is most welcome! "


To drill out the bolt. You will need a metal drill bits. Start with a small bit and slowly drill through the bolt in the center. Then increase the size to 3/8 as 10mm is just slightly larger then 3/8 inch so the next size up is mostly 7/16 which is the largest bit you should need.

Once, you have it drilled out you can decide what method for fixing your bolt. :-)
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's it. You will probably need to hold the bolt head with Vise-Grips as the drill will make it want to spin. Truth is, if you get the other bolt out, and then lean back hard against the seat, it will probably pop out. Then you can get a Sawzall on it. This is probably the easiest way if it works.
 
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