AKAndy
New member
Naw, it just makes wait a bit longer to shift when accelerating so you get the higher RPMs before going to a higher gear, and thus faster acceleration.
Removing towing hitch gives better MPG?
- Thread starter atalarico
- Start date
Naw, it just makes wait a bit longer to shift when accelerating so you get the higher RPMs before going to a higher gear, and thus faster acceleration.
Spencer
New member
108 ways to get better gas mileage
100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com
100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com
Gerdo
New member
The old racing knowledge is that every 100 lbs dropped from a car equals a 10hp gain. I'm not sure I buy this.
Removing the hitch will not only loose weight but reduce air drag under the vehicle.
I did notice a mpg gain when I added my full set of belly skids. It may just have been a coincidence with the switch over from winter/summer gas or something.
I doubt that you will notice anything when loosing a hitch.
Removing the hitch will not only loose weight but reduce air drag under the vehicle.
I did notice a mpg gain when I added my full set of belly skids. It may just have been a coincidence with the switch over from winter/summer gas or something.
I doubt that you will notice anything when loosing a hitch.
domstriker
New member
Reducing curb weight doesn't increase an engine's horsepower.
JohnsD90
New member
Winter Gas? I only know that diesel fuel changes from october to march so it doesnt freeze, i dont think gasoline does.
AKAndy
New member
There are definitely different blends of gas used in summer vs winter. From what I have been able to read, apparently the Federal Clean Air Act mandated that a different blend is used in the summer that is less volotile so that less of it will evaporate in the hot temps and contribute to smog/pollution. I also read some stuff indicating that the seasonal blends also are formulated to make cars run more efficiently based on the season.
Here's an interesting read on the subject: The Oil Drum | Refining 101: Summer Gasoline
Here's an interesting read on the subject: The Oil Drum | Refining 101: Summer Gasoline
I love driving with all the windows down including the rear- no roof darn it.- is that good for mpg?
how is this for mpg v. windows up and what about windows up w/ air on for fuel efficiency? v. windows down?
thx
Qyota
New member
No, but it does make those horsepower more effective at moving the vehicle. Simple physics, man!
Qyota
New member
The "winter blend" that most folks talk about usually contains more additives to evaporate water in the fuel system. Think of the product HEET. Methanol and isopropanol prevent freezing, but they don't burn like gasoline does. As a result, you get fewer BTUs per unit of gasoline with additives. This isn't as much of an issue in the summer, because water evaporates easier in warmer air...instead of condensing.
However, the major difference between seasonal fuel efficiency is air temperature - as it effects engine warm up time, and lubrication of all moving parts (including things like wheel bearings). Some folks try to combat this with lighter-weight oil in the winter.
Qyota
New member
Depends on your speed, and the load on the engine. At slow speeds (say, less than 45mph), you're probably better off with the windows down...especially if you are in stop-and-go situations.
When cruising at any speed in O/D, having the windows up with the AC on is probably more efficient. Not to mention much easier on your ears!
brian2sun
Elite Member
Actually, I was surprised how well my rear bumper took the impact when I got rear-ended by a full-size Dodge Ram at about 10-20 mph. I had a tow hitch on at the time, but it hit the corner so the hitch didn't do anything for me anyways. I thought it was going to be way worse when I was getting out to look at it right after the accident and it didn't even push the bumper upwards into the gate like I thought it would have...
Compared to new cars, the 3rd gen's bumpers are pretty solid.
The saying about 100 lbs being worth 10hp comes from 1/4 mile racing. In other words the time reduction you get from adding 10hp to your engine is the same time reduction you get from dropping 100lbs from your car.
It is a big chunk of weight, so by removing it you will increase MPG, but yes we are talking fractions. That fraction over 10, 20 or 100k miles adds up. I took my roof rack off for the wind resistance savings, but I purposely bought a 4runner with a rack because it has the rear air deflector. The air deflector over the rear window reduces drag by directing air to fill the vacuum behind the rear window.
I also didn't buy 4wd because I don't need it where I live, and I didn't want the weight. But the big savings on that comes in insurance, registration, repairs and maintenance. Start your flaming :flamethrwoer2:
I know they say how you drive is more important, but I'm always in a hurry.
I drive pedal to the metal all the time and get 21-24 mpg with my 4cyl. 80mph on the freeway with the AC on will get 23mpg.
But I do still have my trailer hitch, for looks are rear end protection.
It is a big chunk of weight, so by removing it you will increase MPG, but yes we are talking fractions. That fraction over 10, 20 or 100k miles adds up. I took my roof rack off for the wind resistance savings, but I purposely bought a 4runner with a rack because it has the rear air deflector. The air deflector over the rear window reduces drag by directing air to fill the vacuum behind the rear window.
I also didn't buy 4wd because I don't need it where I live, and I didn't want the weight. But the big savings on that comes in insurance, registration, repairs and maintenance. Start your flaming :flamethrwoer2:
I know they say how you drive is more important, but I'm always in a hurry.
I drive pedal to the metal all the time and get 21-24 mpg with my 4cyl. 80mph on the freeway with the AC on will get 23mpg.
But I do still have my trailer hitch, for looks are rear end protection.
domstriker
New member
Obviously.
Qyota
New member
Hey, you're the one who made the first obvious statement! :driving:
Martinjmpr
New member
Where is this 100lbs coming from? I don't know how heavy the hitch and receiver are for a 4runner but it's not anywhere close to 100lb.
It might be 25lbs at the most. And 25lb isn't going to do squat for your MPG.
The best way to improve MPG is to remove the lead from your right foot but a lot of folks aren't willing to do that.
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It might be 25lbs at the most. And 25lb isn't going to do squat for your MPG.
The best way to improve MPG is to remove the lead from your right foot but a lot of folks aren't willing to do that.
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rodskwad
New member
No offense taken Brian I'm glad you got out so easy. :lol:looks like a love tap from a rhino:lol:
I should have clarified. I was informed by my body tech and the local yota dealer ship that put simply the bumper and it's mount points are part of a crumple zone. Other wise bumper would have been heavier built and frame mounted like an off road bumper and not bolted to the body like a fender.
18 months back my rig got hit square in the other cheek by a Volvo x90 (20-30 mph INFO via police report) = $4,574 in damage oh yea the x90 took a flatbed ride thanks to it's crumple zones and a blown tire. :roadkill:
Sorry I don't have pics they fell victim to a virus along with my hard drive.I'll try to attach the INS.appraisal. Body tech said if it didn't have a 3" lift & tow hitch my bumper&body would have got it all and my truck would have been totaled. As it was the impact pushed and puckered my quarter panel bad enough to jam the side door, ripped the bumper up and put a dent in the tailgate the size of my boot (12 EE) it was deep enough to open a gap between the body&tailgate wide enough to slide your hand in to the cargo area. the body had to be pulled back to SPEC. The frame was checked on a laser frame machine no damage got really lucky no one was seriously injured. (including the :sleepy:narcoleptic:sleepy: with a valid Oregon Lic.that hit my truck )Some one was looking over my 70yr old mother she borrowed my truck to go to the mall
I should have clarified. I was informed by my body tech and the local yota dealer ship that put simply the bumper and it's mount points are part of a crumple zone. Other wise bumper would have been heavier built and frame mounted like an off road bumper and not bolted to the body like a fender.
18 months back my rig got hit square in the other cheek by a Volvo x90 (20-30 mph INFO via police report) = $4,574 in damage oh yea the x90 took a flatbed ride thanks to it's crumple zones and a blown tire. :roadkill:
Sorry I don't have pics they fell victim to a virus along with my hard drive.I'll try to attach the INS.appraisal. Body tech said if it didn't have a 3" lift & tow hitch my bumper&body would have got it all and my truck would have been totaled. As it was the impact pushed and puckered my quarter panel bad enough to jam the side door, ripped the bumper up and put a dent in the tailgate the size of my boot (12 EE) it was deep enough to open a gap between the body&tailgate wide enough to slide your hand in to the cargo area. the body had to be pulled back to SPEC. The frame was checked on a laser frame machine no damage got really lucky no one was seriously injured. (including the :sleepy:narcoleptic:sleepy: with a valid Oregon Lic.that hit my truck )Some one was looking over my 70yr old mother she borrowed my truck to go to the mall
