Replace ITREs/PS Bushings or entire rack?

T

texadelphia

New member
I've started gathering parts to replace my power steering bushings and inner tie rod ends. I believe only one of my ITREs are bad but I was maybe just going to replace both while I'm in there. I started pricing things and new OEM ITREs are $160 each and the bushings I got were about $50. Out of curiosity I checked the price on a new OEM rack and it's just over $500. The rack is original to the truck as far as I know and I'm currently at 226K miles. I don't have any symptoms pointing to a new rack but it's my understanding that mine's getting long in the tooth.

It seems kind of silly to spend $370 on bushings and ITREs when I can get the rack with ITRE's and bushings installed for $550 with the extra bushing that isn't included.

What would you do?
 
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texadelphia said:
I've started gathering parts to replace my power steering bushings and inner tie rod ends. I believe only one of my ITREs are bad but I was maybe just going to replace both while I'm in there. I started pricing things and new OEM ITREs are $160 each and the bushings I got were about $50. Out of curiosity I checked the price on a new OEM rack and it's just over $500. The rack is original to the truck as far as I know and I'm currently at 226K miles. I don't have any symptoms pointing to a new rack but it's my understanding that mine's getting long in the tooth.

It seems kind of silly to spend $370 on bushings and ITREs when I can get the rack with ITRE's and bushings installed for $550 with the extra bushing that isn't included.

What would you do?
Click to expand...

For what you are doing, a replacement of complete rack will be a better value option.
 
I'd go with a new OEM rack but still get poly steering rack bushings. A whole set of poly is cheaper than that single rubber OEM. At it makes steering tighter in my opinion.
 
CT135 said:
I'd go with a new OEM rack but still get poly steering rack bushings. A whole set of poly is cheaper than that single rubber OEM. At it makes steering tighter in my opinion.
Click to expand...

The rack comes with the bushings pre-installed except for the large one that goes around the rack on the passenger side.
 
It seems some people have trouble disconnecting the PS lines without breaking them, so be prepared to deal with that if you need to. I'm getting ready to install a new rack myself, and I'm going to get a new set of lines to replace my rusty ones.
 
the new rack sounds fiscally smart. fwiw i did bushings only on mine, and because getting OEM ITREs wasn't feasible given my schedule, i went with moog-branded 555, and they feel great, both manipulating them by hand, fitment, and feel while driving. i could get the outers as OEM so i did that. the hydraulic lines seem to be the issue to contend with.
 
There's hardly any corrosion on mine so I'm assuming the hydraulic lines wouldn't be an issue but if there's one thing I've learned about working on cars, it's not to assume anything.
 
photoleif said:
the new rack sounds fiscally smart. fwiw i did bushings only on mine, and because getting OEM ITREs wasn't feasible given my schedule, i went with moog-branded 555, and they feel great, both manipulating them by hand, fitment, and feel while driving. i could get the outers as OEM so i did that. the hydraulic lines seem to be the issue to contend with.
Click to expand...

So the Moogs that Advance sells are rebranded Sankei 555?
 
Sorry, I’m late to the game....every Moog I ever installed was replaced by a NAPA. I’ll never buy Moog. Ball joints, shocks...etc. Never!!!!!!


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I found OEM ITREs on Amayama for almost half as much as anywhere in the states. Hopefully they don't take too long to ship.

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I was in the same delema as you are in. My rack is still good, no leaks, so I kept the original rack.
Replaced both left and right itr from Amayama. Left and right otr's and rack boots from my local toyota. And poly rack bushings from a member from this site.
Prices were cheaper then.
 
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