Replaced JBL Sub/Added Amp: Install Pics/Info

Yeah I will keep you posted on how my install goes, planning to modify the cassette adapter to hide the input wire entirely. That should be interesting, and I think not so difficult. Trial run yielded encouraging results!
My local shop, Crutchfield wanted 199 for the amp and 99 for the sub, plus 40 for a "cheaper" install kit..
340 + ~18 tax locally vs. 210 no tax and free UPS shipping.. a real no brainer for me.
cheerio!
:cheers:
 
I just did the same swap. Although did a full on install with JL C5-650's in each door and an XD700/5 amp.

IMG_0617.jpg~original


Get a grinder to remove the webbing....
IMG_0613.jpg~original


IMG_0615.jpg~original


IMG_2999.jpg~original
 
Very nice work zimm! I had not thought about the dyno mat, guess I should consider that while its all apart.

Right now I am only doing the sub to get some true bass in the system. I'm happy with the rest volume wise.. although I think I over-drove the tweeter on the drivers door with my Sirius receiver audio output turned up on max right after install (run it at 1/2 now), I can hear the cracked rattle sound at high volumes sometimes.. might try some finger nail polish on it, if that's possible.
By the way those cassette adapters totally ROCK!!
I never knew till I bought my first one a few days ago.. all I can say is wow! meets all my aux input needs.
 
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Does anyone have a working link to a write-up similar to the one Ark originally posted: “How to Remove the Navigation ECU from a 2003 Toyota 4Runner”, or possibly a .pdf? When I click the original link I get the message “website has been suspended”. I’m starting the install tomorrow and I’m a bit concerned about missing a disassembly step (especially removing the rear trim panel).

Also, when you run the wire for amplifier level remote control to the center console do you drill a hole through the console? Disassemble the console entirely?
 
Does anyone have a working link to a write-up similar to the one Ark originally posted: “How to Remove the Navigation ECU from a 2003 Toyota 4Runner”, or possibly a .pdf? When I click the original link I get the message “website has been suspended”. I’m starting the install tomorrow and I’m a bit concerned about missing a disassembly step (especially removing the rear trim panel).

Also, when you run the wire for amplifier level remote control to the center console do you drill a hole through the console? Disassemble the console entirely?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/82995-how-access-remove-subwoofer.html
 
Dannyg was kind enough to do a writeup as he sorted things out, which will most definitely help. As I was browsing through my computer, I actually found a saved copy of the original page I used for this. The file is too big to upload directly here, but if any of you would like a copy PM me your e-mail and I'll send it to you.
 
Ok so update time!
I got the amp and sub installed. It went smoothly thanks to the great write ups here on what to do. I am highly impressed with the upgrade!
Loving my stereo now!

Because I have under seat vents I wound up closing them off by way of stopping them up with tin foil, then placing a bunch of layers of folded foil over the closed vents.
I do have a little harmonic rattling though on certain bass notes and will probably take the back section apart again and hunt them down when it warms a little more here in Va.
Also I don't have total faith in the screws I used holding up over the long term without loosening. So I may look at some ways of seating them in there better, currently its just the thin wall of the enclosure holding them, so maybe 2 threads worth of contact. I didn't use any sealant around the sub, so I wonder if it hasn't already worked a little loose from the hard hitting and might be the source of vibration I hear.
 
I'm gonna be working on mine before long. I'm probably gonna do dynamat around the whole panel where the sub is to try to reduce a litttle vibration/rattles. Also need to check screws as you mentioned. It may be a while but I will post an update when I do.

Glad to see the writeups helped and that you're happy with the swap.
 
Thanks for the write-ups!! I really like the stock placement of the aftermarket sub. Questions though, how are you liking the sub/amp combo a year later? Would you do it all again with the same equipment? Is the amp only for the sub or does it also provide watts for the door and center speaker?

Thanks!
 
1). My stock sub was blown, so I had to either unhook it or replace it. OEM was way too high and no performance gain, this setup was cheaper and most definitely an improvement.

2). I've not got experience with too many different subs, but out of what I have had, I still think this is the best quality system I've personally had.

I'm really happy with it, overall I feel it was very worthwhile. I helped another member install a new head unit a week or so ago, and I was amazed at how much better his sounded with just a new head unit. I liked it so much that I've now got a new h/u on it's way, hope to have it installed next week. We'll see how much of a difference that makes, but if it does anything like I expect, it'll be awesome. I don't know that I'd do anything different in my situation. Once my head unit is done, I'll compare my setup to stock, it's been so long since I've heard the OEM system I can't recall exactly. Our setups are similar, only mine will have the aftermarket amp/sub. I'll post an update then.

I feel for the money and specs, the equipment I chose is the best fit. The w3 is a better sub, but requires more modification to fit (and a custom spacer to be made). For what it took to install mine, I'm fully satisfied.

The amp only powers the sub, the stock JBL amp still powers all other speakers (just not the sub anymore).
 
Cool! That's great to hear. I really appreciate your research into this. I really like the integration of the steering wheel controls, camera, bluetooh and nav. Even though the nav isn't that great compared to my phone's nav it'll do. The only thing I feel missing is the ability to use my phone as a mass storage device and better speakers. That's why I'm looking into your method to replacing my sub and possibly door and center speaker for better clarity sounds. From what I read somewhere that it's not a good idea to go with metal tweeters because of the location in the doors. So I'll be pretty much going your route. Keeping things nice in clean.

Oh I forgot to mention that I'm thinking of going with Vais Multimedia Linq (VML) for the mass storage device.

Thanks!
s-one
 
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So I finally got my sub and amp going. I had the amp set on a low setting for about a week to break in the sub and just turned it up more. It it really nice to have some bass with out losing any cargo space.
I went with this set up:Boston Acoustics GTA-400m Mono subwoofer amplifier — 400 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

And this sub Polk Audio MM840 Mobile Monitor Series 8" subwoofer at Crutchfield Signature

The amp is like half off right now on crutchfield and there is a $20 off if you spend $100 or more promo going on right now too. I got the sub for $85 on amazon.
There is plenty of bass, i have the amp about 3/4 of the way up and it is really loud, prb going to turn it down.
I do have some rattling going on though, did the dynamat help with that for anyone who put it in?

O and about the screws coming loose, the sub came with mounting hardware which had little metal tabs that clip on the opening of the box that the screws go through. So I don't think they will be going anywhere. I did have to drill all new holes though..
 
Good to hear! I really wish I could compare the different 8" subs, but there's just not much info out there, and I've not found a dealer who carries them (at least locally). I went with JL because of the name, although I hear the Polk is a great sub as well.
 
<meta http-equiv="Content-Language" content="en-us">
<p><b>Ok so I was having too much rattling issues and couldn't delay fixing them
any longer. Took the back apart yesterday and Dynomat'ed like crazy, used 12
square feet of it and could have used another 2 probably. But it was very worth
it, it sounds like I took the 8 out and put a 10 or 12 in now.. Just amazing
difference! Far more than I anticipated, had to actually tune my amp down
considerably. <br>
<br>
Also bought clip in 'speed nuts' from Home Depot to secure the sub into the enclosure. That thing is as secure as Ft Knox now.<br>
Have some pics of my work this time. Also the clip a lot of people have a
problem with is like a pop rivet, took a picture this time to show how that
comes out. </b></p>
<p><b>Pop rivet clip, to remove grasp edges carefully without going under the
top, pull firmly.<br>
<img src="http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/7250/dsc02937.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Here are the #10 speed nuts I used to clip onto the sub enclosure, highly
recommended!<br>
Although #8 might have worked slightly better, as #10 screw heads cracked the
plastic ring just slightly when snugging the screws down.<br>
<img src="http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/8577/dsc02940b.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Inside cavity there was a small white square of OEM type dynomat material,
I assume that's what it was. <br>
<img src="http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/1097/dsc02942y.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Stock rear panel inside<br>
<img src="http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/4839/dsc02943i.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>After matting the cavity. I used the bottom far left corner piece to go
around the drainage tube to ensure no rattle from it<br>
<img src="http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/6180/dsc02944i.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Rear panel after matting, went under the factory fiber noise dampener as
well<br>
<img src="http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/5058/dsc02946x.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Sun enclosure with speed clips installed<br>
<img src="http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/2713/dsc02947d.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Back of sub enclosure<br>
<img src="http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/5274/dsc02948v.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Was running short by the time I got to the front of the enclosure, tried
to get all the large flat spots<br>
<img src="http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/2635/dsc02950lj.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Sub re-installed in cavity, factory amp re-mounted<br>
<img src="http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/452/dsc02952b.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a></b></p>
<p><b>Sub amp with adjustments easy to reach behind passenger seat. 1/4" screws
holding it to the carpet, so its not sliding around.<br>
(btw.. seat is slid all the forward in this picture, normally the sub not
visible)<br>
<img src="http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7301/dsc02953n.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600"/></a><br>
</b></p>
 
Looks good, thanks for the update! I've been heavily considering this as well, just never had any experience with the stuff so wasn't sure what to expect. I've actually been considering switching to a different setup, more so just for a change than anything else. However, I will probably give this a shot first, then go from there.
 

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