Replaced plastic filter housing with metal - question fir those that already did

Nuke

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The factory plastic oil housing was pretty tight nearly the entire time I was rotating it off. When i installed the metal one, it spun on easy until it couldn't go any farther. I think it snuggled up barely 1/8th of a turn, if that. It's certainly tight enough that it won't come off by hand. And, yes, I lubed and put the new o-ring on. I drove about 12 miles afterwards to let it heat up and it's not leaking but I'm a bit concerned about it loosening over time.

Anyone else have a similar experience? Normal? Not normal?
 
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The factory plastic oil housing was pretty tight nearly the entire time I was rotating it off. When i installed the metal one, it spun on easy until it couldn't go any farther. I think it snuggled up barely 1/8th of a turn, if that. It's certainly tight enough that it won't come off by hand. And, yes, I lubed and put the new o-ring on. I drove about 12 miles afterwards to let it heat up and it's not leaking but I'm a bit concerned about it loosening over time.

Anyone else have a similar experience? Normal? Not normal?

did you swap the center shaft from the plastic housing over to the metal one? the shaft on the metal ones are too short.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nsql811cqIU
 
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I noticed the same when I swapped out the plastic housing for the aluminum housing. The plastic screwed on and off with considerable tension while the metal housing screwed on very easily and came to an abrupt stop when torqued to spec. No loosening or leaks in the 4,000 miles since installation.
 
That’s the way the aluminum housing snugs up. Just torque it properly. I always leave the skid plate off for a day to ensure there are no leaks. It’s always good :thumb3:
 
this diy clearly says to swap in the longer oem tube.

Metal Oil Filter Housing Upgrade + Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench

20190417_112947.jpg
 
Mine is 7 years old and has seen extreme cold and extreme heat in FL, AL, CO, WY, and CA. Idiots and capable people have changed the oil and the plastic filter housing has never been an issue over more than 12 oil changes so far. I question the need for this part.
 
Mine is 7 years old and has seen extreme cold and extreme heat in FL, AL, CO, WY, and CA. Idiots and capable people have changed the oil and the plastic filter housing has never been an issue over more than 12 oil changes so far. I question the need for this part.

I was on the fence since I know of other vehicles with critical, pressure retaining parts made of plastic eventually popping the bed. I bit the bullet. The OE housing is stowed in the event it's needed later.
 
I installed the metal one recently and it was rather loose feeling to me. And to concern me more is the metal one doesn’t have the little safety clip thing. I am considering going back to plastic on the next oil change as I feel it will be more reliable for harsh off road vibrations.
 
I've had my aluminum one for 2 years. lots of 'harsh offroad vibrations'.
I tighten it by hand only, and usually require the filter wrench to remove it.

The design of the filter housing is to snug the side o-ring. Compression does not make the seal, rather the housing position relative to the properly-seated oring makes the seal.
 
Piggybacking off of this thread. Does anyone have difficulty removing the plastic drain extension from the aluminum housing? It's been tremendously difficult to insert and remove for me.
 
Mine is 7 years old and has seen extreme cold and extreme heat in FL, AL, CO, WY, and CA. Idiots and capable people have changed the oil and the plastic filter housing has never been an issue over more than 12 oil changes so far. I question the need for this part.

Bought my 4runner used from a dealer who had just changed the oil. 6k miles later I go to do the first oil change myself and the oil filter must have been torqued to 150 ft lbs. Breaker bar wasn’t budging it. Eventually I snapped the oil filter wrench on my 1/2” breaker bar, had to order another filter wrench. Take 2 resulted in finally breaking the housing loose but cracking it. That’s the only reason I went metal, was $25 on Amazon with 1 day shipping at the time and the truck was stuck in the garage.


OP I noticed same thing. Threading it in until the o ring starts making contact is easier to spin. Been 3+ years and ~40k miles later and zero issues.
 
Bought my 4runner used from a dealer who had just changed the oil. 6k miles later I go to do the first oil change myself and the oil filter must have been torqued to 150 ft lbs. Breaker bar wasn’t budging it. Eventually I snapped the oil filter wrench on my 1/2” breaker bar, had to order another filter wrench. Take 2 resulted in finally breaking the housing loose but cracking it. That’s the only reason I went metal, was $25 on Amazon with 1 day shipping at the time and the truck was stuck in the garage.


OP I noticed same thing. Threading it in until the o ring starts making contact is easier to spin. Been 3+ years and ~40k miles later and zero issues.

I had the same experience. After my last “free” oil change, I did my first oil change at home. I swear they put that housing on with an impact wrench. I broke one of the tabs off the plastic housing getting that thing off... Now I need to come up with a replacement.
 
I had the same experience. After my last “free” oil change, I did my first oil change at home. I swear they put that housing on with an impact wrench. I broke one of the tabs off the plastic housing getting that thing off... Now I need to come up with a replacement.
I did see a Dorman metal replacement filter housing at O'Reilly's.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I did see a Dorman metal replacement filter housing at O'Reilly's.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

You’d be better off getting a genuine Toyota part. Others have had leaking problems with aftermarket replacements. I paid around $28 for mine on Amazon.
 
Bought my 4runner used from a dealer who had just changed the oil. 6k miles later I go to do the first oil change myself and the oil filter must have been torqued to 150 ft lbs. Breaker bar wasn’t budging it. Eventually I snapped the oil filter wrench on my 1/2” breaker bar, had to order another filter wrench. Take 2 resulted in finally breaking the housing loose but cracking it. That’s the only reason I went metal, was $25 on Amazon with 1 day shipping at the time and the truck was stuck in the garage.


OP I noticed same thing. Threading it in until the o ring starts making contact is easier to spin. Been 3+ years and ~40k miles later and zero issues.

They probably didn’t lube the large rubber Oring when they installed the plastic housing.
 
Piggybacking off of this thread. Does anyone have difficulty removing the plastic drain extension from the aluminum housing? It's been tremendously difficult to insert and remove for me.

me too. It was easy with the plastic housing. It's a major pain with the dorman aluminum one I have now. I made a big mess last time
 
Piggybacking off of this thread. Does anyone have difficulty removing the plastic drain extension from the aluminum housing? It's been tremendously difficult to insert and remove for me.

Just did my first oil change (first one I've done, the rest were part of the free ones from Toyota) and I decided to switch to the metal housing. I tried the plastic drain in the metal housing before installing it just to see how it worked compared to the plastic housing and I had to nearly destroy the plastic plug to get it out of the metal housing. I ordered a Motivx drain to actual drain the oil from the filter housing and it was nice and easy to install, use and remove.

Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Advanced Engine Oil Funnel Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems: Automotive

Oh and just an FYI, I picked up my OEM Metal oil filter housing from the dealership along with two filter and two washer with tax for $46 or $48 and had it the next morning, Amazon was several weeks out due to COVID-19!
 
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