eelliiss
New member
Good to know I'm not the only one. With my aluminum housing, I've resorted to removing the entire housing, disassembling, and then removing the plastic drain from the inside both times I changed the oil.
Replaced plastic filter housing with metal - question fir those that already did
- Thread starter Nuke
- Start date
Good to know I'm not the only one. With my aluminum housing, I've resorted to removing the entire housing, disassembling, and then removing the plastic drain from the inside both times I changed the oil.
I second the purchase of the motivx kit. It is very nice and should last more than the lifetime of the vehicle. The filter drain tool makes the job so much cleaner. I also installed the FUMOTO F103S LC-10 Lever Clip... Amazon.com: Fumoto F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive
ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
http://FUMOTO F103S LC-10 Lever Clip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9FCRWM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
TheJokingExplorer
New member
I swapped my housing out for the aluminum one but didn't change out the metal center from the plastic housing. Is it that big of a deal?
LandCruiser
New member
Yes, it affects how the canister seats.
TheJokingExplorer
New member
My aluminum housing seemed to fit just fine. I had zero issues installing it no leaks ect... I guess ill change my oil a little sooner and fix it.
SnowYeti
Member
I am doing the same thing with the Toyota metal housing in a week or two. Should make it a lot easier and cleaner to just run both tubes into the container
MidniteTRD
Member
just attempted to install my OEM Toyota metal housing this weekend during a routine oil change, and with everyone else's success stories it seems like i'm "That Guy" who couldn't get it to work.
i noticed during installation like everyone else has mentioned; there was almost no resistance once the o-ring engaged the filter mount, the housing just bottomed out against the mount and that was it. the center tube was properly swapped, i lubed the o-ring and installed in the right channel, and it was torqued to spec. upon startup i had the presence of mind to leave the skidplates off and observe for any leaks. i immediately saw weeping around the housing-to-mount seam, and wiped it off. within 10 seconds it was filling up the seam with a thin line of fresh oil again:
i figured if it was weeping this much at idle oil pressure, i definitely didn't want to find out what it would do at 60-70psi trying to merge onto the highway at high RPM.
took it back off, checked over my work, and everything looked like it was supposed to. as far as i know its a legit OEM housing, and not a Chinese knockoff (purchased from McGeorge Toyota's online sales). The filter and o-rings were also OEM components bought from Toyotapartsdeal.com, so i feel like everything should have worked since they were factory parts.
i went back to the polymer unit with a fresh o-ring and it snugged up perfectly with no weeping at all. as far as i've been able to tell, i can't find any instance of the standard polymer housing failing in normal use while on a running engine. all the stories of breakage seem to be from installation error. i think i'll take my chances and just keep a second polymer housing around should the need ever arise.
i noticed during installation like everyone else has mentioned; there was almost no resistance once the o-ring engaged the filter mount, the housing just bottomed out against the mount and that was it. the center tube was properly swapped, i lubed the o-ring and installed in the right channel, and it was torqued to spec. upon startup i had the presence of mind to leave the skidplates off and observe for any leaks. i immediately saw weeping around the housing-to-mount seam, and wiped it off. within 10 seconds it was filling up the seam with a thin line of fresh oil again:
i figured if it was weeping this much at idle oil pressure, i definitely didn't want to find out what it would do at 60-70psi trying to merge onto the highway at high RPM.
took it back off, checked over my work, and everything looked like it was supposed to. as far as i know its a legit OEM housing, and not a Chinese knockoff (purchased from McGeorge Toyota's online sales). The filter and o-rings were also OEM components bought from Toyotapartsdeal.com, so i feel like everything should have worked since they were factory parts.
i went back to the polymer unit with a fresh o-ring and it snugged up perfectly with no weeping at all. as far as i've been able to tell, i can't find any instance of the standard polymer housing failing in normal use while on a running engine. all the stories of breakage seem to be from installation error. i think i'll take my chances and just keep a second polymer housing around should the need ever arise.
just attempted to install my OEM Toyota metal housing this weekend during a routine oil change, and with everyone else's success stories it seems like i'm "That Guy" who couldn't get it to work.
i noticed during installation like everyone else has mentioned; there was almost no resistance once the o-ring engaged the filter mount, the housing just bottomed out against the mount and that was it. the center tube was properly swapped, i lubed the o-ring and installed in the right channel, and it was torqued to spec. upon startup i had the presence of mind to leave the skidplates off and observe for any leaks. i immediately saw weeping around the housing-to-mount seam, and wiped it off. within 10 seconds it was filling up the seam with a thin line of fresh oil again:
i figured if it was weeping this much at idle oil pressure, i definitely didn't want to find out what it would do at 60-70psi trying to merge onto the highway at high RPM.
took it back off, checked over my work, and everything looked like it was supposed to. as far as i know its a legit OEM housing, and not a Chinese knockoff (purchased from McGeorge Toyota's online sales). The filter and o-rings were also OEM components bought from Toyotapartsdeal.com, so i feel like everything should have worked since they were factory parts.
i went back to the polymer unit with a fresh o-ring and it snugged up perfectly with no weeping at all. as far as i've been able to tell, i can't find any instance of the standard polymer housing failing in normal use while on a running engine. all the stories of breakage seem to be from installation error. i think i'll take my chances and just keep a second polymer housing around should the need ever arise.
There should be some resistance so sounds like the oring isn’t in the right location. Could have installed in wrong location or slipped out of position.
I put a lot of oil on the oring and inside the housing on the engine. I also thread it on the housing till resistance then pull it out to check the oring. I’ll then put more oil to the oring and install. Probably don’t need to check it but I do.
Charlievee
Senior Member
Find myself thinking if there's a conversion kit to use a normal oil filter? What's the logic behind the cartridge system, besides bean counting?
08TxRunner
Member
Can't say I've had that problem with the metal housing. It spins freely until I get to the o-ring, then there is resistance, then it seats. It almost sounds like you guys are experiencing an o-ring issue.
MidniteTRD
Member
my first thought was that i screwed up the o-ring installation, which is easy to do since there's a big gap between the end of the threads and the actual channel where the o-ring sits...so its easy at first glance to get it in the wrong place.
when i took it back off the o-ring was right where it should be. there appeared to be nothing wrong with the installation and i really checked over everything carefully because so many people had no issue with this so i was sure i had done something wrong.
there was zero resistance when it was getting tightened down. the ring was in the right place so i wonder if it did manage to catch and shift out of position due to a lack of lube on the inside of the housing. what i don't understand is that the polymer housing had no issue seeing resistance and seating properly when i cleaned up the housing the exact same way. maybe it was a bum o-ring, but i feel like the odds of that are pretty low for an OEM product.
i may give it another shot on another oil change but its been a real PITA so far for a mod that the truck doesn't necessarily need, provided the stock unit isn't overtightened.
Last edited:
08TxRunner
Member
At this point then I'd replace that housing. That's definitely not right.
Hans Moleman
New member
The Motivx oil filter socket sucks because it has loose tolerances around the flats and relies on the tabs which break.
I use this forged filter socket that has no slots for the ears and has close tolerances on the flats which will not slip.
Amazon.com: Tool Guy Republic Forged Chrome Vanadium Oil Filter Wrench Socket for Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Type Oil Filter Housings - 64mm 14 Flats: Automotive
After 2 'free' oil changes, my filter canister was stuck on pretty good. This filter socket had no troubles removing it and did not slip or mangle up the flats on the caniser.
I use this forged filter socket that has no slots for the ears and has close tolerances on the flats which will not slip.
Amazon.com: Tool Guy Republic Forged Chrome Vanadium Oil Filter Wrench Socket for Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Type Oil Filter Housings - 64mm 14 Flats: Automotive
After 2 'free' oil changes, my filter canister was stuck on pretty good. This filter socket had no troubles removing it and did not slip or mangle up the flats on the caniser.
08TxRunner
Member
This is the one I bought and it's worked fine so far:
Amazon.com: TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060): Automotive
Amazon.com: TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060): Automotive
ElectroBoy
Banned
I ran into the same issue that you did. But I’ve reached a different conclusion. I’ve done three oil changes after installing the metal filter housing and have had no perceived leakage until this time.
Unlike the plastic housing that snugs up tightly to the engine, when you spin the metal one on until it stops, the rubber o-ring provides the tension to hold it in place as well as seal the oil. You don’t get a real good feeling of snugness with the torque wrench. This time when I started to remove the filter drain plug, which I previously torqued to the proper 10 ft-lbs, it wouldn’t break free but the whole housing turned. I could have held the housing in place with a large wrench while unscrewing the drain plug , but instead I performed the gallon-ziplock-bag-as-a-condom method to catch all the contained oil while unscrewing it by hand. The whole filter and housing was oiled up in the process.
Then I cleaned it up, put it in a vise, removed the drain plug, installed a new small o-ring, installed drain plug, new large o-ring, new filter element, oiled up the o-ring really well, and installed it. After wiping everything down I started the 4R and checked for leaks. After adjusting the oil level I went on a test ride and ran some errands. When I got back I checked the filter for leaks and saw an area of the filter was oily and seepage around the rim. I wiped it all clean and especially around the rim. After a few minutes it still seemed to continue to seep out a little so I kept cleaning it repeatedly for several more minutes. I found my old plastic housing and was going to replace the next day, but when I checked the next morning it wasn’t leaking any more. I took another test drive and checked it again. It stayed pretty clean, except if I ran a paper towel around the perimeter at the engine interface with a fingernail I would detect a little smear of oil. I left the skids off for a few more days and continued to check it this way each time after driving around. I can still detect a little smear of oil if I press in with a fingernail.
So, I believe the housing sealed properly but since I had a lot of oil on the threads it looked like a leak until it all gradually seeped out at the open end of the thread. And took several days to work it all out. Maybe that’s what happened in your case.
Next oil change:
-Hold housing steady with channel lock pliers, remove plug and drain.
-Oil the o-ring but clean all oil off filter threads and engine threads. before re-installing.
-Keep skids off for a day or two to verify for no leaks.
MidniteTRD
Member
hey thanks for letting me know! at least now i know i'm not crazy. i definitely didn't clean off the inside of the housing so its possible some oil got on the threads and was just draining off of them like you described.
i'll give it another shot sometime and see if its just a matter of allowing the residual oil to seep out. i still don't like the design being like that, but it sounds like its not harmful, really.
ElectroBoy
Banned
I just changed my oil and filter, paying special attention to completely clean the threads of the filter housing and the threads on the engine side. I screwed on the metal filter housing by hand. It snugs right up solidly and takes no additional torqueing. After a day of driving and observing there was absolutely no leakage.
