Replacement Ignition Key Programming

[TrexRunnerGirl]

Hi again sorry I'm posting so much.
I have ONE original key with the chip. I had another made by the local Ace Hardware store.
I just got 2 chip keys not programmed from Amazon, got them cut, now need to program them to work in my 1999 T4R.

I have tried the instructions that came with it and it hasn't worked so far.
Does anyone have any suggestions and is this a 4C chip for this year of SUV?

many thanks again.

 

[KingPrat]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the 3rd gen uses a chip key.

I have a full metal key on my '00 and it starts right up. I do not have the factory security system, not sure if that would make a difference.


Have you tried them out?

 

[dozerfrelich]

My 99 limited uses chipped keys. I took mine to Walmart to get them programmed. Just bring the old one and it shouldn't take more then a minute


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[gamefreakgc]

I believe the factory security system only has the key fob that needs to be programmed, there's no chip in the keys at all. Which is why you don't have to go to the dealer for a replacement key.

 

[ricosuavito]

I have a 2000 SR5 and just went thru the steps to program my key and it works. Not sure if it's working b/c I successfully programmed the keys or if it's because the car does not have chipped keys!

 

[TheDurk]

I believe the factory security system only has the key fob that needs to be programmed, there's no chip in the keys at all. Which is why you don't have to go to the dealer for a replacement key.

The chip is for the immobilizer, which is separate from the alarm. It was an option, found mainly on Limiteds. Not sure which years, but '99 and up for sure.

Here is the FSM procedure for 2000, which should be the same as for 1999. If four keys were registered, you cannot register any more. Use the deletion procedure to erase all keys except the master and then add.

 

[TheDurk]

I have a 2000 SR5 and just went thru the steps to program my key and it works. Not sure if it's working b/c I successfully programmed the keys or if it's because the car does not have chipped keys!

You can tell the master keys apart. The non-chip keys are black and the slot is wide--the whole width of the head. Chipped keys are greyish and the hole is a small rectangle.

All metal keys have no chip, obviously. So if you have one of those that works, no immobilizer.

 

[Brian.]

You can tell the master keys apart. The non-chip keys are black and the slot is wide--the whole width of the head. Chipped keys are greyish and the hole is a small rectangle.

Er, to the best of my knowledge ALL keys with a plastic head have the immobilizer chip in them (no reason for the more expensive/complex manufacturing process otherwise). Only the all-metal keys don't have a chip. Of course, just because the KEY has a chip doesn't mean the vehicle has the immobilizer, it might just the replacement key that happened to be available/purchased at the time one was needed.

I may be mistaken about this, but the Black keys were supposed to be "master" and the Grey keys were supposed to be "sub" (also called Valet, but that's to do with how the metal key is cut, not the chip in colored plastic).

The one key I got with my 4R was black, and was a "sub" (not one you can use to reprogram)... so the PO had their grey "sub" key cloned onto a a replacement that was black. With these things as old as they are, who knows what's happened in the past, I say that having bought a one-owner vehicle (should have had a better chance at good info, can't help he was a shitty, lying a-hole).

Easiest way I know to identify the key is to simply put it into the ignition and watch the "Security" light. No "Security" light, no immobilizer, no need for a chipped key. If the "Security" light goes out right away, it's a master and can be used to program other keys. If the light stays on for about 3 seconds and then goes out, that's a "sub" key and is only good for starting the vehicle.

I know the immobilizer exists on the 1999 Limited, as that's what I have.

 

[phattyduck]

Er, to the best of my knowledge ALL keys with a plastic head have the immobilizer chip in them (no reason for the more expensive/complex manufacturing process otherwise).

Nope. My SR5 (bought new by my dad) came with one plastic 'master' key, one metal master key and one metal valet key - no immobilizer. The only difference on between master and valet on the non-immobilizer keys is that the master keys can lock/unlock the glove box...

-Charlie

 

[Brian.]

Nope. My SR5 (bought new by my dad) came with one plastic 'master' key, one metal master key and one metal valet key - no immobilizer. The only difference on between master and valet on the non-immobilizer keys is that the master keys can lock/unlock the glove box...

-Charlie

That clears even more of the rampant confusion I ran into when digging for key info. Well, doesn't clear it up, but helps me understand why there is so much confusion about keys. I wonder if the only visual indicator of the factory immobilizer is the Security light (the one just right of the rear window switch, not the LED in a switch-plate that came with the RS3000 alarm).

 

[phattyduck]

That clears even more of the rampant confusion I ran into when digging for key info. Well, doesn't clear it up, but helps me understand why there is so much confusion about keys. I wonder if the only visual indicator of the factory immobilizer is the Security light (the one just right of the rear window switch, not the LED in a switch-plate that came with the RS3000 alarm).

The immobilizer keys are clearly different (fatter/thicker) than the non-immobilizer plastic keys... But you do have to know what you are looking at.

-Charlie

 

[ricosuavito]

Interesting thread... I will post a picture of my keys and see what the jury has to say whether it is chipped or not!

 

[ricosuavito]

The top key is the only one that came with the car.

The bottom key I bought off Amazon and thought I programmed and it works.

The key fobs were also bought on Amazon and programmed successfully to lock/unlock, roll down rear window, and set off the panic honking horns.

Off topic but I don't think I have a stock alarm in the car, although I do have the little red LED security light sitting to the left of my steering wheel with the glass breakage mic.

 

[phattyduck]

The top key is the only one that came with the car.

The bottom key I bought off Amazon and thought I programmed and it works.

The key fobs were also bought on Amazon and programmed successfully to lock/unlock, roll down rear window, and set off the panic honking horns.

Off topic but I don't think I have a stock alarm in the car, although I do have the little red LED security light sitting to the left of my steering wheel with the glass breakage mic.

The top key there is a non-immobilizer master key. So, just a standard key with a plastic top. You have the factory alarm, but no immobilizer (they are separate systems).

The bottom key is an immobilizer (looking) key, but you have no need for the immobilizer key.

-Charlie

 

[TheDurk]

The top key there is a non-immobilizer master key. So, just a standard key with a plastic top. You have the factory alarm, but no immobilizer (they are separate systems).

The bottom key is an immobilizer (looking) key, but you have no need for the immobilizer key.

-Charlie

Just confirming this is correct. The top key is the same master key that came with my non-immobilizer, non-alarm, '99 SR5, which also came with an all-metal master and an all-metal valet key. It has no chip, and if it works, neither does your truck.

Please note that matches the description in my post above. Here is the factory immobilizer transponder key, which is also as I described. The size of the hole is the key difference.

Disregard any posts which disagreed with me.

 

[Brian.]

Disregard any posts which disagreed with me.

Cheeky bstard... :lmao:

 

[ricosuavito]

The top key there is a non-immobilizer master key. So, just a standard key with a plastic top. You have the factory alarm, but no immobilizer (they are separate systems).

The bottom key is an immobilizer (looking) key, but you have no need for the immobilizer key.

-Charlie

Huge thanks for confirming. I wasted a few bucks ordering the immobilizer keys and I thought I was a genius for getting it programmed on the first try, haha.

I think I'll ditch these keys and get simple metal ones. Less bulk.

 

[sean.turner.1238]

1. Insert black programmed key into ignition.
2. Press and release accelerator pedal 5 times within 15 seconds of inserting key into ignition.
3. Press and release brake pedal 6 times within 20 seconds of step 2.
4. Remove black key from ignition switch.
5. Insert new unprogrammed key into ignition within 10 seconds of step 4.
6. Press and release accelerator pedal once within 10 seconds of step 5.
7. Once these steps are performed properly you will see the immobilizer warning lamp begin to flash and after one minute the lamp will stop flashing. Once the immobilizer warning lamp stops flashing you will have 10 seconds to insert an additional key to be programmed.
8. Within 10 seconds of inserting key into ignition press and release accelerator pedal once.
9. Immobilizer warning lamp will flash and after one minute the lamp will shut off.

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[JoeT4R]

You can tell the master keys apart. The non-chip keys are black and the slot is wide--the whole width of the head. Chipped keys are greyish and the hole is a small rectangle.

All metal keys have no chip, obviously. So if you have one of those that works, no immobilizer.

I have both the black plastic key as well as the all metal key (with the small rectangle)
I prefer the all metal key since it doesn’t brake easily like the black plastic one. It also seems to act like a master key, it can open and lock all doors, hatch and glove box. I had the all metal key cut for my truck at the Toyota dealership and never have had an issue.

What does this mean for my 01 SR5 in terms of having/not having an immobilizer? Or can you not tell just based off of that?


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[Bad Luck]

I have both the black plastic key as well as the all metal key (with the small rectangle)
I prefer the all metal key since it doesn’t brake easily like the black plastic one. It also seems to act like a master key, it can open and lock all doors, hatch and glove box. I had the all metal key cut for my truck at the Toyota dealership and never have had an issue.

What does this mean for my 01 SR5 in terms of having/not having an immobilizer? Or can you not tell just based off of that?


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If you are able to use the all metal key to start the vehicle then you don't have an immobilizer