Replacing driveshaft zerks?

I went to grease my driveshaft yesterday and noticed that the zerk on the rear slip-yoke isn't functioning properly. The check-ball/spring must have some crud in it -- after I remove the grease gun, grease oozes out of the hole because the ball isn't sealing it.

Somehow I've never had to replace one of these before. It looks like it should come off with a socket as there is a hex base.

What do we know about the thread size and stuff? I'm going to start doing some snooping of my own, but I thought maybe someone here already did the job and has the info handy. I'm sure I could go to the dealer, but if this is something I could get at my local place, all the better.
 
Register to hide this ad
sorry i dont know the thread size. but if you can bring the zerk in, most hardware stores will have a thread size/pitch card to verify what you have.

another thing to try is to poke the ball with a small screw driver or ice pick type tool & see if you can dislodge whatever debris may be stuck in there, ive had them reseal that way before. have also had stuck check balls & was able to poke them free.
 
I'm not 100% certain but I think all zerks have "pipe" threads, in other words the threaded portion tapers and you tighten the piece don until it fairly tight and with the tapered threads it seal itself as it tightens, but I could be wrong on the thread type.

Edit:Well I'm partially correct, some are tapered (pipe thread) and some are straight threads, here a website that says by reading the article you can determine the type and thread size.

Grease Fitting Thread Identification - GreaseExtensionHoses.com
 
Last edited:
The big risk (only because I’ve had it happen in the past) is snapping it off when trying to remove it. Then you’re pretty screwed since drilling it out will create metal chips, which you don’t want in there. The only chance at that point is to use an easy out and hope for the best, otherwise it’s a new driveshaft. I would soak it for a couple of days worth of applications of PB Blaster, or similar before even touching it, then be very gentle with a small box end wrench to try to break it free. A socket can be used, but I prefer a tiny box end wrench for these to have better feel of the torque being applied. Most of the time they come out easily this way, but I have snapped them in the past using sockets, which is why I use the method I detailed. Once you remove it, just take it to Napa, or similar, and they should be able to match it.
 
Yep, like terminator said. Very gently. Zerks aren't available separate at the dealership, only sold with the whole yoke/shaft.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top