Replacing Front Axle
- Thread starter Desert Fox
- Start date
Desert Fox
New member
Got er done :jump::jump::jump:
It really is a pretty easy procedure. Of course I added my normal delays like putting the hub back on without putting on the brake sheild.
And I always clean everything before putting things back together.
Over all the job cost me less than $100.
Hmmmm that saved me $500. I should go buy new wheels :bluejump:
Thanks to everyone for their input and the write ups that have been posted.
I love these forums.
It really is a pretty easy procedure. Of course I added my normal delays like putting the hub back on without putting on the brake sheild.
And I always clean everything before putting things back together.
Over all the job cost me less than $100.
Hmmmm that saved me $500. I should go buy new wheels :bluejump:
Thanks to everyone for their input and the write ups that have been posted.
I love these forums.
Desert Fox
New member
For the record
I ended up doing this 4 times.
The problem was getting the seal installed correctly.
It is not clear where the seal fits in so it is easy to push in to far or at an angle, I did both, more than once.
It was after talking to Acidmeld that I was able to get the seal in correctly and not leaking.
The seal goes in flush with the housing race. I put some silicon spray on the seal and the race and gently pushed it in with my fingers- no tools required.
I cant do it in 20 minutes but I am a lot faster now.
Oh yea, my front end is a lot cleaner than it was at the beginning too. Everytime I was under there I cleaned something.
I ended up doing this 4 times.
The problem was getting the seal installed correctly.
It is not clear where the seal fits in so it is easy to push in to far or at an angle, I did both, more than once.
It was after talking to Acidmeld that I was able to get the seal in correctly and not leaking.
The seal goes in flush with the housing race. I put some silicon spray on the seal and the race and gently pushed it in with my fingers- no tools required.
I cant do it in 20 minutes but I am a lot faster now.
Oh yea, my front end is a lot cleaner than it was at the beginning too. Everytime I was under there I cleaned something.
Let me guess, you are 16 now?
Desert Fox
New member
I remembered you saying that but it sounded more risky so I did not try it. After I understood where it was supposed to go, it was easily pushed in place with my fingers (using silicon spray).
My luck, I would have pushed it in with the axle and jammed it in sideways or something.
I learn things real well because I usually get to do them multiple times :hatsoff:
Joseph_Conrad
New member
Ha, I was just quoted over 800 for driver side cv axle replacement at the dealership in Rochester MN. I guess the price keeps going up, what a joke. Their coupons are funny too, "10 dollars off service".
This stuff really burns me up. Toyota is flooding my Facebook feed with ads saying 'Auto work shouldn't be DIY. Visit our local Toyota service professional' with pictures of somebody trying to clean an air filter with a toothbrush (implying that the average person is too stupid to do something as easy as change an air filter) and then they go and try to charge you $800 for a CV axle that you could replace yourself for less than $100.
Joseph_Conrad
New member
I was curious about pricing so I called the dealership in Seattle I used to take my vehicles to, I was quoted $881 using new Toyota cv axle, but he offered two other aftermarket options as well, the more expensive option was a rebuilt Toyota unit installed for about $400. That's reasonable. The service guy here in MN told me the aftermarket was only about $50 dollars less. I'm not impressed with these MN Toyota service folks.
It's not that hard of a job. I can do it in my garage in less than 2 hours working with no particular urgency. I've heard that the rebuilt units that Toyota sells aren't really that great. Not much better than the auto shop's new aftermarket ones that are really cheap or the ones that are rebuilt by somebody other than Toyota.
You'd get the best bang for your buck by getting a set of CVJ units and taking them to an independent shop for installation if you don't want to do them yourself. You'd pay $400 or less and end up with a better unit than either non-OEM option that Toyota is offering.
Brokeazzlos
New member
I ordered a oem axle from a junk yard on ebay. Aftermarket axle was binding horribly.
Paid $85 shipped
Paid $85 shipped
Repair shop wanted $670 to replace both axles with an aftermarket brand. That included $80 for 4 wheel alignment and $27 for "Shop/Enviro" or shop rags. Had to be a better way.
So I ended up repacking the existing axles with OEM boot kits. $100 for both sides plus $25 for special CV band crimpers.
It was messy but well worth not using unknown or lower grade axles. The CV joints were in excellent shape.
Oh yeah, and the tan grease goes toward the differential . . . .
Best,
- c bob
So I ended up repacking the existing axles with OEM boot kits. $100 for both sides plus $25 for special CV band crimpers.
It was messy but well worth not using unknown or lower grade axles. The CV joints were in excellent shape.
Oh yeah, and the tan grease goes toward the differential . . . .
Best,
- c bob
Resurrecting an old thread here but I was just told I need to replace both front. I just installed a lift 3/2 but the 06 I just bought had been sagging for quite some time (it’s got 200k). Anyhow it appears to me that the lift pulled on the old worn boots too much and now I’ve got this. Has this occurred with anyone else?
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cloud
Banned
Really? I did both of mine in about an hour. Once you get it up and take the wheels off there's literally one single bolt. It took about fifteen minutes to refill the diff.
The trick, I guess, it having a four foot pry bar.
Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
WhiteBoomer04
New member
This ^^^^^
This (CVJ) is the best alternative for those who just need to reboot. These boots are longer and stronger and more flexible.
(BTW - cheap CV's from auto stores are often problematic. They are weaker than OEM, often rust easily, have cheap bearings and occasionally they do not supply a new nut, c-clip, and new split pin. I have been wheeling my 4th gen from new in 04. I have seen countless aftermarket CV's break on the trail. IMO always go OEM, either new or remanuf. OEM, unless you don't use your truck offroad. Its not fun changing CV's on the trail. It holds everyone up and just frustrates yourself. I have changed CV's on trails over the years for probably a dozen people. Changing them isn't usually the problem. It's finding a flat ground to get it done!)
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