Rocker or push switches that fit dash knockouts?

Endlessblockades

Senior Member
Super boring question, I know. Search results here were mainly 5th gen-related or very old. Has anyone found snap-in switches that don't require trimming or drilling the stock plates or holes. I can make something work but (lazy) wondering if anyone has recently found an easy part to snap in the dash blanks. Looking for 3-lead rectangular rocker or push button for a set of aux fogs.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Super boring question, I know. Search results here were mainly 5th gen-related or very old. Has anyone found snap-in switches that don't require trimming or drilling the stock plates or holes. I can make something work but (lazy) wondering if anyone has recently found an easy part to snap in the dash blanks. Looking for 3-lead rectangular rocker or push button for a set of aux fogs.

Have you considered an OEM foglight stalk? it's pretty easy to wire up and not terribly hard to find
 
I had 2 of these OEM switches I installed at one point to the left of the steering wheel running various aftermarket lights. They are used on early 3rd gens (among other Toyota models) for factory Hella fog lights. It’s a rocker with an amber led. Plug & play as far as the dash knockout goes.

Toyota p/n 00550-35976
 
Have you considered an OEM foglight stalk? it's pretty easy to wire up and not terribly hard to find

Yes I have, but I believe the headlights need to be On (not just DRL) for the stalk switch to work on my 2000. I'll probably use the fogs in conjunction with the headlights 95% of the time, but I'd like the option of fog-only. The fogs came with a really nice wiring harness I'm going to use, too. I got a pair of the basic Baja Designs Squadron Sports and although their site says 4-6 weeks, they shipped next day and are made in USA.

I have a fat lip bumper in 'topaz' with factory fogs with newer Hella bulbs if anyone needs one. It's seen a bit of abuse. Cheap - SF Bay Area
 
I had 2 of these OEM switches I installed at one point to the left of the steering wheel running various aftermarket lights. They are used on early 3rd gens (among other Toyota models) for factory Hella fog lights. It’s a rocker with an amber led. Plug & play as far as the dash knockout goes.

Toyota p/n 00550-35976

Oh nice. I was thinking of hitting the junkyard for a Scion switch but that looks like the ticket. I was going to order a fuel filter anyway - thanks!
 
Oh nice. I was thinking of hitting the junkyard for a Scion switch but that looks like the ticket. I was going to order a fuel filter anyway - thanks!


I found the same OEM out in the aftermarket but forget who I bought it from. I used the part number on the old switch that failed. May be a better price.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I bought two OEM scion/camry lights that have the orange bulb. I am now trying to find some larger rocker switches for my next project with some baja designs lights, evidently some of them need on/off/on switches.
 
I bought two OEM scion/camry lights that have the orange bulb. I am now trying to find some larger rocker switches for my next project with some baja designs lights, evidently some of them need on/off/on switches.

I'm going to use the same OEM rocker for a pair of the little Baja Squadrons. The factory harness also has a basic on/off switch (round, though) with 3 spades for the switch light. Do you have a muticolor or multifunction lightbar or something that uses both positions?
 
Last edited:
Easy, get the Oznium Scion OEM style rocker switch. I use 2 of them on my 4runnerm one with the green LED and one that doesn't have an LED. They fit into the blanks and look stock.

You can see the one without an LED in this photo that I took for an unrelated project.

ZIShG7Z.jpg


I don't have any good photos of the one that I have fitted with an LED, but the listing I posted is accurate. I use it for my fog lights, no complaints. By 3 lead you mean it has 3 shovel connectors on the back (one for the LED ground)? The LED version is that.
 
Last edited:
I had 2 of these OEM switches I installed at one point to the left of the steering wheel running various aftermarket lights. They are used on early 3rd gens (among other Toyota models) for factory Hella fog lights. It’s a rocker with an amber led. Plug & play as far as the dash knockout goes.

Toyota p/n 00550-35976

I actually have a 1997 with the factory fog lights in it. I guess they an option back in the day. You have to verify they wired that relay properly, in some of those harnesses they have power to that relay all the time. instead of when the key is on thus causing a parasitic drain in that circuit.. I was thinking of templating that setup but I doubt there is enough of an interest to make sets of them
 
I actually have a 1997 with the factory fog lights in it. I guess they an option back in the day. You have to verify they wired that relay properly, in some of those harnesses they have power to that relay all the time. instead of when the key is on thus causing a parasitic drain in that circuit.. I was thinking of templating that setup but I doubt there is enough of an interest to make sets of them

My understanding is that most wiring harnesses are set up with voltage directly from the battery to the relay, and the trigger wire pin on the relay is what allows the circuit to complete when the switch is “on”. Where would the draw be coming from in that scenario? Is it more dependent on the specific relay you’re using allowing power to be consumed in a passive state? I’m not entirely sure how parasitic draw would happen. Unless power is run directly from the battery to the switch with no relay. That’s a fire hazard anyways!
 
Easy, get the Oznium Scion OEM style rocker switch. I use 2 of them on my 4runnerm one with the green LED and one that doesn't have an LED. They fit into the blanks and look stock.

You can see the one without an LED in this photo that I took for an unrelated project.

ZIShG7Z.jpg


I don't have any good photos of the one that I have fitted with an LED, but the listing I posted is accurate. I use it for my fog lights, no complaints. By 3 lead you mean it has 3 shovel connectors on the back (one for the LED ground)? The LED version is that.


What’s the picture with the -15 for?

I put a Hall Effect Amp Meter in that spot to monitor my alternator output.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My understanding is that most wiring harnesses are set up with voltage directly from the battery to the relay, and the trigger wire pin on the relay is what allows the circuit to complete when the switch is “on”. Where would the draw be coming from in that scenario? Is it more dependent on the specific relay you’re using allowing power to be consumed in a passive state? I’m not entirely sure how parasitic draw would happen. Unless power is run directly from the battery to the switch with no relay. That’s a fire hazard anyways!

I haven't looked at that circuit for a very long time. I know of one what was wired oddly if i am remembering correctly. I think it was on [MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION] wiring harness. Now this is if i am remembering correctly. If not, my mistake..:-(

I haven't looked at mine fog light harness as I haven't been working on that 4 runner for quite a long time.

Sadly, i have to change an engine in a Camry first and sale that rig off before i put my 1997 5 speed back together and its the one that has the oem early year fog lights.
 
What’s the picture with the -15 for?

I put a Hall Effect Amp Meter in that spot to monitor my alternator output.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The -15 is the outside temperature in Celsius.

The 4runners pre-1999 had a rare option for fog lights that was fitted by the dealer. They used a rocker switch in one of those cutouts. It looks a lot like the switches I mentioned, except instead of a green LED they used an orange one.

I imagine the stock harness is something like mine with a wire running through the firewall that would trigger a relay linked to the battery.

Because it requires little energy to power the relay, power provided to the relay can be done off a fuse tap in the internal fuse box. The switch is what controls the relay, once the relay is powered, the battery will be able to make a circuit through the fog lights.

I don't see how you would have parasitic draw, the relay is normally off. In fact it will automatically turn off if your fuse tap is on a circuit that automatically turns off with the engine.

When I first got my 4runner the PO had done a really sketchy setup where the switch itself passed the current that ran the fog lights. Using a relay good practice in the same way you should always have fuses on electrical work. With that setup, I could leave the fog lights on with the engine off (but that would be obvious).
 
The parasitic draw comes from the wire harness relay socket being pinned incorrectly. It put a permanent .5a draw on the battery. Swapping the two red wires fixes it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The parasitic draw comes from the wire harness relay socket being pinned incorrectly. It put a permanent .5a draw on the battery. Swapping the two red wires fixes it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you. I thought I remembered some of those could have been wired wrong...:)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
While on the subject, after searching pretty high and pretty low, I'm surprised I can't find an adapter to connect dissimilar spades so I can connect the Baja Designs (small female ends) to the Camry switch spades (larger) without crimping a few connectors and wires together. Not a big deal to do, but it would be a lot easier if there was a small male to large female spade adapter. Is this to discourage connecting different gauge wires, or am I missing some other solution? - Electrical Dummy
 

Attachments

  • Spades.jpg
    Spades.jpg
    36.7 KB · Views: 367
  • Switch.jpg
    Switch.jpg
    24.3 KB · Views: 365
Last edited:
Can always file it down. I wouldn't use adapters on some stuff (if they existed) because it's another point of failure, which is unacceptable for kill switches.

All my projects use the larger shovel connectors to keep things standard, so I've never had that issue.
 
Can always file it down. I wouldn't use adapters on some stuff (if they existed) because it's another point of failure, which is unacceptable for kill switches.

All my projects use the larger shovel connectors to keep things standard, so I've never had that issue.

Agreed - my fuel pump killswitch is super heavy duty water-resistant rubberized metal toggle with screw-together connectors. Weird that Baja used these small connectors. I think I have sheet metal snips that will do the bulk of the work and file the rest.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top