Rollin On 35"s My First Impressions...

[crazydubman]

Todd my friend, you are a genius!!! I totally didn't even think about that, I just set the uca's at 0, it didn't even occur to me to bring them forward, that helps out a ton!!! I'll do that this week

you are going to have to adjust the lower alignment points too. like bring the front in and the rear out as far as you can while getting it within spec as far as camber and toe in and out. toe you can adjust with the tie rods though so not a problem there. camber will be the tricky part. i think mine is set to -.8 degrees or something on one side and thats as close as the alignment shop could get it. with your UCA's it might be easier though.

i would personally have a shop do it. but set the upper ball joint as far forward as possible and take it in for an alignment and tell them to pull the caster as far forward as possible.

having the caster pulled forward you will also get better turn in for corners etc. plus you are extending your wheelbase a bit which will help with stability. and for that matter approach angle.

 

[Aquabear]

WOW great job man! Everytime I see another sweet lifted 4Runn it inspires me to do mine this spring- but not as high

 

[the_josh]

you are going to have to adjust the lower alignment points too. like bring the front in and the rear out as far as you can while getting it within spec as far as camber and toe in and out. toe you can adjust with the tie rods though so not a problem there. camber will be the tricky part. i think mine is set to -.8 degrees or something on one side and thats as close as the alignment shop could get it. with your UCA's it might be easier though.

i would personally have a shop do it. but set the upper ball joint as far forward as possible and take it in for an alignment and tell them to pull the caster as far forward as possible.

having the caster pulled forward you will also get better turn in for corners etc. plus you are extending your wheelbase a bit which will help with stability. and for that matter approach angle.

yeah I think I'll just adjust the ball joint as far forward as possible then let the shop do the rest.

Do you think I can adjust the balljoint with the wheel on or should I just pull it off?

 

[the_josh]

testing grounds at hollister

 

[crazydubman]

yeah I think I'll just adjust the ball joint as far forward as possible then let the shop do the rest.

Do you think I can adjust the balljoint with the wheel on or should I just pull it off?

i think you should be ok to adjust with the wheel on. although it would be easier with the wheel off as you wouldn't have all that extra weight hanging there. of course if you did it on flat ground it might be easier. how did it go at hollister with clearances?

 

[810moto]

Todd my friend, you are a genius!!! I totally didn't even think about that, I just set the uca's at 0, it didn't even occur to me to bring them forward, that helps out a ton!!! I'll do that this week

wouldn't pulling them forward be closer to the fender? seems like you would want to push them back.

 

[the_josh]

wouldn't pulling them forward be closer to the fender? seems like you would want to push them back.

pulling forward towards the sw bumper is what he is refering to

 

[snowy]

will 315/70's fit with caster that far forward?

looks great josh. i would suggest though to get those front wheels caster pulled forward as much as possible. looks like the rear of the fender is going to be a huge problem with how far back the wheels are sitting now.

look how far forward my wheels are sitting in the well

[snip]

its going to help a ton with rubbing on the body mount side.

im running the camburg arms but the Lightracing should be able to pull foward the same if not more because of the upper uniball adjustment on those.

and make sure you box in those body mounts to reinforced them when you start flexing it out. last thing you want is to have one of those tear on you....

Brilliant crazydubman! I am running a 2008 SR5 w/v8 and FT4WD with ARB front bumper, the RevTek 3/2 lift/level kit and 285/70 R17 on Procomp 17x8's. I appear to have good clearance all around after removing the front mud flaps and no other adjustments. In fact, observing the same potential to rub against body mount flange with larger tires, but now with the knowledge of the potential caster adjustment, I am considering 315/70's because it looks like another inch in radius will clear pretty easily. Questions for ya:
1. With the caster that far forward, what is the next closet thing you would rub if you went with bigger tires?
2. How come you haven't gone with 315's, or even 35's? It sure seems to me these should fit with no cutting at all, at least on a 2008.

Snowy

 

[crazydubman]

oh don't worry about the 35's they are in the works right now :lmao:

and as far as trimming. here is the current bumper trimming i have done.

as you can see the rears needed work like joshs setup

before

after

front will probably need a bit more as the front bumper just clears the 33's there with the offset and the diameter when stuff and turned just right as you can see here

 

[snowy]

ARB may fix the front bumper clearance

[snip]

front will probably need a bit more as the front bumper just clears the 33's there with the offset and the diameter when stuff and turned just right as you can see here

I am optimistic that the ARB front bumper handles the bumper clearance issue, even for 35's. The pics below are for 285/70's (32.4" actual diameter), meaning one would need about another inch in radius to support 315/70's.

 

[maddmike1127]

sick lookin ride man! best runner ive seen in a while

 

[MiniGene]

Josh, that is a NICE looking 4Runner! Also, is that your classic Mini in the background of the first pic? I'm restoring a 77. It's a slow process.

Keep up the good work on the Toyota.

 

[THEROK]

Ive had my 35" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's on for just under a week and i am very happy with my tire and size choice. they fit the wheel well nicely after some aggresive trimming, i can turn the wheel just under full lock without any rubbing, at full lock the driver side tire will start to rub on the inner Brake line guard, so i would like to install some small steering stops soon to eliminate further rubbing, the weekend after the tire install i installed the new Light Racing UCA's and new EBC Green brake pads, i also agressively chopped the body mounts and grinded down the edges, and lastly i used a dremel tool and followed the contour of the inner fender and cut out alot, ill need to go back and do a bit more panel trimming soon.

The KM2's are a little bit louder than my 33" A/T's, but its not too bad at highway speeds, the acceleration and pickup doesnt seem much different suprisingly versus the 33"s so im very happy with that. but the truck seems sooooo much higher now, i didnt do any measurements yet but its a huge difference from before, my girl is having some difficulties now getting in, so im gonna have to think of a solution, especially since i havent even moved up the sliders from after the body lift that todd helped me with!!!

i know there has also been some debate about sticking my 35X12.50x17 tire on a stock sport rim, but i am happy to report it worked, thanks to shabaka for the advice and comfort that itll be fine, i was stressing a lil bit, but its all good now

i will be testing out the truck this weekend at hollister and bringing my tools along in case i need to do any onsite trimming and so forth, so ill post up my findings...


all and all, i recommend anyone to go with 35"s they are wicked!!!!

heres some pics if you havent seen them already:
]

How is the hwy noise between the BFG ATs and the MTs now? What is the diff between the KMs and KM2s?

I want a more aggressive look than the ATs, but my truck is prettymuch an urban bruiser.

 

[Rockdawg84]

So you've been rollin on 35's for over a year now. How about an update on how they are working for you. How is the wheeling on them and did pulling the camber forward work or did you have to do a lot more trimming to get full compression?