run into trouble installing 5100

[elester12]

Hey guys,

I took the day off from work to install my shocks. i had the xres system before but ripped it all out. While installing the rear 5100's it looks like there isn't enough room for the bolt to go down on the top and tighten it after putting both the black rubber cushions that came with the 5100's.

If I dont put the black cushion washers at the top I can bolt it down. I'm a little confused.

Any suggestions?

Thanks guys

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I've installed several sets of rear shocks (no 5100s though) and never had that problem. I just used a jack to lift the axle back in place which gave enough threads to tighten it down.

 

[elester12]

I realized I left the old x-res mount on at the top.

I do have a question about the washer (right before you put the nut on) at the top of the new 5100. Is the "hump" of the washer suppose to go up or down.

 

[elester12]

actually i realized the hump goes up. How did everyone torque their rear shocks? There is NO room for a torque wrench up there

 

[empty403]

Hey guys,

I took the day off from work to install my shocks. i had the xres system before but ripped it all out. While installing the rear 5100's it looks like there isn't enough room for the bolt to go down on the top and tighten it after putting both the black rubber cushions that came with the 5100's.

If I dont put the black cushion washers at the top I can bolt it down. I'm a little confused.

Any suggestions?

Thanks guys

Problem is, the Bilstein bushings are way thicker than the factory. You have to have like 5 guys help you to get the nut on with those new 5100 bushings. I used one of the original bushings on top so I can get the bolt back on. Even when using 1 old bushing, I still had to push down with a lot of force to get the nut back on. It probably took me 20 minutes just to get the bolt on, for each side. You can always reuse the original bushings, if they're not shot.

 

[empty403]

actually i realized the hump goes up. How did everyone torque their rear shocks? There is NO room for a torque wrench up there

I had the same problem so I just tightened it so that the bolt protruded about 1/4" - about the same as factory.

 

[elester12]

update

I was able to get the bushings on by jacking up the diff which put pressure on the bushings. I purchased Crows wrenches from Sears to torque the bolts on top.

Just a note to anyone who is removing the xreas system. When you remove the rear shocks the upper mount may stay stuck on the top. I was trying to install the rear 5100's and they just wouldn't fit.

Thanks to everyone who has assisted me in the process of changing my suspension.

 

[empty403]

Elester12,
Just curious, which lift setting did you use on the front? Also, do you have the rear height assembly - I think they come with the Xreas package? Remember the rear will feel a bit bouncy/stiff for a few thousand miles. It will feel like the rear rebounds a lot faster than the front on the same bump. Mine is now balanced with the front and I noticed it was better after I towed a trailer with 2 motorcycles and that was after about 5000 miles.

 

[elester12]

Hi Empty 403,

I used the 2nd lift setting (.85 I think). I don't have the rear lift option. I hope the truck drives better! I do pull a trailer and I feel it wore the previous springs out.

 

[empty403]

Hi Empty 403,

I used the 2nd lift setting (.85 I think). I don't have the rear lift option. I hope the truck drives better! I do pull a trailer and I feel it wore the previous springs out.

I am using the same setting. Did you notice that you got closer to a 1.5" lift? I also installed airbags (Firestone RideRites) into my rear coils to prevent sagging. I did not have the XREAS before the 5100s but after my breakin of the rears it rides really nice - plush and stiff. I think it has a sensing valve which stiffens it up on rough roads/terrain. It does corner better, but I wouldn't know if it's better at cornering compared to when the XREAS was new. I think cornering was suppose to be the XREAS strong point.

 

[krupnation]

I had the same problem so I just tightened it so that the bolt protruded about 1/4" - about the same as factory.

Ditto. I did use the Bilstein bushing that came with the shocks and just tightened it down to match what it looked like stock. No need for a torque wrench.