Running 35's Checklist

blonde1boarder

blonde1boarder

New member
Hey Guys. I've decided that 35's are in my future and I want to make sure that I have an understanding of what I need to make it happen.

1) 315/75-16 tires!!!
2) 1.25'' wheel spacers for stock 16" rims
3) Power Steering Cooler
4) No trans cooler because I have a MT
5) ~ 3" lift (Tundra 5100 3rd notch and LC Coils)
6) 1.5 Body Lift so there is no rubbing on the Washer Pump/Tank
7) Lots of trimming and pounding
8) Regearing to 4.88 because it's a DD also

Just making sure I have the list so I can start collecting parts slowly
 
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You can run 315's with your current setup right now. You'll just need to hammer your pinch welds and trim the valence. Get the tires first and get them mounted up and see how much you need to hammer/trim. I haven't had any problems with my set up I have now and I'm just running 1/4" wheel spacers up front. You'd need the spidertrax spacers though if you're gonna be using the stock wheels. Ideally, you would want 4.88's but it's not necessary especially with your manual tranny. I say get the tires all mounted up first and go from there. You'd be surprised.
I'm assuming you already have a diff drop too. If not, you'll want that.
Edit: You're gonna want to ditch your rear bumper or buy an aftermarket one...
 
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I have another question for the guys running 35's. I know that some people rub on the frame rails so I'm wondering which combo would rub on the frame rails less.

1) Stock wheels with 1.25" wheel spacers
2) Stock wheels with no wheel spacers and LR upper control arms

I know that the wheel spacers force the tires further into the wells on full lock because of the increased arc radius but I don't know about the frame rail distance.
 
If you're gonna use your stock wheels, you will need those spacers regardless because you will be rubbing on the UCA so much.
 
Yes, UCA's will. But your stock OEM wheels have a 4.5" backspacing. You put a 12" wide tire on you're gonna be completely rubbing the UCA, even if you switched out your UCA's with aftermarkets. You might not even be able to get the tire on the truck.
Don't shave your UCA's, it will compromise the structural integrity.
The wheels I'm running have a 4" backspacing and I'm still running 1/4" spacers to get the tire not to rub.
 
You're pretty much going to rub frame at full lock regardless of what you do. It's really not that much work to run 35's. I don't have a body lift and just hammered the pinch weld and trimmed the front bumper. Obviously a body lift will help but it's not required by any means.

And I've got 4.30's and DD mine like 30 miles a day. I'd like to regear at some point but I just can't see spending that kind of cash right now with other things I'd like to buy first.
 
05 LTD said:
You're pretty much going to rub frame at full lock regardless of what you do. It's really not that much work to run 35's. I don't have a body lift and just hammered the pinch weld and trimmed the front bumper. Obviously a body lift will help but it's not required by any means.

And I've got 4.30's and DD mine like 30 miles a day. I'd like to regear at some point but I just can't see spending that kind of cash right now with other things I'd like to buy first.
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I've been reading that without the body lift lots of guys have the front tire hitting the windshield washer pump... I would like to keep that when I'm headed up snowboarding. You dont rub that at all?
 
I haven't yet but maybe I haven't tried hard enough yet haha. I had 35's on my 97 as well and didn't rub then either.
 
downpour11 said:
You can run 315's with your current setup right now. You'll just need to hammer your pinch welds and trim the valence. Get the tires first and get them mounted up and see how much you need to hammer/trim. I haven't had any problems with my set up I have now and I'm just running 1/4" wheel spacers up front. You'd need the spidertrax spacers though if you're gonna be using the stock wheels. Ideally, you would want 4.88's but it's not necessary especially with your manual tranny. I say get the tires all mounted up first and go from there. You'd be surprised.
I'm assuming you already have a diff drop too. If not, you'll want that.
Edit: You're gonna want to ditch your rear bumper or buy an aftermarket one...
Click to expand...

Having 35's, 5speed, and 4.10's, I will have to disagree. I am getting at least 4.88's within the next month. sick of luggin around all that extra rubber. forget ever towing ****

and PS- my washer pump was "disconnected" by my passenger tire.
 
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cordrayj1 said:
Having 35's, 5speed, and 4.10's, I will have to disagree. I am getting at least 4.88's within the next month. sick of luggin around all that extra rubber. forget ever towing ****

and PS- my washer pump was "disconnected" by my passenger tire.
Click to expand...


I have 5spd with 410's and Toyo Open country MT 35's. puttin around town I barely notice any difference going from 33's to 35's. I towed a 16' river boat when I had the 33's on and it wasn't too bad. Haven't towed with the 35's yet.
 
my sliders are welded on w no body lift. no problems at all.

you can fit them w/out body lift.

a river boat weighs how much? arent those alum?

i do about 1000mi a week . . . highway, offhighway, city, etc. low low speeds, true, not much difference. Highways/hills/towing anything remotely heavy, you're lookin at 10mpg or less. sluggish w stock gears. im not sure why we are going back and forth with this. is a freakin weak ass 3.4 V6 when you put 35's w factory gears. regardless of transmission.
 
I get about 13mpg with mine. Auto with 4.88s.

You can get 35's to fit without a bodylift it just takes a generous amount of grinding/pounding. Like stated, spacers will be required for most stock wheels. Otherwise you'll get into the front UCAs. I have a 2" body lift and my rub is pretty minimal however I do still rub on some occasions. I have my pinch weld ground as far back as I can without cutting into the cab.

I do my fare share of pretty extensive technical/hardcore wheeling though so every bit of room for flex and no rub counts.
 
blonde1boarder said:
I have another question for the guys running 35's. I know that some people rub on the frame rails so I'm wondering which combo would rub on the frame rails less.

1) Stock wheels with 1.25" wheel spacers
2) Stock wheels with no wheel spacers and LR upper control arms

I know that the wheel spacers force the tires further into the wells on full lock because of the increased arc radius but I don't know about the frame rail distance.
Click to expand...

With my 315/75r17's, 1.25" spacers, Tundra 17x8 oem wheels and LR uca's set to push thetire away from the Uca it doesn't rub the frame. One side is set at stock and it rubs the frame. This reminds me that I need to adjust it and get another alignment
 
cordrayj1 said:
my sliders are welded on w no body lift. no problems at all.

you can fit them w/out body lift.

a river boat weighs how much? arent those alum?

i do about 1000mi a week . . . highway, offhighway, city, etc. low low speeds, true, not much difference. Highways/hills/towing anything remotely heavy, you're lookin at 10mpg or less. sluggish w stock gears. im not sure why we are going back and forth with this. is a freakin weak ass 3.4 V6 when you put 35's w factory gears. regardless of transmission.
Click to expand...

I tow a 16' drift boat and heavy galvanized trailer with my 3.4, auto trans, 315 treadwrights(with wheel weigh 100lbs a piece) up mountain roads, steep boat launches and gnarly off-road "launches" with no problems. Its been almost a year on stock gears and I see 14-15mpg towing and 17-18 without towing. I am re-gearing to 4:88's because
its my daily driver now but with proper maintence and keeping everything maintained you can see decent mph.
 
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