Running Wires: Roof Mounted GPS Antenna + Lic Plate Back-up Camera

[Randyman...]

Hello all,

I'll be ripping apart my '13 SR5 4x4's interior over the next 5-6 days to get the Stereo Installation going.

I'll need to run wires for a roof-mounted GPS Antenna for my Alpine INA-W910. I'm pondering looking into yanking the stock XM Radio Antenna towards the rear of the roof and retrofitting the GPS antenna there. Do you think this feasible? I'm not going to have the GPS antenna sitting on my Dash - that's a given! I don't think going through the Moonroof is an option, either (ghetto).

How does the stock XM antenna "terminate"? Is it inductive (no hole like an old Car Cell Phone Antenna) or is there actually a wire that runs through the roof's sheet metal to the stock XM antenna? If I do run a wire through the roof - what's the best way to guaruntee a water-tight seal? I assume 100% silicone applied to squeaky-clean surfaces will do - but I don't want to bank on my ASSumptions...

In addition, I'll be running the Back-up Camera's wires (will be mounted on the license plate frame with the Alpine Metal Lic Plate Bracket). I'm seriously hoping I'll be able to snake the wire through the rear-hatch's existing loom (upper driver's side of the rear hatch - seems to have enough room). Any input on removing all of the rear-hatch trim? And will I be able to physically access the inside where the loom terminates by the window (to pull the wire through to the Lic plate area)? Any thoughts on the best way to pass the wire through the rear-hatch sheet metal to the exterior License Plate Area (once I get the wire inside the rear-hatch via the loom)?

Has anyone else done these types of wiring projects on a 5th Gen - and do you have any pointers before I'm neck-deep in trim parts sprawled about my garage? Removing the headliner should be fun

I have a trim removal toolkit on the way to help lessen any marring of the parts as I remove them. I've done this too many times to count with my old '87 T4R and '99 Taco (for sound deadening and wire routing) - but this is my first attempt in a more modern car - and this is my first brand-new vehicle ever! Thus my cautionary proceedings and the reason for this post...

One last Q - How do the "2nd Row Seat Recliner Lever" trim pieces come off? I can't seem to pop them off - but I haven't put too much force into them just yet.

Thanks!!! :cheers:

 

[SC0TT]

I wouldn't bother mounting the GPS antenna on the roof, really isn't necessary. There's a metal plate just underneath the dash, behind the deck that is perfect for mounting the antenna with some double sided tape. I have mine placed there and never had any signal issues.

 

[Randyman...]

Thanks SC0TT! I'll be yanking the stock radio first thing on Wednesday - I'll look into the plate you mentioned. Sounds too easy!

Any input on the Backup Camera and wire routing? This seems to be much more involved, and I'd like some re-assurance before I blindly go yanking the interior apart as I "learn" my new vehicle by dismantling and re-assembling it...

:driving:

 

[harper7]

Thanks SC0TT! I'll be yanking the stock radio first thing on Wednesday - I'll look into the plate you mentioned. Sounds too easy!

Any input on the Backup Camera and wire routing? This seems to be much more involved, and I'd like some re-assurance before I blindly go yanking the interior apart as I "learn" my new vehicle by dismantling and re-assembling it...

:driving:

See if you can use the existing bu camera wiring unless your going to run 2 cameras . Not sure if the wiring diagrams are the same for 13's with entune and might be hard to find.Here's Kingpins write-up and how alot of us hooked up aftermarket HU's. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/66190-kingpins-new-truck-2.html#post795054

If you are going to run wires to the back,then there are channels under the door scuff plates that will get you back past the 2nd row seats . Then follow the wiring under the panels that go all the way to the back.

 

[Randyman...]

Thanks for your reply, harper7. The Alpine camera I'm using has a special cable for "direct connection" to the W910 - not a standard composite video cable. However, I'm not totally against swapping cameras to use one that will work with standard composite video and tap into the factory wire. I'll look into that!

It seems like running the camera cable through the rear-hatch loom and then snaking it down the rear-hatch (next to the rear window) will be quite fun

I already ran the 1/0 power cable down the passenger side "scuff plates" (used the factory firewall grommet that contains the rear-window washer line - PLENTY of room for a clean and safe 1/0 run! ). I planned on running the RCA's, Ai-NET cable and Optical cables down the center console area - so I'll likely run the camera wire there, too (I foresee noise in the video if I run the camera wire parallel to the 1/0 wire) and sneak into the rear-side-panel behind the rear seat.

I'm checking out Kingpin's thread for more info now. My truck only has the back-up radar sensors, not the factory rear camera - so I'll have to figure out the camera-end of things as well...

Thanks again for the tips!!! :bigok:

 

[Randyman...]

Thursday update: I found the "shelf" you mentioned for the GPS Antenna - Basically the Defrost Vent duct where it "Y's" together behind the MPG/Range/Compass thingy. I had to place it a little to the left as the central "y" plateau wasn't wide and flat enough for the adhesive metal base I had.

I cleaned it with denatured alcohol, and the adhesive metal base stuck like a charm! I have large hands - so it was a very tight squeeze for me.

The GPS receiver ends up only 1"-2" from the windshield and only has the thin plastic dash material covering it - so I'm thinking you are correct that it will work just as well as having it on-top of the dash or on the roof. Thanks for the tip - this was MUCH easier than trying to mount it on the roof! :frog:

I also utilized my truck's un-used Auto-headlight sensor plug at the center of the dash to run my Radar Detector wire to the fuse-box. Looks much better now!

I ran all of the other Speaker/RCA/Ai-Net/Optical/Remote Control wires down the console and under the carpet to behind the rear seats (had to remove F/R passenger seats and the entire console!). I also ran the camera cable back there for now. I might try to attempt running it the rest of the way tomorrow.

I plan on adding some Dynamat Extreme to the rear cargo area before the Box and Amp Rack goes in, and if I'm going to remove the rear-trim panels on one side to run the camera wire, I might as well go ahead and remove both sides and deaden up there as well...

I'll post some pics at some point. I've been snapping a few here and there...

Rock on :cheers:

 

[Jtraskell]

Antman, a little competition here? Randyman, good job on your mods, but, "I have large hands - so it was a very tight squeeze for me.", No bragging allowed on this forum!

Be safe.

 

[hurttin]

Rear Camera wiring

Randyman, I did the exact thing with my Pioneer camera and you can run it through the rear hatch just as you are planning. It took a little time and patience but works out just fine as that is how they do the OEM cameras.

Have fun...Andy

 

[Antman]

Antman, a little competition here?

Be safe.

Plenty of people on here that completely blow me off the map! All part of the fun. :

Good luck with your project Randyman, so far so good. :bigok:

If you do end up running new wires inside the rear hatch make sure you follow the factory wire routing carefully. There is zero room inside there when the rear window is rolled down.

A/M

 

[Jtraskell]

Truth.....

 

[Randyman...]

Thanks all! I'm honored to even be mentioned in the same breath as Antman! I've only been on this forum a few weeks, and his legacy is immediately obvious. I can't touch most of his skills, but I do have a deep love of Audio in the Car, Home, and Studio. It's what drives me

A few updates: The GPS Antenna is working splendidly in the dash "shelf" - I'm getting strong reception across most satellites! So much easier than being a bone-head and trying to roof-mount it for no reason! :bash: Thanks again for clearing that up for me, SC0TT!

Since I already have the special "Direct Wire" Camera Wire ran to the backseat area, I was able to play with alternative camera placement by the trailer hitch. It seems like this will actually work better WRT being able to see directly under the truck, but still allows nice all-around visibility. I'm going to look into that later, and possibly avoid running the wire into the rear-hatch/license plate altogether! I'll still swap on the sleek Alpine black "brushed aluminum" License Plate Holder in place of the Chrome Dealership License Plate Trim...

Regardless - I'll still be removing the cargo-area upper/lower trim panels to install some Dynamat back there and to complete the 1/0 Wire run (need to run it out right behind the passenger rear seat - will have to cut a small passage with a Dremel). I had my Installer buddy help me snap-off the Rear-Seat Recliner Lever assemblies so I can remove those panels. Man - those boogers were ON THERE GOOD!!! I wasn't willing to force them any more than I already had - and they simply weren't budging for me. My buddy had them off in 2 minutes flat! :bash:

I'll post some pics once I get to a good point of the install. I still have through Monday until I have to go back to work - and I'm sure I'll be buried in trim parts, wires, deadening, woodwork and upholstery until then!!!

 

[Randyman...]

Updates! PICS!!! :guitar2:

The GPS Antenna is rock solid. Yay! I was initially pessimistic about the anticipated performance from the Apline INA-W910's GPS coming from a few dedicated Garmin units, but so far it seems to hold its own - and I LOVE being able to remove my existing Garmin GPS from the windshield! (Already have my Radar on the dash - might go with an "installed/stealth" Radar soon)

I decided to "cop out" (just slightly) on the Rear-View Camera mounting. I had already run the wire down the console and behind the rear-seats, and had the Alpine Receiver installed, so I played around with alternative camera mounting locations by the Trailer Hitch (means not running wires to and through the rear hatch!!!). Well, I had no problems with the visibility of the trailer-hitch mounted camera!

I had the cargo-area side panels all ripped out for Dynamat, so I was able to run the camera wire from behind the rear-seat to the passenger side rear-quarter panel, and out the floor grommet where the rear-inverter's +12V feed comes in. The camera is mounted just above the trailer hitch using the supplied permanent adhesive. The camera's pigtail connector is sealed with waterproof heat-shrink since it is exposed to the elements (but securely tucked under the truck). Seems like it won't budge (see pics below).

I was still looking for an easy way to tap into the +12v reverse trigger (to get the Head Unit to switch to the camera when in shifted into reverse) - but all I could find for my SR5 was the Rear-View Mirror tap that Kingpin posted. I was not interested in running a wire down the A-Pillar for this function.

Then, Arterisk's post indicated there might be some luck tapping into the fuse box itself. Well, low and behold - the 10A Trailer Reverse Fuse and regular 10A Reverse Fuse BOTH offer a +12v reverse trigger! I used one of the add-a-circuit ATM fuse taps, and all was well (used one of those for my hard-wired 8500 x50 radar, too : )


Also - I found a nice little way to tap into the factory harness for the Steering Wheel Controls W/O cutting any factory wires or doing any splicing on the factory harness! I found that an ATX PC's 3-pin fan header had the same pin dimensions AND spacing as this stock Plug - and luckily all 3 of the factory terminals were adjacent - and the fan wire just happens to have 3 conductors! I had to mod the connector with a Dremel and wire up a resistor for one of the wires for the PAC adapter, but it worked like a charm!!!


Pics!


Rear Camera Mount:

Radio Steering-Wheel Adapter Wiring Install (Modified ATX PC Fan Header):

Some generic install Pics for your enjoyment:

Thanks for all of the valuable input thus far. Enjoy!!! :drummer:

 

[Antman]

Nice install so far!

Please explain what you did with the steering wheel controls. Does that white plug extend to the steering wheel buttons and where is it located (plug designation if you have it- save me some work pleeeease)?

I hope so!

- I may just have a new mod in the works(and it'll be a really cool one too :hiding if that's the case! I wasn't sure how I was going to access the wheel controls easily.:bravo:

Keep up the good work!

 

[Randyman...]

Thanks for your kind words, Mr Antman

I'm using a PAC SWI-RC adapter. It needs to tap into three adjacent wires on one of the factory harnesses (not the main power/speaker plug). The ATX Computer fan header (male end) will plug directly into the harness for these 3 wires! You will need to add a 560 Ohm resistor to one of the wires per the PAC instructions (linked below).

You can get something like this and trim up one of the male ends to expose the pins (otherwise the plastic housing would prevent it from sliding into the factory harness).

PAC offers a great guide for vehicle specific and radio specific installs:
iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

I plugged in my Vehicle and Radio info, followed the instructions, and it worked like a charm! You can see the factory harness I tapped into in the 3rd pic in my previous post (has the PAC instructions pictured as well)...

Let me know if you have any Q's. I have yet to cut or splice a single factory connection (can remove EVERYTHING and be 100% stock) - and my install is getting pretty serious at this point . The "worst" I've done is run the 1/0 through the hood grommet, and run the camera wire out the cargo-area grommet (one that the rear-inverter uses). I obviously had to slice the grommets to get the wires through, but that's it...

When it comes to the dash speakers and front doors - I might do a bit more "damage" as I'm putting 9" Morel Elate Midbass drivers in the doors and 4" Morel Integra Ovation XO "point-source" drivers in the dash! The doors are going to get sealed and deadened like crazy, and the dash will obviously need some mods to fit the 4" point-source drivers......

 

[Antman]

Ah. Don't know if I can do what I'm thinking. PM coming your way in a few! Where exactly is that white plug from- the radio harness?

 

[Randyman...]

It's the 20-Pin Radio Connector that has the smaller gauge wires (looks like 28-26 AWG wires opposed to the Power harness which has 16-20AWG wires). Pins 6, 7 & 8.