Rust, win or lose, it's up to you.

[MN4runnerman]

Yea, looking at the MSDS it's just repackaged from Autochem, a Canadian company. What's even more interesting is if you look at the MSDS, you'll notice this stuff is mostly vegetable oil so if anything, $35 is overpriced. I'm really curious what sort of additive they add to the vegetable oil to make it a good rust inhibitor. This stuff actually smells very good.

I'm applying it with an underbody spray gun (you'll need an air compressor). Napa autobody has the gun, or any auto parts store.

In case anyone is wondering what an underbody spray gun is. https://www.semproducts.com/product/economy-coating-gun/gun

 

[Mark_BC]

Canadian Tire has Rust Cure 3000, basically the same thing in a spray can.

 

[MN4runnerman]

The MSDS calls the other ingredient hydrocarbon oil, which is pretty fricken vague. But I’m sure if you mixed vegetable oil with mineral oil you might get close. [MENTION=90778]nobb[/MENTION] What is the consistency of this stuff?

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Back in 1993 my dad bought a brand new first year Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm very much like him, I keep everything clean and shiny at all times and I am paranoid about rust. When he washed his Jeep, he always used the spray on tire shine. He sprayed the tires, wheel wells, axles, suspension, unibody, everything was coated with it. He sold it in 2005 with 150K miles on it and next to no surface rust. Jeep spent it's life on Long Island NY where we use enough salt every time it snows to cover us for 12 storms. It works, I say that from seeing it. I do the same thing on my tires when wheel wells just because I loke how it looks. Rather than using it under the truck every wash, the week I bought my 4R I got under it with 5 cans of Wurth undercoating and 5 cans of black Rustoleum spray paint. Every inch of the frame, suspension, wheel wells, floors, everything is either undercoated or painted. I just reapplied paint one year later just because why not. I intend to do this at least once a year for as long as I own it. It's a 2016 so not old at all and I only have just shy of 9K miles on it but as of now there isn't a spec of rust on anything.

This is the undercoating I used

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/w-8...leProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE#.Wpi4iGxy7IU

I haven't done anything INSIDE the frame yet but I do intend to get in there, just not sure what to use yet. Was thinking used engine oil in a weed killer spray bottle from Lowes or Home Depot. I work for a truck shop so I have more than enough waste 15-40 engine oil mixed with AW32 hydraulic oil mixed with 80-90 gear oil at all times. Who knows what that mixture equates to but I'm sure it will do the trick.

 

[MN4runnerman]

I haven't done anything INSIDE the frame yet but I do intend to get in there, just not sure what to use yet. Was thinking used engine oil in a weed killer spray bottle from Lowes or Home Depot. I work for a truck shop so I have more than enough waste 15-40 engine oil mixed with AW32 hydraulic oil mixed with 80-90 gear oil at all times. Who knows what that mixture equates to but I'm sure it will do the trick.

Use this for the inside of the frame. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...-Preventer-Spray/?N=5002385+3290694628&rt=rud

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Use this for the inside of the frame. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...-Preventer-Spray/?N=5002385+3290694628&rt=rud

Not bad and pretty inexpensive.

 

[OldRigNewParts]

I’ve always understood WD40 to be very temporary, and can sometimes lead to rubber parts breaking down prematurely. I’ve been using a product that Boeing developed internally to protect airplane parts. It’s called Boeshield T-9 and so far it seems to be working great! I basically just spray it on everything under the hood, front and rear suspension and axles, entire undercarriage, bumpers, and even my rack. Let it soak in for about a day, then wipe off the extra. I also use Fluid Film with their fancy wand for getting inside the frame rails and in the doors. The T-9 stuff is legit, I figured if Boeing can trust it on a $30M airplane, it should work fine on my 20 year old 4Runner.

 

[kolelt]

Be cautious spraying the wax into cavities. Make sure to not clog up the drain holes. Especially in doors and rocker panels.

Remember, your 2 front sunroof drain tubes. Drain water into your rocker panels. Than the water drains through the pinch welds. Stupid design if you ask me. Probably why some 4runners have bad rocker panels. Anyways, if you remove the step trim. And decide to spray wax like fluid film. Make sure you
Unclog the drain holes in the rocker panels. Or water will sit there like a pool.

Also, Eastwood makes a very nice product. Called something like heavy duty grease or something. It’s basically like fluid film. But thin and very very sticky. I got it on my fingers. And it was hard to get it of

 

[m0ist]

Here's what I do when I do an oil change:

Always use a decent spray bottle otherwise it will leak and make a huge mess. With a decent spray bottle it goes on neat, and won't drip everywhere. Use a rag to wipe it down after you spray.

I never had a problem with it dripping or making a mess. You just have to be careful. This does not make any severe environmental impact, as you only end up using a couple of ounces of oil for the entire frame (and will not drip if you do it correctly). Some people add sand and spray it down again, but I have found just plain oil works great.

 

[dogtail]

Every time i knee it would snow here in NJ. I would always grab few cans of wd40 and spray the rocker panels, back wheel well, small cracks and anywhere I could. Even if it’s a little bit of protection. However. My whole undercarriage is sprayed with fluid film.

Anything is better than nothing, that is for sure.

For a little more money, you can find better RP's though is my general point.

You west coast guys have it so good! Rust is a *****!

I agree, but what about Fluid Film swelling anything rubber like bushings and gaskets? I thought I read LPS 3 doesn't. This guy in this Youtube video does a great test on different tests of Fluid Film, one thing he found out its not good to wash the bottom of your truck in Winter, same as I've found out on my 4runner Winter treatment. He also found out it wrecks door gaskets, so you want to stay clear of those for sure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4npPOrVtjyc

 

[thegipper]

Just for grins, I'll do my own little test and report back here. I'll apply each of the RPs I have on some mild steel and mist them everyday (once per day) with a salt water solution. I'll also have a untreated control piece.

Here is what I have to test:

WD40
LPS 2
LPS 3
motor oil
Fluid film (don't have any but I'll stop and buy some)
ATF
Cooking spray

I have so much crap in my garage I may have a few others I can test too.

 

[Mark_BC]

Just for grins, I'll do my own little test and report back here. I'll apply each of the RPs I have on some mild steel and mist them everyday (once per day) with a water salt solution. I'll also have a untreated control piece.

Here is what I have to test:

WD40
LPS 2
LPS 3
motor oil
Fluid film (don't have any but I'll stop and buy some)
ATF

I have so much crap in my garage I may have a few others I can test too.

Try canola oil too, or some of that spray can cooking oil.

 

[thegipper]

Try canola oil too, or some of that spray can cooking oil.

I'll add that to the list. I actually use cooking spray to lube brass for reloading, it works great.

I have 10, four inch round discs of mild steel (7ga, cold rolled CQ) that I will apply the RP's to.

Instead of cluttering up this thread, I'll make a new one once I get the testing started.

 

[raKnizek]

I like the idea of a rust sticky. Just to get thoughts together in one place. I had great success with Fluid Film.

My situation was as follows:

- Bought the truck in SC rust free.
- Applied FF in SC as I knew id be moving back to NY and had no choice but to drive in the snow. I was only able to use the spray cans but I was very liberal with it on the frame. Also used it sparingly on pinch welds and bottoms of doors (wiped this off after winter).
- Used self serve car wash as normal on body and would just use the low pressure water to rinse the frame (water that came out without squeezing the handle). High pressure may strip away the FF.
- I have a winter beater now so it only saw the one winter but the only negative I experienced, as mentioned, was the oily residue left by the FF. Its mostly gone at this point over a year later. No rust.


Some other rust tips that come to mind:

- Spray up into the back side of the wheel wells. As if your pointing the hose back at your face, but in the wheel well. Stuff collects up there. Most people just tend to shoot the visible part of the wheel liner.
- Stick a hose in your frame rails from the rear and let it run for a bit to clear anything out

Cheers!

 

[T4R2014]

one thing he found out its not good to wash the bottom of your truck in Winter, same as I've found out on my 4runner Winter treatment.

Partially correct. He said pressure of the rinse has a lot to do with it. A pressure washer can remove the caked oily mess that protects, while garden hose pressure would remove a light layer. Still need to wash the vehicle to keep things clean where dirt can collect. Definitely a lot of strategy to this.

 

[T4R2014]

Some other rust tips that come to mind:

- Spray up into the back side of the wheel wells. As if your pointing the hose back at your face, but in the wheel well. Stuff collects up there. Most people just tend to shoot the visible part of the wheel liner.

^^^^

I've been doing this since 2008. Remove the fender flare if you have the black ones. This is a truck driven 3000 miles in a year on the road strictly, and yet there is always a caked buildup of dirt on that fender lip.

 

[ToyotaBrah]

Solid advice in this thread. Cosigned on the sticky.

On the topic of those car wash bays, be mindful that most, if not all, will recycle water to meet state and federal regulations.

Recycled water in winter can contain higher amounts of salt since most people are washing their cars off of the salt and muck. In summer, I don't see it as much of a problem since little to no salt will be on cars. I'm sure there are other factors that affect the quality of the water like the filters being used and the ratio of tap water to recycled water used. Just something to keep in mind next time you're at the wash.

Now, the spot-free rinse cycle apparently does not contain any salt and uses un-recycled water since the whole point of it is to leave a finish free of any hard water marks.

That is what I have been doing at the car wash. I leave it on the spot free and go to town on the body and undercarriage. And to boot, the spot-free cycle is low pressure so it doesn't remove the Fluid film application.

 

[Mark_BC]

- Spray up into the back side of the wheel wells. As if your pointing the hose back at your face, but in the wheel well. Stuff collects up there. Most people just tend to shoot the visible part of the wheel liner.

Cheers!

Don't forget to open your front doors, and shove the hose in the bottom near where the hinge is. There is a fender pocket there that collects gunk.

 

[raKnizek]

Solid advice in this thread. Cosigned on the sticky.

On the topic of those car wash bays, be mindful that most, if not all, will recycle water to meet state and federal regulations.

Recycled water in winter can contain higher amounts of salt since most people are washing their cars off of the salt and muck. In summer, I don't see it as much of a problem since little to no salt will be on cars. I'm sure there are other factors that affect the quality of the water like the filters being used and the ratio of tap water to recycled water used. Just something to keep in mind next time you're at the wash.

Now, the spot-free rinse cycle apparently does not contain any salt and uses un-recycled water since the whole point of it is to leave a finish free of any hard water marks.

That is what I have been doing at the car wash. I leave it on the spot free and go to town on the body and undercarriage. And to boot, the spot-free cycle is low pressure so it doesn't remove the Fluid film application.

Wow I have been using these things for ages and I never knew that. Thanks for sharing! The one I currently use does not have spot free option so I may have to find a new place.

 

[Scramble]

Subscribed, As an original owner of a 99 that has spent it's whole life in NY, I've kept rust at bay with frequent automatic car washes after every snow storm. I've never used any FF or similar but I wish I had. My truck is in better shape than most & didn't think about rinsing out the frame rails until 2015. I had dirt, mud, salt & brine in there right up against the lower control arm mounts. My frame is not rotted out but is thin is back there & I was able to poke one hole on the passenger side.

Last summer I did an e-locker axle swap & while the entire rear suspension was out I started doing rust repairs. Wire wheeling the surface rust, spraying Eastwood rust encapsulator & internal frame coating & top coating with VHT Chassis Black. I've only got the rear of the truck done & it's been sitting in my garage all winter but will continue again when it gets warmer out. After completion I will look into spraying with FF or similar.