Salvage and rust clean up

[TrexRunnerGirl]

I am beginning to undertake the body-on rust scaling and preventative measures. I don't have a lift or access to one so that makes this challenging a bit.

Q1 - Here is my rear diff - this is salvageable right? grind out/away the rust and coat with reformer and por15 best option?

Q2 - for rusted bolts, etc. what do you use to loosen then up until one must cut them out with a plasma torch or something? WD40 doesn't cut it.

Been grinding with a screwdriver attached steel wheel but think I need to switch to something different for more surface area. The parts I have done it appears to be surface rust.
Q3 - Angle grinder with a steel pad??


I am not giving up on this truck at this stage, but I know there are parts that need replaced in this pic due to rust but until I figure out what they are and when I can get that done, they will have to stay and be rust reformed.

Just feeling a little frustrated because I want a nice clean frame like the Cali people have. Pipe dreams are real!

 

[2ndhandyotaman]

I love reading your threads, you have a great attitude towards tackling new jobs ! Rust penetrating fluids... there's as many answers to that question as there are products to try. I was shown a home made solution that I've been using for the past 15 years with great results. It's a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. ( any type of ATF should work, I use dextron IV because that's what I keep on hand )

Mix it up and apply with a cheap trigger spray bottle, like the ones you get at Home Depot for $3. You have to constantly shake it up to keep it mixed, and it's a bit messy but it does a great job of soaking into crevices.

If you have access to the bolt/fastener, you can soak it with the mix then heat it up with a MAPP cylinder, just be careful where you point the flame so as not to burn your rig to the ground.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

ZEP45 is a great product for penetrating and freeing up rusted bolts. Blows away everything I've tried so far.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEP-45-DUA...+45+dual+force&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0

 

[dogtail]

A heavy seasonal full spectrum coating of RP covering everything should stop the progression if done properly. Even if you don't have time to clean up and repaint it all, douse it even over the rust, just RP it like a glazed doughnut for a full barrier. Remember frames, rockers, doors and hatches rot from inside. Don't wash the undercarriage, especially high pressure car wash, it will take the RP off.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Ah and don't forget anti seize on every single bolt you touch. Will make life much easier in the future.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

Thanks 2ndhandyotaman! I am glad to be tolerated here for my constant questions and 'Help Needed' things. But I'm learning!

Now - ATF is auto trans fluid?

I'm devoting the weekend to this belly work and off to Harbor Freight I go then the shooting range for pew-pew and beer after. Marines like to reward theirselves with beer or promises thereof. LOL

 

[heat]

Liquid Wrench FTW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Liquid Wrench FTW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

That's what I thought, thought the same about PB at one time too. Then a couple months ago I got samples of the ZEP 45 and that's now the only thing I keep in my shop. Try it, you'll be sold on it right away. Best buying in bulk to keep costs down, it's not cheap but goes a long way.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

You're going to want to be real careful grinding or descaling that dif. That is somewhat thin metal and you could very well put a hole in it then you'll have opened up a real can of worms. Hard to tell from the pic but if you could get a closer shot, I could tell how bad it is.
Also, if you haven' t already, try to really clean out the frame rails by flushing water in at several spots. Start at the back where it's wide open. If you have a pressure washer that might move things a little more. Two things you want to accomplish here is to get out all the "stuff" that would clog the frame hole drains (really needs a drain in front of the rear lower control mounts) and to see what kind of rust you can flush out (the bigger the rust chunks the greater the problem (and panic) JK about the panic but the rust problem is no joke on these trucks and looking at that one picture of yours, you've got some work to do.

 

[heat]

good to know, I've used and liked other zep products

 

[2ndhandyotaman]

Thanks 2ndhandyotaman! I am glad to be tolerated here for my constant questions and 'Help Needed' things. But I'm learning!

Now - ATF is auto trans fluid?

I'm devoting the weekend to this belly work and off to Harbor Freight I go then the shooting range for pew-pew and beer after. Marines like to reward theirselves with beer or promises thereof. LOL

ATF = auto tranny juice. Your questions are as straight forward as anyone elses, including mine. No need to feel like you're "tolerated", it seems like a great group of active forum members in here that make everyone feel welcome.

Ahhh, memories of the beer garden outside of the squad bay....:cheers:

 

[96RedRunner]

The ATF/Acetone is a winner it works. Ospho for rust conversion prevention is what I like to use on bare rusted metal you can get it at Ace.

 

[Scramble]

First off that pic is too small. Upload a larger one & zoom in more.

Second no screwdriver! Buy an assorted kit of wire wheels that attach to a drill, plus different length & width wire brushes. It really helps to have a 1" body lift to get to the top of the frame.

Soak all reusable nuts, bolts & washers in Evaporust & use anti-seize when you replace everything.

 

[Scramble]

Get your paints & brushes ready! POR15 or Eastwood rust converter both dry quickly so you have to work fast. Thats hard for me because I like to take my time. Also use a little at a time in an old soup of coffee can. Leaving the product can open will ruin it quickly.
Buy pints or quarts & brush on, much cheaper in the long run over spay cans. Use the 360* tube spray nozzles to get into the frame & nooks & crannies of the cross members & places that brushes wont reach.

It def helps to remove the axle, springs, shocks etc.

 

[96RedRunner]

It def helps to remove the axle, springs, shocks etc.

Or body off frame, flip body on side.


Fine clean up job Scramble!!

I feel for you guys that still live in the rust belt.

 

[Scramble]

Forget about doing this in a weekend. To do it right takes many hours.
I did a few hrs every weekend for 2 months & have only completed from the LCA mounts back. Work in smalls sections & do it right otherwise the time you did spend will be wasted. I dont have my lift set up yet & I was doing this on my back too. I used two old queen size bed pillows to prop my neck up while I was working. I also recommend some percocets & good music to hum you along. ;-)

I also had to work on the body because the spot welds were starting to rust.

You can see some of the floor below. I wire wheeled the rust off & sprayed 2 coats of Eastwood Grey rust converter. No top coat because I'm never driving this in the salt again.

 

[Scramble]

Or body off frame, flip body on side.


Fine clean up job Scramble!!

I feel for you guys that still live in the rust belt.

Yea, I'm gonna ask Santa for a rotisserie for Christmas! LOL

Thank you, really it sucks, this is what I was doing last Sept & Oct instead of adding sliders & a S/C. No sense modding a truck that's rusting away.

This truck will never see another winter. My Limited from TN will get Fluid filmed before the winter & should stay good forever. I checked to whole frame on that truck & there's no rust at all internally. :banana:

 

[96RedRunner]

Forget about doing this in a weekend. To do it right takes many hours.

It's what I call labor of love, lol. If I had to I'd do it to a 3rd Gen.

I got my fill of doing it like you are in high school for cash.
My dad and buddy liked redoing mid sixty Lincoln Continetals, T-Birds, Stangs.
Soda blasters make it so much easier, gotta love new tech.

The 01 I bought 3-17 was from Memphis, 96 bought 5-2k Jacksonville FL zero rust.
The good is I live 4 hr south of Memphis.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

Scramble that is an excellent job!
I know you are right about it taking months so I'm starting with getting the big stuff off. Changing my game to one section at a time. it will keep my mind off going to buy a nice blue 05 I found along with a couple of other 3rd gen and an older Pathfinder (whose underbelly is in better shape than mine). friggin working dog brain - always keep it busy or trouble happens. :tea:

Someone last night mentioned a Soda Blaster so I will check that out again at HF.

for the internal of the frame, no power washer so a jet spray from a hose should work to see what's in there or not I hope.

When I go to do the inside coating is that just a hand pump with a long hose/tube with a 360 spray nozzle? I watched the fluid film youtube application but don't really want to buy that whole kit unless I need to.

has anyone ever done or heard of Rust Defence on their truck/car? there's a place here that either sells or applies it.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

Scramble - here it is blown up. This is actually the worst places on the truck. besides the skid plate under the gas tank - you can kinda see in the pic. I'm trying to get that off so I can steel it and paint it up too.