Scary Dealer Maintenance Story

keithsnell

New member
Took my 2010 Trail in for an oil change today at 30K miles. Since the dealer had replaced the engine air filter and cabin filter at 25K, and almost all the other 30K maintenance items were "inspection" type items, I specifically asked for just an oil change and lube the propeller shaft. (Much less expensive than just specifying the 30K maintenance.)

I made sure the service advisor put "lube propeller shaft" on the ticket, even though he said "we lube all zerk fittings with each oil change." I was surprised when the maintenance was done and the ticket said "Propeller shaft lube N/A." When I asked why it wasn't done the service advisor said the tech marked it N/A because the propeller shaft was "sealed" and there were no Zerk fittings. I said "are you sure? The owner's manual specifically calls for lubing the propeller shaft at 30K?" He said "Sometimes the owner's manuals have errors because they just "cut and paste" from one manual to the next."

I drove the vehicle home, crawled underneath with a flashlight and confirmed that 1) the vehicle actually did have zerk fittings on the propeller shaft (specifically on the slip yolk and spiders), and that 2) they obviously hadn't been touched due to the presence of a light coating of mud on the fittings. I drove the vehicle back to the dealer, showed the service advisor pictures of the zerk fittings and the page from the service manual showing the location of the fittings. To give him credit, he sent the vehicle back to the express lube shop and they had a "training session" with "all the guys" to show them where the zerk fittings were. And the Service Advisor comped the price of the oil change and lube. The scary thing is this is a 2010, and I got the distinct impression that they really did believe that the drive shaft on the 4runner was "sealed" and didn't require lubing. Have they been skipping the lube on all the 4runners that came through their shop since 2010??

I've had many other similar experiences with this same dealer, so much so that I almost didn't buy a Toyota when it came time to replace my '96 4runner. The last time I took my 2010 in for an oil change, the ticket said they had used conventional oil instead of synthetic. The service advisor said, "no problem" and went out the the vehicle and replaced the sticker on the windshield with one that said they used 0-20 synthetic. Problem fixed!??

I'd love to find a qualified independent mechanic in the Wichita area if anyone can suggest a mechanic they trust.
 
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Unfortunately, this is nothing new. And this applies to ALL service and repair facilities, not just dealers.

That's why I tell people, "If you find someone that is competent and does great work with vehicles, don't ever leave them. If they relocate to another shop/dealership, follow them if you can." Sometimes, the person to follow is a good service writer. Because he/she can communicate well with their service team.
 
Have they been skipping the lube on all the 4runners that came through their shop since 2010??
More like skipping lube on everything that's been through their shop, since forever, just like pretty much every other shop.

That's an expensive oil change to comp, hope they used synthetic 0w20 :doh:
 
Unless you live in an apartment complex or one of those "can't do this - can't do that" gated communities, you could easily change your own oil and shoot grease into the zerk fittings yourself.

I know the 2010 is 5th Gen, but when did Toyota switch it's requirements to 0W-20? I'll have to look it up.

Update - yep - 2010 4 Runners owners manual calls for 0W-20
 
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Unfortunately, this is nothing new. And this applies to ALL service and repair facilities, not just dealers.

That's why I tell people, "If you find someone that is competent and does great work with vehicles, don't ever leave them. If they relocate to another shop/dealership, follow them if you can." Sometimes, the person to follow is a good service writer. Because he/she can communicate well with their service team.


Amen! :pray2:
 
I drove the vehicle back to the dealer, showed the service advisor...and they had a "training session" with "all the guys" to show them where the zerk fittings were. And the Service Advisor comped...

If more consumers acted like this we would have fewer garbage service departments.

Too often all people want to do is ***** without actually doing anything else, or even bothering to go back and see that it not only be done correctly this time but in future visits as well.
 
If more consumers acted like this we would have fewer garbage service departments.

Good service depts. are the result of a concerned owner who has the presence of mind to hire a service mgr. who shares his views about quality customer service. That service mgr. will hire the same kind of people and ensure they are properly trained.

Any shop that has to have an impromptu "training session" for something like this is poorly managed and more than likely owned by just another money-whore bandit.
 
Unless you live in an apartment complex or one of those "can't do this - can't do that" gated communities, you could easily change your own oil and shoot grease into the zerk fittings yourself.
What do you need to lube the propellor shaft? What kind of grease and what kind of "gun" to squirt it? I don't trust the dealer but have no proof lol. I could just do it at my own leisure but still keep paying for it for warranty purposes and just hope it's being done properly.
 
There are many grease guns out there. All of the McParts type places sell them. Here's an example of one from O'Reilley's

Performance Tool W54203 - Grease Gun | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I like the ones that have a similar body as the one I just pointed to, but a flexible rubber hose. Easier to get to a zerk fitting when you have a flexible hose.

The type of grease required should be in your owners manual. It will be sold in a cylindrically shaped tube that slides up into the bottom of the grease gun - also available at auto parts stores.

Here's a video demonstrating a grease gun in use:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB2RiRKDQ9k

There are other youtube videos demonstrating usage as well as how to load a grease gun.
 
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Any old grease will work. Get Lucas xtra heavy duty and you could probably let it go for a few years between service.
 
Pretty well confirms my suspicion that probably 95% of the people working in the car dealerships don't know dick about cars. They are taught to sell cars and services but probably don't get any real training or experience regarding the inner workings of cars.

As mentioned, if you find a good knowledgeable and trustworthy service guy stick with them, even if they don't work for the dealer brand of your car.
 
Good service depts. are the result of a concerned owner who has the presence of mind to hire a service mgr. who shares his views about quality customer service. That service mgr. will hire the same kind of people and ensure they are properly trained.

I agree. I trusted the service department at the Toyota dealer 100% when I lived in Colorado Springs, and that was due to the service manager, who ensured all of his techs were properly trained and performed quality work.

I've been very impressed with the Honda dealer here in Wichita, where my wife takes her van for service. They consistently go above and beyond to make sure the vehicle is maintained properly. I'm just about convinced I should start taking my 4runner to the Honda dealer for maintenance. That might require me to buy the parts and provide them to the Honda service department, but at least I know the maintenance will be done by a consciencious tech and overseen by a service manager that cares about their reputation.
 
I recommend you grease the u-joints and slip yokes yourself. In fact, I try to do all maintenance myself. I like having piece of mind that everything is done correctly and I know what is in there.

You never really know who the lube guy is and what kind of day he/she may be having.
 
Good to know and ill have ot look for that as im at 23k miles now so im not all that far from a 30k. Time to get back out my owners manual and see whats due then.
 
Even my 2012 2wd sr5 has two grease fittings on the propeller shaft. it's not just 4x4's. I recommend doing as much preventive maintenance yourself if you can. If you can't, find a place that you can at least observe the maintenance being done.
 
When lubing the slip yoke and u- joints to u just put it in until u see it come out?

On the slip joint, I try to add lube until I start to see the two halves of the joint start to push away from each other. If it hasn't been lubed in a long time it may not and in that case I'll put grease in and drive it a while. Then come back and try some more. You don't want to overdo the slip joint so that there is too much grease to allow compression but if you get too much in you can always remove the zerk and drive a little bit and then put the zerk back in. It will force the grease out and allow you to start over.

On the u joints I add grease until I see grease coming from all the seals and preferably until I see new grease. Again, if it seems to not want to come out then add a little and drive and repeat. The seals could be the issue if it wasn't greased properly in the past so easing into it can help prevent blowing a seal apart with too much pressure.
 

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