Seat bolt came out .....

Wow, that's definitely better than I can accomplish with my limited tool set. I don't have access to a welder of any sort. That looks like a right proper repair though. Thanks for the pictures!
 
Improvised

I ripped mine out (left front seat bolt on LH front seat) too - what I did was go to napa and buy a comparable sized bolt, matching nut, a large sturdy washer, and a smaller washer. I put the the large washer on the bolt and then wrapped a cable tie around the threaded end of the bolt and fished it through the hole in the back of the raised cross member and on up through the ripped hole, put the carpet back, the seat down and then through the seat bracket. Then I put on another washer, screwed on the nut and tightened it. Threaded end was sticking up high - so I wouldn't cut my heel (and have to cruise on back home) I put a piece of yellow terry cloth on it and fastened it with another cable tie:

azcat90-albums-97+limited-picture34431-upper-st-clair-20150718-00406.jpg


If I ever get the right tool I will cut off the end of the bolt so I can put the plastic cover back on.
 
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a hack saw can't be more than $10! Chop of the end of the bolt, then file (or sand) the edges. Easy, and much better than terry cloth!

I ended up doing a pretty decent job repairing this. I had some 1/8" x 1" bar stock laying around so I fab'd (using a hack saw, file, hammer and power drill) a 4 or 5" long strip with a hexagonal hole to fit the nut. I just drilled the hole about the right size, then used "excessive force" to smash the nut through the bar stock.

Next I fiddled the metal behind the cross member from the opening in the back, then used self tapping screws to hold it in place. I was pretty impressed with the results. Would have done a much better job if I had access to a welder of some sort...
 
I feel your pain.

this is mine. Not sure if the previous owner wanted to see if his new ice pick worked, but this was absolutely destroyed. the nut was still in the hole though thank goodness. need to cut out a bit of metal, and weld in some new stuff with the nut welded to the back of it.

WbfwCscl.jpg


and as the picture shows, the nut is not in the bottom, but in the sheet metal welded to the floor.

I havent fixed mine yet, but I am keeping it in place with a self tapping screw for the time being.
 
My version

Just thought I'd throw in how I fixed mine. Used some 1/8" X 1 1/4 flat stock, formed it, welded the nut to the backside and added rivnuts to the mounting area.
 

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My fix was just to get a much longer bolt and drill a hole through the floor pan passing the bit through the bolthole. I then added a fender washer and a locknut from the underside of the truck. I'm pretty sure that it is stronger than the miserable nut on the top in thin sheet metal in the factory configuration. These bolts only get stressed in a rear collision; I suspect the seat back collapses first.

I think it was Brian that did this first; I just copied it.

I had this same problem and solved it this exact same way using a stainless bolt, a washer, and a stainless lock nut. I also used some clear silicone in/around the washer so water doesn’t seep up into the hole the bolt comes through.
 
I go the the pull apart and drill out a good seat support and just weld the new one in whenever we get a 4runner that's had this problem. We've had 4 or 5 that the seat bolt has pulled through.
 
i also experienced the same issue about 2 months ago when i upgraded to SR5 seats and found that issue. i was able to find a nut and weld it into the same area and no issues.
 
Hey guys I just bought a 1996 4runner and I am loving it. The frpnt drivers seat bolt near the door fell out. I got the bolt but it wont go back in its like a nut is missing off the back of it. Any help would be appreciated

sounds like others have already given good advise... This is what I ended up doing. welding in a new capitive nut would be the best but... at this point so much rust.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3163257-post10.html

<a href="https://imgur.com/Tz7kIJ3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Tz7kIJ3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/c52pJH4"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/c52pJH4l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/vKAB8UP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vKAB8UPl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I'm 100% sure somebody did the same thing before but... bolt must have rusted off?
<a href="https://imgur.com/Iny0RoD"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Iny0RoDl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
I had this exact same problem. I attempted to weld a nut to the leftover metal that was there, but it's too thin and my skill isn't good enough to not burn through (was stick welding). I ended up just filling the area with fiberglass + resin around the bolt. Has worked great for the last few years.
 
Do you guys think I can run a long bolt underneath the truck to secure the right side just like the left side of the seat? Both my holes are ripped out and want to fix it this way. Don't want to drill an unnecessary hole. Thanks.
 
Do you guys think I can run a long bolt underneath the truck to secure the right side just like the left side of the seat? Both my holes are ripped out and want to fix it this way. Don't want to drill an unnecessary hole. Thanks.

Get the angle right and drill through the floor pan then get a longer bolt, silicone on a large washer at the bottom helps.
 
I was able to fix both holes today by drilling all the way to the bottom and secured it with 2 M12x1.75 flange bolts (60mm length) and 2 M12x1.75 nuts from Home depot which worked well (also got 2 big washers for the bottom nut and sealed it with gasket maker). Thanks for the tip spartacus! Feels much stronger already.

If drilling the right driver seat hole, careful when putting pressure on the drill as the transmission is right under it. Left side was super easy :)
 
I fix them by sliding big washer into place behind the bracket.Then weld the nut and washer to the bracket. Slight design flaw there by toyota as a slightly thicker bolt area would have made this problem non existent.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 
I fix them by sliding big washer into place behind the bracket.Then weld the nut and washer to the bracket. Slight design flaw there by toyota as a slightly thicker bolt area would have made this problem non existent.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I wanted to do that at first but it was just not salvageable and really had no choice but to make a hole in the bottom and use a nut/bolt combo. The seat was held on with coat wire before and that was just on the left side :wow2:
 
I wanted to do that at first but it was just not salvageable and really had no choice but to make a hole in the bottom and use a nut/bolt combo. The seat was held on with coat wire before and that was just on the left side :wow2:

I have one a PO put 3 self tapping screws in I need to fix yet.. LOL
 
One of these days I need to get mine taken care of. Would be nice if I had a welder, but since I don't, my shop of choice quoted me about $500 to fix it up to their standards.
 

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