Seat Heater Install

I have a question about the wiring. My wire looms in my kit are bizarre. Tons of extra wire from the switch to seat plug connection but not much wire to the power source. There is no way I have enough wire to get to the fuse box, but the power wire came with an inline 7.5 amp fuse installed.

Should I butt joint on more wire so I can get to the fuse box, or am I safe tapping into the cigarette lighter or console 12V source? Also on my 2016, the auto shifter light plug is 2 white wires, not a green and white.
 
My kit is here now I bought a set of hog ring plyers and a bag of rings. I will try and install them this weekend. How long is it taking you since there is a guide?
 
I would extend the wires with the same gaug and use a fuse tap. The seats are going to draw some current.

More than a phone charger or ipad charger or other accessories that are plugging into these 12V sources?

Can anyone else weigh in? If my wiring has fuses already installed on each power line, what is the benefit of running it to the fuse box? I am an electronics novice, and can easily add wire to route to the fuse box, but if it's 6 and 1/2 dozen the other, I'd rather not go to the trouble.

Edumacate me!
 
More than a phone charger or ipad charger or other accessories that are plugging into these 12V sources?

Can anyone else weigh in? If my wiring has fuses already installed on each power line, what is the benefit of running it to the fuse box? I am an electronics novice, and can easily add wire to route to the fuse box, but if it's 6 and 1/2 dozen the other, I'd rather not go to the trouble.

Edumacate me!

Here are the specs from my seat heaters... In theory with both seats on high you will be pulling 120 watts and 10 amps. An accessory plug wiring could probably handle it however if you did it on the backside and it left your accessory plug open you could plug in more things causing more of a draw then the wires/fuse can handle. I would run it all the way to the panel it is just a safer and more reliable way to run the seats.

Electrical Specs Wattage: 24~36 Watts per Pad, 48~60 Watts per seat Current Draw: 3 Amps on Low Heat Setting and 5 Amps on High Setting per Seat. It is a 12 V system. If you have always wanted to add factory like heated seats to your Vehicle or Boat, then this Heated Seat kit is the ideal kit and the ideal solution whether you own a car, SUV, Truck, Boat or Plane. Carbon Fiber technology is the best seat heating pad material in the marketplace. Installation may require removal and re-installation of seat and seat covers, as well as basic knowledge of the vehicle's wiring or professional installation.
 
Previous owner had installed seat heaters and Katzkin leather upgrade. My driver seat is now lumpy and the seat heater will burn your @$$ when on. Goin to attempt to pull the seat and skin, and see if they heater is bunched up, causing the lumpy pad and burning.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
great thread everyone.

I am going to install heated seats for my wifes B-day. she has been wanting them since day one and whenever we go on road trips says that the next car we buy has to have them.

Everyone seems to like the rostra heated seats, so I want to go with that one. but their switch is universal, and I don't know if it fits in the OEM slots in the middle console.

does anyone know if this will fit? It's the single thumb dial switch, part number 250-1871http://www.rostra.com/comfortheat-automotive-seat-heater-by-rostra.php

I really want to go with this brand but I wont if it doesn't fit. thanks for your help.
 
Seat heater install so far

Still have driver seat to do. Just finished up passenger seat today. Did wiring yesterday.

This is the kit I got https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-seats-heated-seat-seat-heater-fit-Toyota-Prius-Corolla-Camry-Yaris-landcuriser/170710469601?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Here's some pics from my install
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My biggest concern here is the wiring at the fuse panel. My old Audis have a line of posts that you can easily wire in new accessories whereas here there's really nothing to work with. I'd like to eventually wire this better since it doesn't seem all that practical long term. The two 20amp yellow fuses are for the heaters, the 5amp Brown one is for the switches (doubled up). The one at the top is for my ARB compressor switch. All the heated seat components were tapped into unused fuse slots. Any suggestions for better wiring are most welcome!
 
First mod/switch lights

Has anyone tried to wire the ebay seater heater kit in to the dimable circuit. I know enough about electricity to shock myself every time i change a light bulb, so looking for advice before i start a fire.

Here's what i'm thinking

1. rheostat switch for seat heater only requires negative wire for lights
2. Dimable lights are controlled by a rheostat on the negative side of the circuit
3. seat heaters and relay need constant ground but switch does not.

If i disconnect the negative wire between relay and switch and tap into a negative wire on the dimable circuit it would dim both the switch light powered by the(on wire) and (night light)
The negative wire that is grounded is still connected to the seat heater and the relay giving both the constant negative

Or am i missing something?
 

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Has anyone just installed the pads to the bottom of a good seat cover (one that doesn't slip around too much)? Seems much easier and in the case a pad goes pad you can easily replace it.
 
I hope to pull a seat this weekend and install the pads, and if all goes well, try to get to the second seat. I would think that using seat covers would lead to bunching or having to readjust, but really just guessing.
Good luck with what you decide, I plan on posting once I finish my install.
 
Still have driver seat to do. Just finished up passenger seat today. Did wiring yesterday.

My biggest concern here is the wiring at the fuse panel. My old Audis have a line of posts that you can easily wire in new accessories whereas here there's really nothing to work with. I'd like to eventually wire this better since it doesn't seem all that practical long term. The two 20amp yellow fuses are for the heaters, the 5amp Brown one is for the switches (doubled up). The one at the top is for my ARB compressor switch. All the heated seat components were tapped into unused fuse slots. Any suggestions for better wiring are most welcome!

Pretty much looks like what I just did today, except I put the ON wire and the Power wire together, using two fuse taps(one for each seat) and wired the illlumination to the PRND wire in the console.
I zip tied the wires up so they would not interfere with anything, but it does kinda stink you can't put the fuse box cover back on. I figure only I will know its not there!

Brandon
-----------
2016 4Runner SR5
 
Has anyone just installed the pads to the bottom of a good seat cover (one that doesn't slip around too much)? Seems much easier and in the case a pad goes pad you can easily replace it.

I would highly advise against just adding the heating element to the inside of a seat cover. I have installed a few of these and they get pretty hot. I believe, over time, it would discolor the fabric or leather if it was applied directly to it. In a typical install, the element is against the seat cushion and the underside of the seat cover, both of which are not visible should any discoloration occur.
 
Sounds like it's ok to do from what I've read, but there's no issue with putting seat covers on heated seats?

I had AC/Heated seats on my previous vehicle and I know I couldn't put covers on those. But, I'm pretty sure that was because of the perforations in the seat to allow for the cooling portion.
 
I bought my 2016 used and it has aftermarket seat warmers installed. They work great, has overheat protection and turn off automatically and wont re-start until they are down to a certain temp. Paperwork shows they were done at a pro shop though.
 

I have the same kit. How did you run the wiring from the center console to the pads? The passenger side looks fairly easy to get it under the carpet but on the drivers side there is the HVAC vent in the way of access to the carpet
 

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