Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important!

[slyfox75]

yep.....pay now or pay later

I've been off the site for a few weeks, but yes I still sell the kits.
$45 shipped. I just replied to your PM Billynath.

The plates IMO are overkill but I understand people want peace of mind.

Once you get the first code you might as well get a kit from me or on ebay a few guys sell them.....IT WILL ONLY GET WORSE. Save your sanity!!! Just do it!

I have never driven mine into "deep water" or hit the huge puddles after a rain and send water 20ft in air. I think.....and have seen pics from Tundra site I think it was of these blades breaking......I think the plastic is degrading over time due to its proximity to heat and the blades get brittle and break. I think its age and heat that is getting our trucks. Newer trucks have them over the wheel well I think(removed from heat source) but I think they solved one problem and created another(water intrusion). JUST MY THOUGHTS....

 

[HokieRunner]

I would agree that the plates can be overkill, but in my case they were necessary since I was getting codes about stuck closed valves etc. Adding the plates fixed the issue! But again, not necessary in most cases. And Def go with the sly fox kit.

 

[txclimber]

^^^^^^^^^^^^


This guys kit works wonders. Super helpful guy as well. I highly recommend this fix.

 

[Billynath1988]

Just to update everyone on this thread.. Went to dealer today after started throwing codes again. second time there and they weren't able to get anywhere with corporate regardless of anything.
Its unfortunate thats the way a company with a very strong customer support base, and a company who markets their vehicles for reliability treats people who buy their products and are subject to dealing with a very expensive, obvious design flaw. The dealer quoted me $1800 plus tax for parts and labor.. the best they can do.

I will be purchasing SlyFox's kit. I will update on the install and outcome of that as I do it.

 

[Dominic]

I had a p1442 code for something stuck closed, I ordered the AIP bypass off of ebay. I recently installed in about a week ago and it's worked flawlessly since, no codes yet. I did have issues with the wrong color coded wires but a quick email fixed my problem. I didn't install the block off plates.

 

[ToyoTech]

Just to update everyone on this thread.. Went to dealer today after started throwing codes again. second time there and they weren't able to get anywhere with corporate regardless of anything.

Its unfortunate thats the way a company with a very strong customer support base, and a company who markets their vehicles for reliability treats people who buy their products and are subject to dealing with a very expensive, obvious design flaw. The dealer quoted me $1800 plus tax for parts and labor.. the best they can do.



I will be purchasing SlyFox's kit. I will update on the install and outcome of that as I do it.

Sorry to hear..

Pump isn't cheap but it's not to hard to replace

 

[jeremy1usc]

I just bought my runner 2 weeks ago and the second day I owned it I got the CELs mentioned in this thread. Both the bypass kit and have the module installed. It has worked so far I know, because the stupid roaring sound on start up is gone. I haven't had a chance to install the plates yet. The codes I got were the stuck closed so no limp mode but I am going to install them anyway.

 

[Billynath1988]

Thank you everyone up to this point.

Today I have installed SlyFox's ST relay kit. Extremely easy to install. I know I should have done this a long time ago but I needed to go through the motions. Slyfox, thank you for the quick turn around on the order.

 

[sweetrvr]

Emisions?

I'm going through a similar nightmare- check engine lights , probable secondary air injection pump failure. (Now my heater won't work. Only blows cold air).

My only real option seems to be to install the bypass.

If I install the bypass will it still pass emissions? I live in Denver. Thanks

 

[TechWrench]

This may have been answered before, but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer yet. Can anyone tell me if this Air Pump problem is specific to certain years, or does it apply to all V8's. So far, it appears that only '05's and newer have been reporting this problem, but I may have missed reports of the problem in earlier years. I have an '03, and would like to know if I need to worry about this issue. Thanks for any assistance/info.

 

[tysauce]

It's only for 05+ with the VVT-I engines.

 

[TechWrench]

It's only for 05+ with the VVT-I engines.

Good to know. Thanks

 

[Deckard]

I own a 2006 Lexus GX 470. Same drive train as so many others with the 4.7L V8. Last week I got the following codes, accompanied by limp mode and a shop vac sound:

P1444
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank2 Stuck Open

P1441
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank1 Stuck Open

The smog pump was replaced and everything was fine, then the next day the lights came back on. The shop vac noise and the limp mode was no longer present.

Was reading some stuff online and someone remarked that it could be something downstream. Does anyone have any idea what to do next? I'm not a mechanic so need to figure this out. And no, not going to do a bypass since too many people report problems down the road.

 

[Billynath1988]

I own a 2006 Lexus GX 470. Same drive train as so many others with the 4.7L V8. Last week I got the following codes, accompanied by limp mode and a shop vac sound:

P1444
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank2 Stuck Open

P1441
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank1 Stuck Open

The smog pump was replaced and everything was fine, then the next day the lights came back on. The shop vac noise and the limp mode was no longer present.

Was reading some stuff online and someone remarked that it could be something downstream. Does anyone have any idea what to do next? I'm not a mechanic so need to figure this out. And no, not going to do a bypass since too many people report problems down the road.

If I remember correctly, From my personal experience of dealing with this and doing my own research heres your options. If the Valves are in fact stuck open (which I believe causes the limp mode), You will need to do the manifold block off plates AND the resistor kit. If it is stuck closed you can just do the resistor kit, from SLYFOX. I am unaware of any of the bypass causing any issues further down the road as for me since ive done almost a year ago, problem solved and no side effects whats so ever.

If you choose not to do these, from what I understand you will need to RR the entire system yourself or have the dealer do it which is expensive to say the least. also PLEASE call the number listed on the first post of this thread and report it.

Just to clarify the only purpose of the air injection system and those valves is to inject fresh 02 into the cats to heat them up faster and create a more efficient burn. ONLY upon cold start up or when the engine temp is below I believe 48 degrees. Without that the cats will relay on exhaust gas alone to heat up and it literally effects nothing other then emissions for about an extra 2 minutes.

 

[slyfox75]

Sorry to hear about your 470. REAL sorry to know you spent that money on the pump and labor.

Billy is mostly right
The AIP pump actually only comes on when air temp is ABOVE 41(the relay system actually tricks the ECU for the time your starter is engaged to think it is COLD outside). Once the starter is disengaged the AIP Bypass lets the actual, true air temp get to ECU. You will most likely only ever experience your AIP problem first thing in the morning when engine is "cold" or possibly after work or when engine has been sitting for many hours. The AIP system also looks at coolant temp too. If it(coolant) is warm it will not engage the AIP regardless of air temp. If you parked outside all winter in NY(edit....sorry Deck is in NC, BILLY is in NY).....it was below 41 most mornings so your AIP system didn't probably engage for MONTHS. Now that it is warming up.....its over 41f when you go to startup and it is telling AIP to come on now......thus the issue.

I have yet to hear of ANY issues with my version or other versions of the bypass, so not sure where you got that from.

I have had mine ~3 years, never touched it. No problems. Never installed plates.

I have read on Tundra forums where the blades on the fan itself broke off in pieces and can/did get pushed toward the AIP valves and can wedge themselves in the ports and make the valve not close. Never seen it, just read about it. Why you're not in limp mode now puzzles me tho.

To those yet to experience this.......trust me......just do the bypass......SO MUCH easier, less headache, etc etc. I sell the relay version for $45, Ebay has a couple versions, or make your own, the plans are on TundraSolutions and other forums. IMO its worth doing before you ever even GET to having a problem. Simple, 100% effective, cheap.

 

[Deckard]

Sorry to hear about your 470. REAL sorry to know you spent that money on the pump and labor.

Billy is mostly right
The AIP pump actually only comes on when air temp is ABOVE 41(the relay system actually tricks the ECU for the time your starter is engaged to think it is COLD outside). Once the starter is disengaged the AIP Bypass lets the actual, true air temp get to ECU. You will most likely only ever experience your AIP problem first thing in the morning when engine is "cold" or possibly after work or when engine has been sitting for many hours. The AIP system also looks at coolant temp too. If it(coolant) is warm it will not engage the AIP regardless of air temp. If you parked outside all winter in NY(edit....sorry Deck is in NC, BILLY is in NY).....it was below 41 most mornings so your AIP system didn't probably engage for MONTHS. Now that it is warming up.....its over 41f when you go to startup and it is telling AIP to come on now......thus the issue.

I have yet to hear of ANY issues with my version or other versions of the bypass, so not sure where you got that from.

I have had mine ~3 years, never touched it. No problems. Never installed plates.

I have read on Tundra forums where the blades on the fan itself broke off in pieces and can/did get pushed toward the AIP valves and can wedge themselves in the ports and make the valve not close. Never seen it, just read about it. Why you're not in limp mode now puzzles me tho.

To those yet to experience this.......trust me......just do the bypass......SO MUCH easier, less headache, etc etc. I sell the relay version for $45, Ebay has a couple versions, or make your own, the plans are on TundraSolutions and other forums. IMO its worth doing before you ever even GET to having a problem. Simple, 100% effective, cheap.

Thanks for your swift reply. Started to limp mode today.

You can read about the problems of bypass modules in this thread:

Air Induction Pump Bypass Module - AIP Valve Bypass

Not sure those problems can be any worse that what I'm experiencing right now. I'm in hell. The bypass module can't be any greater risk based on this experience. Just need to make sure I can get past the NC smog check.

Tell me more about this relay version (It's all I need? Or is Billy right and I need block off plates too?) and how to get it fast.

Thanks

 

[slyfox75]

You can try and pull battery lead and let all your codes clear.
Then see if it goes back to limp mode.
Look on ebay for "Toyota AIP Bypass"
there is a ~$180 version that just clips in and includes the plates
there is a ~$155 version that needs to be soldered(multiple cables) and also includes plates
and then my relay system(I did not devise, a couple tundrasolutions guys did) I just do this version for convenience for people because its hard to get all the components from one place and I put them together so all you have to do is about a 10 minute total install. I do NOT sell plates though. That's why I recommend to do this mode BEFORE you have issues or at least early into it before they get stuck open. You can email me at [email protected] or PM me on here if you or anyone else wants a kit, I usually keep a few made up.

I can ship one out Monday if needed.
If you DO have stuck open valves......you need the plates, my kit is not enough.

Yes, from my knowledge you should have no problem passing emissions. Should be same situation as you driving up and getting it done with a already hot motor.....they should never know the difference. Maybe someone who has a bypass that lives in a emissions check state/city can chime in.

 

[Brian3676]

There is no issues caused by blocking off the system. People have been doing it on Subarus since Subaru started putting them on in 2007. Same failure issues and same expensive repaires. Not sure if the block off plates for Subaru will work or not on Toyota.

 

[Deckard]

You can try and pull battery lead and let all your codes clear.
Then see if it goes back to limp mode.
Look on ebay for "Toyota AIP Bypass"
there is a ~$180 version that just clips in and includes the plates
there is a ~$155 version that needs to be soldered(multiple cables) and also includes plates
and then my relay system(I did not devise, a couple tundrasolutions guys did) I just do this version for convenience for people because its hard to get all the components from one place and I put them together so all you have to do is about a 10 minute total install. I do NOT sell plates though. That's why I recommend to do this mode BEFORE you have issues or at least early into it before they get stuck open. You can email me at [email protected] or PM me on here if you or anyone else wants a kit, I usually keep a few made up.

I can ship one out Monday if needed.
If you DO have stuck open valves......you need the plates, my kit is not enough.

Yes, from my knowledge you should have no problem passing emissions. Should be same situation as you driving up and getting it done with a already hot motor.....they should never know the difference. Maybe someone who has a bypass that lives in a emissions check state/city can chime in.

@Sly

Okay, I got the car warm, then disconnected the pos lead on the battery, started it but the Christmas lights were all still there. I was about ready to give up, then remembered how my computer holds a charge for a bit after disconnecting power. So I disconnected the pos terminal again and waited a few minutes before putting it back on, and the lights went off.

If I understand this correctly, the valves are now closed, so I can go with your kit, Sly? I'll copy this to your email and request purchase instructions.

BillyN:

"...from what I understand you will need to RR the entire system yourself..."

What does RR mean? Could you elaborate on this? Is this the "downstream" issue(s) that the quoted poster was referring to? Would like to get smart on this.

 

[slyfox75]

RR = Repair and/or Replace