Should I replace the CV Axles????

[Jeff T]

Changed the oil today and noticed 3 boots are ripped, so re-banding and filling with grease like in the DIY sticky is not going to work for me.

Since I have to pull it all apart should I just replace the axles or just clean them up re-boot and re-grease???

I see Rock has axles all assembled, booted and greased.

Any thoughts??

BTW - Any idea on how long it "should" take??

Thanks!!!

 

[settytb]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html

first time give about an hour-2 per side... with air tools pretty quick. depends on if they come out easy or not... I would replace them rock auto has them super cheap.

 

[Jeff T]

Thanks for the note and your write up. I've read the write up 7-8 times and all appears very clear til I get to step #9 of the removal. Not being under the truck I'm unclear on using the sledge to get something out? I guess when I open up this can of worms it will become clearer.

Thanks Again:thumb3:

 

[Sungod]

I struggled with this a few weeks ago. I went with the replacement shafts since they really were not that much more than buying the boot and they were a lot less hassle. I got mine from Summit Racing. They were less than Rock when you add in shipping cost and they will match Rock's price.

At some point I might rebuild mine as spares, but most likely will end up at scrap yard.

 

[Jeff T]

I struggled with this a few weeks ago. I went with the replacement shafts since they really were not that much more than buying the boot and they were a lot less hassle. I got mine from Summit Racing. They were less than Rock when you add in shipping cost and they will match Rock's price.

At some point I might rebuild mine as spares, but most likely will end up at scrap yard.

Did you replace the seals as well?

 

[Sungod]

I didn't replace the seal. I probably should have because I am kind of neurotic about that kind of stuff. The FSM doesn't call for replacement of the seals so I justify it in my head as an OK thing to do. I was careful on the removal and the installation. For $30 or so, if I had to do it again, I would, and I am sure 8 years from now when I have to do it again, I will.

I think gasket material has improved dramatically in the past 10 years. There was a time that you always replaced any gasket when you took something apart. It is a hard mindset to let go. I was in the same situation when I did my timing belt and water pump. There is an o-ring on a pipe that I couldn't find at the dealer. I talked to a tech who said they never replace it. They just lube it and send it out and have never had an issue. I drove myself crazy trying to find on just because if it did leak the only way to get to that 10 cent o-ring was to take everything apart.

 

[settytb]

So, to answer your comment about step 9...the CV's are kind of a triangle shape. And on the flat edge of each triangle there is a lip that sticks up on both sides...for insertion and removal. so you can put the prybar on the lip and hit it to get it out. If you don't want to replace the seals (i didn't) then make sure you have a buddy holding the axle and supporting it to pull it straight out. I was doing it by myself so I didn't really have that luxury. You could try not replacing the seals as it isn't a horribly difficult job. Like I said after a few times and with air tools in 45 minutes i can have one out and back in... But watching your new synthetic gear lube get all over the driveway is seriously annoying. Personally I would replace the seals just so i don't have to do it again. Learn from my mistakes