Should there be this movemen in my steering?

[BrandonF]

I've developed some vibration/shuddering lately. It happens pretty independently of braking/accelerating/coasting.

I jacked each corner up to check for obvious play. Everything is tight except for my front wheels have some degree of side to side play, which is visible in the steering rack boots. Is this just from movement in the gears between the steering rack and steering column? Or should it be dead tight?

I replaced my OTR ends and steering rack bushings recently. I did not replace the ITR ends or steering rack guide.

In addition, I found a tiny bit of play in my rear driveshaft at the sleeved joint about 4" forward from the rear u-joint (I'm not sure what the proper name for this is). Should this be absolutely dead tight as well? The play is extremely minor - I can just feel it in my hand and visibly, it's just barely noticeable if I focus on that joint. I just replaced my rear u-joint and the front u-joint is tight as well so those are not suspects.

The final point: I just replaced my brake shoes and when I jacked up the rear wheels, there is a lot of resistance when turning them. They can be moved by hand, but definitely do not spin freely. My parking brake has become extremely tight since the shoes have self adjusted. I am going to back it off to hopefully reduce the rubbing.

Could excessively rubbing brake shoes cause vibration?

 

[poleclimber63]

I've developed some vibration/shuddering lately. It happens pretty independently of braking/accelerating/coasting.

I jacked each corner up to check for obvious play. Everything is tight except for my front wheels have some degree of side to side play, which is visible in the steering rack boots. Is this just from movement in the gears between the steering rack and steering column? Or should it be dead tight?

I replaced my OTR ends and steering rack bushings recently. I did not replace the ITR ends or steering rack guide.

In addition, I found a tiny bit of play in my rear driveshaft at the sleeved joint about 4" forward from the rear u-joint (I'm not sure what the proper name for this is). Should this be absolutely dead tight as well? The play is extremely minor - I can just feel it in my hand and visibly, it's just barely noticeable if I focus on that joint. I just replaced my rear u-joint and the front u-joint is tight as well so those are not suspects.

The final point: I just replaced my brake shoes and when I jacked up the rear wheels, there is a lot of resistance when turning them. They can be moved by hand, but definitely do not spin freely. My parking brake has become extremely tight since the shoes have self adjusted. I am going to back it off to hopefully reduce the rubbing.

Could excessively rubbing brake shoes cause vibration?

I've got a little play as well. I too have replaced the rack bushings. I've ordered U and LBJ's from Rock Auto out of the USA as they are WAY cheaper than Lordco or anywhere else in Canada. I use a Customs Broker and when I lived in the Lower Mainland, I used a company called Ship happens--- they're a US mail drop. You run down to Sumas or Lynden, pick up your stuff, and bring it across. I just bought a timing kit--- $475 at Lordco, from Rock $175 and it was Aisin! No duty. Just an example.
When you did your OTRE's, did the rods just drop out of the rack? if so, the ITRE's need replacing. There should be enough resistance in the ITRE's to stand out. I myself plan on doing the ITRE's and OTRE's. After that, there's only 2 things left. The rack and the steering shaft. If you do a search, there is some info on the shaft--- there's a slip joint in the shaft that can wear--- if you feel a clunk when you turn the wheel, the joint is loose. The link I found suggests the fix is to spot weld it. I haven't got to this point yet, as I just did an engine replacement. Hopefully my rack is ok.... again, haven't got there yet. Its not leaking, as yet. I don't plan on any long drives at the moment, as this truck is my weekend toy hauler. We'll see.

 

[jgue467]

...The final point: I just replaced my brake shoes and when I jacked up the rear wheels, there is a lot of resistance when turning them. They can be moved by hand, but definitely do not spin freely. My parking brake has become extremely tight since the shoes have self adjusted. I am going to back it off to hopefully reduce the rubbing.

Could excessively rubbing brake shoes cause vibration?

Not sure about the vibration but just maybe. When you installed the rear shoes did you:

1. ADJUST BELLCRANK
(a) Lightly pull the bellcrank in direction ”A” until there is no
slack at part ”B”.
(b) In this condition, turn the adjusting bolt so that dimension
”C” will be 0.4 - 0.8 mm (0.016 - 0.031 in.).
(c) Lock the adjusting bolt with the lock nut.
(d) Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake bellcrank
and install the clip.
(e) Install the 2 tension springs.
2. CHECK AUTOMATIC ADJUSTING LEVER
Check that the automatic adjusting lever is properly installed.
If it is not incorrect, check for incorrect installation o f the rear
brakes.
3. CHECK CLEARANCE BETWEEN BRAKE SHOES AND
DRUM
(a) Remove the drum.
(b) Measure the brake drum inside diameter and diameter of
the brake shoes. Check that the difference between the
diameters is the correct shoe clearance.
Shoe clearance: 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
If it is incorrect, check the parking brake system.
4. FILL BRAKE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
5. BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM (See page BR-4 )
6. CHECK FOR LEAKS?

From our beloved FSM located here (page 133): http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...faq-tutorials-documentation-reference-v2.html