Slimline Subwoofer

I'm not too tech savvy.. I've always thought a new head unit was required to run a subwoofer, which is how I've done it in all my past vehicles. You guys are installing them by just connecting to the speakers? How does that work?
Like I said, no electrical specialist here...if a hammer don't fix it, it's an electrical problem.. �� lol


Essentially the subwoofers we are talking about have the amplifier and woofer combined into a very slim box that can be fit underneath a seat. The power for the built in amplifier is run directly to the battery. The signal is received by tapping into the speakers. The built in amplifier applies a high pass filter that essentially blocks all of the upper frequency ranges and just uses the low stuff. The Kicker also has the option to toggle a switch for after market stereos with subwoofer pre-outs (which contain only low frequencies).

Hope this helps...also I'm a novice when it comes to car audio stuff so if I have misspoken someone feel free to correct me.
 
Essentially the subwoofers we are talking about have the amplifier and woofer combined into a very slim box that can be fit underneath a seat. The power for the built in amplifier is run directly to the battery. The signal is received by tapping into the speakers. The built in amplifier applies a high pass filter that essentially blocks all of the upper frequency ranges and just uses the low stuff. The Kicker also has the option to toggle a switch for after market stereos with subwoofer pre-outs (which contain only low frequencies).

Hope this helps...also I'm a novice when it comes to car audio stuff so if I have misspoken someone feel free to correct me.

Interesting. Thanks for the info! I will look into it more and try and tackle this. The one I was looking at getting was the one antman talked about in his thread. I think it's around $200 for the combo sub and amp built as one.
 
Interesting. Thanks for the info! I will look into it more and try and tackle this. The one I was looking at getting was the one antman talked about in his thread. I think it's around $200 for the combo sub and amp built as one.

Best of luck to you! There are lots of options out there. I have the Kicker hideaway in mine and I really like the sound. But to each their own. Antman has far more experience than myself with mods but feel free to ask anything.
 
I must suck at searching. Can you link me to one install?

Here are a few. I used the search word subwoofer and restricted the search to only the 5th gen forum. There are others out there, some with step-by-step pictures. Some other posts are also in member's signatures.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...-subwoofer-enclosure.html?highlight=subwoofer

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ubwoofer-box-5th-gen.html?highlight=subwoofer

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192040-sub-cubby.html?highlight=subwoofer

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...sub-enclosure-wanted.html?highlight=subwoofer
 
Has anyone thought about doing this? Installing the subwoofer in the same location as the Limited?

WOOFER for 2014 Toyota 4Runner*|*86150-0W120
f710e2b482d0615bbef2d2b6bf04586f.png


It might be a good option for a stealthier installation of an aftermarket subwoofer for the folks that don't want to put it under the seat.

Many have, in fact, thought about it, and several have actually done it. I saw a few fairly recent threads on their installs.

I agree that the OEM JBL sub would be ideal if you just wanted a little bit of bass. The problem is the OEM mount is expensive, and the OEM sub is expensive AND underpowered.

I havent seen anyone install the OEM sub in a 5th gen. I have seen people do custom jobs in the OEM location, which are awesome but expensive.

The easiest and by far the cheapest are the underseat subs. They are not very powerful but they fill in the lower end well, easy to install, dont take up any storage space, and they are dirt cheap.
 
I'm not too tech savvy.. I've always thought a new head unit was required to run a subwoofer, which is how I've done it in all my past vehicles. You guys are installing them by just connecting to the speakers? How does that work?

Hi Tstoutlv,

...You don't have to replace the HU to 'add-a-sub', but a little more involved than just buying a big ole woofer and tying it in... 'When done right!' :D
 
I'm not too tech savvy.. I've always thought a new head unit was required to run a subwoofer, which is how I've done it in all my past vehicles. You guys are installing them by just connecting to the speakers? How does that work?
Like I said, no electrical specialist here...if a hammer don't fix it, it's an electrical problem.. �� lol

You need a harness like the link below. Basically you will splice into existing factory speaker wires and then plug your RCA cables into the harness and amp. The only issue is that if your amp does not have a bass knob, the bass for your sub will be controlled simultaneously with the rest of your speakers through the factory head unit.

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...Vj8YCFQhWkgodeloNMw&ei=_HB9VdvWMoisyQT6tLWYAw
 
You need a harness like the link below. Basically you will splice into existing factory speaker wires and then plug your RCA cables into the harness and amp. The only issue is that if your amp does not have a bass knob, the bass for your sub will be controlled simultaneously with the rest of your speakers through the factory head unit.

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...Vj8YCFQhWkgodeloNMw&ei=_HB9VdvWMoisyQT6tLWYAw

Actually, this isn't always needed. In some cases, the "hideaway" subwoofer manufacturers ship out their units with a wire harness specifically for tapping into your existing speakers. For example, the Kicker will accept both high and low level inputs (there is a toggle switch) but doesn't come with low level input harness. It ships only with a high level input harness that you tie directly into your factory speaker leads. You can purchase a separate harness to integrate it with low level inputs but that is extra $$$ and would require purchasing something as listed above.

I would check each hideaway subwoofer to see what kind of inputs it takes. The ones I have looked at seemed to be geared towards use with a factory head unit to simply add some "punch" to the existing system...This RCA converter would be necessary if you are adding an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer separately and not necessarily with a all-in-one, under the seat subwoofer.
 
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Actually, this isn't always needed. In some cases, the "hideaway" subwoofer manufacturers ship out their units with a wire harness specifically for tapping into your existing speakers. For example, the Kicker will accept both high and low level inputs (there is a toggle switch) but doesn't come with low level input harness. It ships only with a high level input harness that you tie directly into your factory speaker leads. You can purchase a separate harness to integrate it with low level inputs but that is extra $$$ and would require purchasing something as listed above.

I would check each hideaway subwoofer to see what kind of inputs it takes. The ones I have looked at seemed to be geared towards use with a factory head unit to simply add some "punch" to the existing system...This RCA converter would be necessary if you are adding an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer separately and not necessarily with a all-in-one, under the seat subwoofer.

I see what you're saying. That makes sense about the hideaway sub/amp combo. I have not used those before so I was speaking strictly from the old school separate amp and sub setup. This is the way that I have had to do it when adding a sub to a factory head unit.
 
"...The only issue is that if your amp does not have a bass knob, the bass for your sub will be controlled simultaneously with the rest of your speakers through the factory head unit..."

Hi On Point,

Your statement is exactly right! And if you're not using a Bass control knob here's what can happen. Let's say that the hu has about 20 watts/channel (80W total), but the bass amp(s) has roughly 1000 to 1500 watts total. When listening at low volume it sounds great; much better than before when you had no sub at all. Now... let's say you need a little more volume due to the road noise and ambient effect. When you increase the vol to about double (10 dBs), the hu may be able to produce 80W max, but... you also raised the gain to the sub-woofer's amp by the same ratio, but not by the same amount! You increased the hu from 8w to 80w; a ratio of ten times or 10 db (10 dB loudness is equivalent to about twice the apparent volume... or half the apparent vol; depending on whether you're increasing or decreasing).

But when you did that you also raised the subwoofer's amp by the same 10 dB; from 100w output to 1,000W output... see the problem... The bass will gain at a much higher rate than the hu because of it's much higher output capability. But you need that higher output ratio, capability, because of the laws that govern low frequency sound propagation/control! My point... it's worth the extra $25-30 bucks to have total bass control at your fingertips; here's a link:
Amazon.com: JL Audio RBC1 Remote Bass Control: Car Electronics "Enjoy & Rgds"!
 
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Hi On Point,

Your statement is exactly right! And if you're not using a Bass control knob here's what can happen. Let's say that the hu has about 20 watts/channel (80W total), but the bass amp(s) has roughly 1000 to 1500 watts total. when listing at low volume it sounds great; much better than before when you had no sub at all. Now... let's say you need a little more volume due to the road noise and ambient effect. When you increase the vol to about double (10 dBs), the hu may be able to produce 80W max, but... you also raised the gain to the sub-woofer's amp by the same ratio, but not by the same amount! You increased the hu from 8w to 80w; a ratio of ten times or 10 db (10 dB loudness is equivalent to about twice the apparent volume... or half the apparent vol; depending on whether you're increasing or decreasing).

But when you did that you also raised the subwoofer's amp by the same 10 dB; from 100w output to 1,000W output... see the problem... The bass will gain at a much higher rate than the hu because of it's much higher output capability. But you need that higher output ratio, capability, because of the laws that govern low frequency sound propagation/control! My point... it's worth the extra $25-30 bucks to have total bass control at your fingertips; here's a link:
Amazon.com: JL Audio RBC1 Remote Bass Control: Car Electronics "Enjoy & Rgds"!

Greg, thank you very much for the explanation! I enjoy learning new information. My thought process was always that I did not want to blow my component speakers by increasing the bass for the sub! Lol! I never thought of it the way you explained it. Thanks again! :cheers:
 
"...My thought process was always that I did not want to blow my component speakers by increasing the bass for the sub!..."

I think I understand what you said here; correct me if I'm missing it. You're saying that you were being cautious NOT to cause damage to your component speakers by adjusting/increasing the bass (EQ) from the hu; is that right? If not... here's where you come back to inform me. But if so, may I add... When you're utilizing a sub, it comes with the exceptional benefit of "being able to 'Completely Eradicate' the bass from the door and dash speakers, right from the hu". Doing this will add much quality and clarity to those components that really weren't designed to reproduce the lower octaves, so the benefits of having a sub are manifold!

I actually have the bass on my hu in the negative e.g., (-.l....0......+) because the sub system will give MORE THAN ENOUGH bass all by itself! And... the component speakers in the dash & doors sound so much clearer this way. I'm also using an external EQ and X-Over; which processes the audio signal right before it gets injected into the sub's Mono-blocks!

Cheers!
 
My quick search didn't turn up anything for 2003 or 2004 but I found some info for 2006 which is probably the same. Always test and double check before cutting or splicing wires though. Even though this is a 5th gen section I'll help you out. I don't mean to de-rail this thread.





DIRECTWIRE[emoji769] WIRING INFORMATION - TOYOTA / 4RUNNER / 2006 / Audio



Radio 12v blue/yellow + radio harness

Radio Ground brown - radio harness

Radio Ignition gray + radio harness

Radio Illumination green + radio harness

Factory Amp Turn-on N/A

Power Antenna black + radio harness

LF Speaker +/- pink - purple +,- radio harness or amplifier

Notes: If equipped, the stereo amplifier is behind the passenger side quarter panel.

RF Speaker +/- lt. green - blue +,- radio harness or amplifier

LR Speaker +/- black - yellow +,- radio harness or amplifier

RR Speaker +/- red - white +,- radio harness or amplifier


I didn't realize at the time that I was posting in a 5th Gen thread. I've actually been trying to decide between a 2015 Limited or TRD-Pro. Always thought my next 4Runner should have the JBL system with a subwoofer, but based on my research, that's not an option and only comes in the Limited. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that. Thought I'd try the Kenwood sub under the seat in my 2004 to see if it would keep me happy or not. My biggest issues with the Limited are I don't think 20" wheels with low profile tires belong on an off-road vehicle and I don't really want all time 4 wheel drive. Sub sounds good enough that I'll probably keep driving the 2004 for a while longer. Wondering what it would sound like with one under both front seats.
 
How is the sound?


Hey guys, sorry it took so long for the response. It took me about a week to get it installed. As I said before, it fits perfectly under the passenger seat. And the sound is really nice. It fills in the bottom really well, and has a nice rich tone. It's not going to rattle your windows (as said many times before with these slim subs) but it does have a nice punch when you want it. I'd recommend it to yall if you're looking to fill the lows without losing any space whatsoever.
 

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