So Cal 4Runner BS Thread

Oneluv13T4R said:
I'll help you with all your welding shit you've gotta get done.
Click to expand...

I'll take you up on that. You want to tackle the lower link mount as well or should I still have Yotamasters knock that out, and just leave the cam tab gussets? I'm OK either way, just that I didn't have the confidence to attempt the link mounts on my own. Easy enough to call them up and cancel that appointment though.

I'll have parts in the next week, maybe two.

AssBurns said:
[MENTION=145222]4rcybr[/MENTION] I’d replace LCA bushings with poly bushings (like Whiteline) while you have everything apart.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about that. It looks like it is about $150 for the bushings (presuming these are the right ones? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/whl-w53312/overview/year/2004/make/toyota/model/4runner) . Worth it, even at almost the cost of one decent LCA?

Drunner97 said:
I should have my new gears next Tuesday and I'll be doing a mod day on Saturday to put my rig back together. Can't help you with welding though.
Click to expand...

Yeah, no worries there. I was actually just thinking I wanted to 'help' with the install of your new gear, just so I can see how to do that. Or at least stand off to the side out of the way and see how someone else does it. Always more to learn...

Oneluv13T4R said:
I was volunteering my welder and my assistance ..I figured I know someone [MENTION=77357]85straight[/MENTION] that I would go hijack for a few hours to do his part.
Click to expand...

Works for me. Hopefully we can make it work for [MENTION=77357]85straight[/MENTION] as well. Thanks.
 
4rcybr said:
I'll take you up on that. You want to tackle the lower link mount as well or should I still have Yotamasters knock that out, and just leave the cam tab gussets? I'm OK either way, just that I didn't have the confidence to attempt the link mounts on my own. Easy enough to call them up and cancel that appointment though.

I'll have parts in the next week, maybe two.



I was wondering about that. It looks like it is about $150 for the bushings (presuming these are the right ones? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/whl-w53312/overview/year/2004/make/toyota/model/4runner) . Worth it, even at almost the cost of one decent LCA?



Yeah, no worries there. I was actually just thinking I wanted to 'help' with the install of your new gear, just so I can see how to do that. Or at least stand off to the side out of the way and see how someone else does it. Always more to learn...



Works for me. Hopefully we can make it work for [MENTION=77357]85straight[/MENTION] as well. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I would think the lower link mount would be much easier than the cam tab gussets. Isn't the lower link mount just weld on skids that cover the lower link box frame ?.
Cause my lower link frame boxes are in much worse condition and have been meaning/wanting to do the same.

Rebuilding your stock lca with new bushing and balljoints is a better way to go cause another set of stock lower arms will just need the same if you wanna complete fresh pair and upgrade from stock.
 
Oneluv13T4R said:
I would think the lower link mount would be much easier than the cam tab gussets. Isn't the lower link mount just weld on skids that cover the lower link box frame ?.
Cause my lower link frame boxes are in much worse condition and have been meaning/wanting to do the same.

Rebuilding your stock lca with new bushing and balljoints is a better way to go cause another set of stock lower arms will just need the same if you wanna complete fresh pair and upgrade from stock.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it is just a weld on set for the rear. I just don't know enough to know how much work it is, or how tricky. I think it will just take some hammering, bending, and then the welding. Hopefully not too difficult, I just didn't trust my non-existent skills to do that safely.

From what I'm reading it looks like you need a press to swap out the balljoints-do you have one? I can definitely get the bushings and lower ball joints ordered to have them in hand soon.

Thanks!
 
[MENTION=145222]4rcybr[/MENTION] [MENTION=117408]Oneluv13T4R[/MENTION] I'm down to lend a hand one of these weekends, how thick is the material?
 
85straight said:
[MENTION=145222]4rcybr[/MENTION] [MENTION=117408]Oneluv13T4R[/MENTION] I'm down to lend a hand one of these weekends, how thick is the material?
Click to expand...

The lower link guards are 3/16" the cam tab gussets are 1/4” thick cam side and 1/8” thick backing plate.
 
[MENTION=145222]4rcybr[/MENTION] those are definitely too expensive. I got mine from Amazon for like $50


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4rcybr said:
Yeah, it is just a weld on set for the rear. I just don't know enough to know how much work it is, or how tricky. I think it will just take some hammering, bending, and then the welding. Hopefully not too difficult, I just didn't trust my non-existent skills to do that safely.

From what I'm reading it looks like you need a press to swap out the balljoints-do you have one? I can definitely get the bushings and lower ball joints ordered to have them in hand soon.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yeah i have a press....
 

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Last edited:
Got some gears and lockers for the mall. Working on the 3rd member right now. Think I got all the shavings out.

38455d095b387c00d8a0780a9ca116ad.jpg


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Welp. I'm still screwed. She moves, but I can't get my center diff lock to disengage. So I can't drive street. Probably have to pull the transfer case and see I can force it to happen manually.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Drunner97 said:
Welp. I'm still screwed. She moves, but I can't get my center diff lock to disengage. So I can't drive street. Probably have to pull the transfer case and see I can force it to happen manually.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Im not familiar w/ the center diff lock...is it an electric switch?
 
Drunner97 said:
Yeah. Electric switch with an actuator that controls the transfer case.

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Click to expand...

Is there a way to manually shift it? My old jeep tcase would bind up a lot and get stuck in 4lo, i would need to smack on the lever at the tcase to free it up, does your actuator work an external rod or is it all internal?
 
Drunner97 said:
Yeah. Electric switch with an actuator that controls the transfer case.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That sucks man, since it's electrical could it be something as simple as a fuse/relay or simple reset by undoing the battery? How about undoing the front and rear driveshafts to see the TC moves freely and by switch?
 
Big V said:
Is there a way to manually shift it? My old jeep tcase would bind up a lot and get stuck in 4lo, i would need to smack on the lever at the tcase to free it up, does your actuator work an external rod or is it all internal?
Click to expand...

Internal. I've tried smacking the tcase with a rubber mallet, no go. I drove up the street and got it to kick out with a BANG. I could tell it was out because the steering loosened up, but the light wouldn't stop flashing. When I pulled back into the driveway, turned it off/back on both 4wd and the center diff light just kept flashing and wouldn't reset until I turned both back on.

cbr900boy said:
That sucks man, since it's electrical could it be something as simple as a fuse/relay or simple reset by undoing the battery? How about undoing the front and rear driveshafts to see the TC moves freely and by switch?
Click to expand...

Tried the resetting the ECU by pulling the battery for 20 mins. No go. The TC will go in and out of 4low with small amount of grinding (which it never used to do) so something still works, it's just the center diff that's being a *****.

I'm gonna keep digging this week and try everything I can. Last resort is pulling the transfer case and seeing if I can manually move the rods without taking the actuator off. I understand it's a real ***** to get them synced back up once you go that far. Worst case, I need to buy a need transfer case.
 
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