So I need a new battery…

vondy21

New member
I’m trying to decide if it’s worth going AGM for my use.

The only reason I am even considering it is we recently got a Dometic CFX3 55IM. It spends 99% of its time in our house as a beer fridge. The rest of the time it will be used for road trips we take several times a year. When we get to the destination it will move into the house we are at and once again be used as a beer fridge.

I don’t have any other accessories so for that use a regular starting battery would work fine.

I installed the ARB wiring kit to have an always on outlet in the back to power the fridge. I’d like to be able to use it at work to make grocery runs every now and then during lunch. This would have the fridge running off the battery for several hours a day. I’m in Texas so it can get well over 100 degrees inside my 4runner while siting in the parking lot.

We will also do more camping in the future so that is a consideration.

If I were going to use the fridge more often in the car I’d just go with the Dometic PLB40 battery. But for now, it’s too much of an expense and I need a new starting battery anyway.

So looking at the the X2Power or Duracell AGM from Batteries Plus. But of course there is the charging issue with the lower voltage the 4Runner puts out. Seems like there is some debate whether it’s really an issue or not.

I’d just assume go with a standard battery but don’t want the fridge killing it. Maybe it would be fine, that’s the info I am looking for from those who have a similar setup.

Any thoughts from those with similar setups? Thanks.
 
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I needed a new battery a few months ago and wanted to get an AGM but after some research stayed with a normal battery. The 4R doesn't quite meet the charge voltage to fully charge them to 100% without using a diode modification which is an easy thing actually. I'm sure they work but you're not likely to get the full charge capacity of a AGM which is one of the main reasons for getting an AGM. They are more robust with vibration however. Maybe next battery will be AGM.
 
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I have two the the X2. Awesome battery and can’t beat the 48 month warranty. I paid $278 for mine(each) but to me it well worth it


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In my previous '13 FJ Cruiser I replaced the original battery with a regular battery. It leaked and ate a hole in the metal support underneath it. I had no indication it was leaking until I noticed what looked like rusty water spots in my garage. I realized later that they were acid stains. I didn't see all of the chewed up metal and paint until I removed the battery and plastic battery tray.

I promptly replaced it with an AGM battery from NAPA. When the original battery in my 4Runner dies I will replace it with an AGM. I don't want to have to deal with a leaky battery again.

Anyway, just something to think about.

eEH7OSr.jpg
 
odyssey group 31 EXTREEEEEME.

After i installed that battery, I didn't need viagra anymore. Who knew?


all kidding aside, its been a great battery if you can swing the cost, and upgrade to an appropriate battery tray. Used a cheap GM diode to trick the alternator.

Start up shows 14.4 to 14.7 volts i think. Driving state it stays around 13.8 volts. I can power a fridge for up to 2 to 3 days with no problems (haven't pushed it farther). Can power my winch, accessory lights/driving lights, and camp/cargo lights, all though not at the same time.

I bought it to power my winch since my winch will killed my OEM battery very quickly, but found it more useful for powering other stuff (as listed above).
 
So how many of you with the AGMs have upped the charging voltage with the GM fuse? How many have simply done nothing but run stock with the AGM? I'm curious if it's really necessary.
 
In my previous '13 FJ Cruiser I replaced the original battery with a regular battery. It leaked and ate a hole in the metal support underneath it. I had no indication it was leaking until I noticed what looked like rusty water spots in my garage. I realized later that they were acid stains. I didn't see all of the chewed up metal and paint until I removed the battery and plastic battery tray.

I promptly replaced it with an AGM battery from NAPA. When the original battery in my 4Runner dies I will replace it with an AGM. I don't want to have to deal with a leaky battery again.

Anyway, just something to think about.

eEH7OSr.jpg

One thing also to note is that if you go with some massive heavy agm battery, this area and the seams below it can fail as well. I have an odyssey 34 which is around 50lbs, the group size 31 is closer to 80lbs.
 
I have been researching on what AGM to get as well. Definitely sounds worth it even if the 4Runner doesn't quite meet the charge voltage to fully charge them to 100% because it will still be way better than OEM. And if i simply get a NOCO Smart Charger to boost the capacity ill be good for my trips. Most don't even bother and seem to be fine.

I am plaining on only doing a group 34/24??? since its lighter and an easy swap. But i'm only looking to extend run time of my Baja lights and amplified stereo for an extra couple of hours. If i got a fridge i would definitely go much more capacity.
 
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So how many of you with the AGMs have upped the charging voltage with the GM fuse? How many have simply done nothing but run stock with the AGM? I'm curious if it's really necessary.

I just added an X2 AGM and did the GM fuse but still too early to give any solid feedback.
 
Die Hard AGM - No diode

I bought a DieHard Gold AGM Automotive Battery - Group Size EP-34R from Sears in October 2016... no diode mods, still working OK. (shh, when they overhear you bragging, they're going to fail just to annoy you, make you look bad).

I got some kind of discount then, it was $134. Looks like they're $220 now.
Advance Auto lists a DieHard Platinum AGM Group size 34 for $220, 3 year replacement. They don't seem to discount the DieHards.

Not sure who makes the DieHard these days.
 
So how many of you with the AGMs have upped the charging voltage with the GM fuse? How many have simply done nothing but run stock with the AGM? I'm curious if it's really necessary.

My 4R has a dual Battery system. Primary battery is a Odyessey 34R and secondary is a Optima Marine deep cycle, which powers all none OEM accessories. I did not do the mod to the alternator.
I use a CTEC 7002 battery maintainer for both batteries. Albeit the 4R is not a DD. Its on a charger when not in use.
 
My 4R has a dual Battery system. Primary battery is a Odyessey 34R and secondary is a Optima Marine deep cycle, which powers all none OEM accessories. I did not do the mod to the alternator.
I use a CTEC 7002 battery maintainer for both batteries. Albeit the 4R is not a DD. Its on a charger when not in use.

Hey can you explain the CTEC a little bit ? I googled it but still not quite clear how it works.
 
I bought a DieHard Gold AGM Automotive Battery - Group Size EP-34R from Sears in October 2016... no diode mods, still working OK. (shh, when they overhear you bragging, they're going to fail just to annoy you, make you look bad).

I got some kind of discount then, it was $134. Looks like they're $220 now.
Advance Auto lists a DieHard Platinum AGM Group size 34 for $220, 3 year replacement. They don't seem to discount the DieHards.

Not sure who makes the DieHard these days.

I put the same AGM battery in my 15 Sienna and 11 4R a year ago with no mods. Took a 4 week vacation this summer and left the 4R on a charger. When I hooked it to my smart my smart charger, it ran the diag (always does) and announced it was fully charged before going into trickle mode. Point being, the 4R seems to be keeping it charged without modification.
 

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