Solved my 3rd-generation 4Runner severe brake pedal pulsation at highway speeds

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mom

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SUMMARY:
My 4Runner developed progressively more severe pedal pulsation upon braking.

The solution was effected by performing a repeating series of aggressive rebedding runs
. The fact that rebedding is fast, free, and effective in some cases, indicates that others with similar issues may benefit from similar solutions.

I'm not saying uneven pad deposition is the cause/solution for 'your' vibration upon braking; I'm just saying it was the cause & solution for mine. YMMV


BACKGROUND:
- 8 Myths ... Holding You Back from Performing the Best Brake Job, by Andrew Markel
- The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System, by Carroll Smith
- Brake Roughness and Vibration: Causes & Solutions, by Dave Mann
- There's no such thing as 'warped' brake rotors, by Michael Block
- Avoiding Brake Judder at the Track, by Dave Zeckhausen
- Brake Rotor Shake Demystified, by Dali Racing
- Raybestos Brake Tech School, Part One: Rotors Don't Warp, by Police Fleet Manager Magazine

REBEDDING:
- Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In, by Matt Weiss
- How to Bed-in Your Brakes, by Dave Zeckhausen

Notes:

Note 1: (Not all references wholly agree.)
The various references don't all agree on all points, e.g., rotors "can" deform, but the actual word "warp" must, by necessity, assume actual distortion measurements of the rotor disassembled from the hub (keeping in mind lateral runout isn't necessarily warp; neither is disc thickness variation).

Note 2: (The well-known Tundra modification was never an option for me.)
The vaunted "Tundra modification" is not an option mainly because my '97 4Runner 2WD has 15" wheels which won't fit either the 199 mm calipers (pre 2002.5 Tundra) or the 231 mm calipers (2002.5 to 2006 Tundra after TSB).

Note 3: (Some say the often-suggested Tundra modification does not actually increase initial stopping power.)
For 4Runners with larger wheels, the Tundra's 5mm thicker rotors and 15% larger pads should theoretically allow greater heat dissipation (which, some say, doesn't increase initial stopping power apparently because the plumbing isn't changed ... but almost all say the greater heat dissipation should at least increase both kinds of fade resistance.

Note 4: (Some debate whether the Tundra modification can actually reduce shudder.):
Whether the increased heat dissipation of the Tundra modification also reduces uneven pad deposition is a healthy matter of debate with much anecdotal evidence but far fewer facts.

Note 5: (Almost all say it's critical to bed the pads and rotors properly.)
Lest anyone conclude that pad deposition, in and of itself, is a bad thing, per se, remember that braking friction is due partially to breaking covalent bonds between the pads and a (hopefully even) deposition layer on the rotor. What naturally follows is that proper rebedding is an essential component of a properly performed pad-replacement procedure.

Note 6: (Some suggest we modify our braking habits to prevent shudder.)

An understanding of the formation of uneven brake pad deposits should naturally result in a conscious change in your braking habits to reduce or eliminate further uneven pad deposition. For example, after a long hard stop, leaving the foot pressed on the brake pedal is just asking for a pad imprint. Once imprinted, the vicious cycle begins anew as explained in the references.

 

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I've bed the new brake pads on my 300ZX, but haven't had the opportunity to bed pads on either of my T4R's (bought used, haven't installed new pads yet). Pretty sure I used a similar procedure on the Z.

So you just re-bedded your existing pads and brake pulsing was eliminated or just reduced?

Would have been a grand experiment to have done on my SR5 before the Tundra upgrade...

Besides, brake pad bedding is sorta fun!
 
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So you just re-bedded your existing pads and brake pulsing was eliminated or just reduced?

Both.

In fact, I had not realized at first that the brake rebedding procedure is a great DIAGNOSTIC aid for determining the cause of the shudder.

After my first set of ten high-speed hard braking efforts, the shudder noticeably dropped both in magnitude and in the speed at which the heaviest vibration occurred (or maybe the vibrations were lessened such that I felt them less and at lower speeds ... dunno).

After my second set of high-speed rebedding in earnest, the vibrations were almost gone; and after the third set, they disappeared altogether!

If the vibration was due to suspension components, tires, 'rotor warp', etc., it would NOT have dissipated with a simple rebedding procedure.

Would have been a grand experiment to have done on my SR5 before the Tundra upgrade

Indeed!

As far as I can tell from researching, this is what the Tundra upgrade gets you ...
a) Some have shown the Tundra upgrade can not reduce "initial" stopping power (due to the plumbing remaining the same);
b) The 5mm thicker (same diameter) disc probably possibly increases heat dissipation;
c) The 15% larger pad surface area possibly increases heat dissipation (but not friction, as per item (a) above);
d) With increased heat dissipation comes better fade resistance (both types);
e) And, potentially better resistance to (uneven) brake pad deposition (remains to be proven though).

The one thing the Tundra modification can't possibly do is 'reduce warp', since brake rotors aren't warping in the first place (except in rare circumstances).
 
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As a cross reference, there is a good discussion about the disagreements among the experts over in this 4th-generation 4Runner brake "warp" thread.

Specifically, the discussions point out that the referenced experts seem to disagree whether the uneven pad deposition specifically causes brake torque variation or disc thickness variations.

They do explain that a disc thickness variation of as little as 15 microns (i.e., 0.00059") can be the cause of brake pedal pulsations while runout specifications are typically on the order of a few thousandths of an inch.
(e.g., 0.002").

The solution to removing a pad imprint, according to the references quoted, is TIME and HEAT. You heat the pads and rotors to the adherent friction temperature (typically 100°F-600°F for street pads and 600°F-1400°F for race pads) and you KEEP it there, as they say in the reference "long enough to start the pad material transfer process".

As I said in that thread, I'm going out on a limb by using this cooking example, but, what you're doing, in essence, is "melting" globs of (brake) chocolate until there is a more uniform layer on the rotor (take that example with a grain of salt ... but the point is the solution is NOT to replace the rotor unless you have to ... that's like replacing the windshield every time it gets dirty).

Here's a picture of a pad imprint from the references:
warped_5.jpg


BTW, here is a perfectly bedded rotor, only one month old, with a nice even layer of adherent friction deposits, taken from one of the most knowledgeable 4Runner owners out there!

33652d1285811586-brake-rotors-warp-easily-nicely_beddor_rotor_from_jed.resized.jpg
 
----> THREAD REVIVED :)

As far as I can tell from researching, this is what the Tundra upgrade gets you ...
a) Some have shown the Tundra upgrade can not reduce "initial" stopping power (due to the plumbing remaining the same);
b) The 5mm thicker (same diameter) disc probably possibly increases heat dissipation;
c) The 15% larger pad surface area possibly increases heat dissipation (but not friction, as per item (a) above);
d) With increased heat dissipation comes better fade resistance (both types);
e) And, potentially better resistance to (uneven) brake pad deposition (remains to be proven though).

This information about the Tundra rotors upgrade is misleading at best.

If anyone wants to know more about the Tundra upgrade I suggest you read BigFishAllDay's great write up that can be found here:


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/94923-hard-find-specs-info-measurements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html


This thread does have good information though via the links. I am not sure if the warped rotors are actually a myth though, that is an overstatement I believe.

:bat:
 
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I just had to throw this in here:
Let's skip all the scientific comparisons, notes, references and talk of covalent bonds and microns. It all comes down to this,

Bigger brakes = Better brakes.

Now isn't that simple?
 
That has already been posted...

BTW, always suspect any information from a source that sells products. Not saying that info isn't true, but it shouldn't be your single source for information.

It was already posted in this thread? I'm not seeing it. There's plenty of info out there stating the same thing though.
 
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What happens to metal when you heat it to high temperature and then rapidily cool it?

Considering my fathers jetta had 90k miles on his last brake set, without these "oh sh!t" stops to break them, which his procedure is to not nail the brakes under the break in period, but to actually use the brakes normally and to not heat them up too much, but then again thats what he told me, someone who went to Tech school for trucks and has been working in the field of trucks for 30 years (you know, a car but on much larger scale), so yeah, let me know how all your brake pads are doing at 90k miles!
 
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My rotors pulsate so much that i have to plan how to stop off of a highway... lol

I'll find some where soon to do a proper bedding...

I agree and have done all of this reaserch in the past because my TDI rotors were so small i was looking for a fix.. I put new rotors on and bedded them properly and had no issues ..

Lets see if this works.. i hope it does... but we are talking a lot of shake and hopping.. (Very doubtfull this will do it actually )I'm also going to replace my bushings soon but after the test... Just wanna see how smooth I can get it with just the bedding....

When you think about it though.. you lose lots of material on your rotors over the years. if you develop thick/thin spots over time i dont think bedding is going to save you.
 
I haven't had this problem, but I have researched it some--partially provoked by Mom. One option not discussed much is ON-CAR lathe turning of your rotors. Here is a Toyota TSB from 2009 that discusses it:

Toyota TSB #WAB2109

and a website that shows places you can get it done:

Pro-Cut Parts

The big advantage to ON-CAR turning is that minute variations in rotor alignment due to the mounting of the rotor (even slight amounts of crud) can create a high point that causes further uneven build-up. If it is due to deformation or defect of the rotor mount, even a new rotor won't fix it but this will. As I've never tried it, I'd appreciate comments.
 
I was PM'n mom but I feel my response is relevant to this thread so I am pasting a slightly edited version here.

**************************

MOM, the reason people are jumping on you about the warped vs not warped is that you are arguing about auto-mechanics based on the semantics of the english language AND you clearly don't have enough knowledge to speak as an authority on the subject. I am not sure why you are so focused on semantics, perhaps it is because you are a Lit-major but I don't want to speculate too much.


Two questions should come to mind:
Is a rotor that is no longer "true" considered warped?
Is it warped if the metal didn't actually bend but was instead given a warped shape due to particle buildup?

My answer: YES they are considered warped even despite how they became "untrue"

Definition of the word WARP
- To affect unfavorably, unfairly, or wrongly
- To turn turn aside from true, correct; see distort
- The state of being twisted or bent (common perception)
- To have a twist, a distortion, or a bias

Your implication that most mechanics are wrong (based on 10 mins of searching a topic you admit you don't understand) to say the "rotors are warped" is just not accurate based on the actual definition of the word warp/warped. You are a lit major with an MBA so you should be able to ponder this question "can the term warped apply to a rotor that is or is not actually bent" (hint: yes it can)


Also the link you got this info from is trying to sell something correct? You hold the Toyota manual in high regard but doesn't the manual mention warped rotors somewhere in it? At the end of the day I think you should just avoid trying to argue things out over the internet when they aren't your field of expertise or study. I am not a mechanic and I don't usually tell people they are wrong, this is pretty much a first on this forum for me.

I took auto-mechanics in high school and have done small things to several vehicles I have owned. Even in my own field of study, computer programming and networking, I go to the internet for answers but I don't post as an authority when I am not. While I have a basic understanding of auto-mechanics, I don't claim to be a mechanic or an authority and you should not either.

I wish the best of luck to you and I can tell you are a good person and mean well via your posts. I also like the pics and formatting. But you have to realize that there are many people on here that know a lot more than you ever will, especially since you a self proclaimed newb.

When someone reads your post about changing a LightBulb next to some of the more complex posts, it is not surprising people post LOL and *sticky for sure*

**************
 
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My rotors pulsate so much that i have to plan how to stop off of a highway... lol

I'll find some where soon to do a proper bedding...

I agree and have done all of this reaserch in the past because my TDI rotors were so small i was looking for a fix.. I put new rotors on and bedded them properly and had no issues ..

Problem with the TDI brakes is that when you wanna stop from like over 115mph you expierence some fading (thats just not when i want my brakes to go lol), although the VR6 brakes look mighty nice! :naughty:
 
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