$28k to have someone else do it:
ADD ARMOR
I'm digging the extra features:
Smoke Screen
12 volt shocker door handles
Pepper spray
Sound Deadening Project Write Up
- Thread starter DreamsOfDirt
- Start date
$28k to have someone else do it:
ADD ARMOR
I'm digging the extra features:
Smoke Screen
12 volt shocker door handles
Pepper spray
Charlievee
Senior Member
Put that much ballistic protection on a 4runner and it would never move. I like the glass idea for the windshield, maybe then i could go a week without a chip.
DragonRunner
New member
Would you say there’s little gain to the CLD layer vice the MLV? Why not just install MLV?
DreamsOfDirt
New member
I’d say they accomplish different things and depending on your goal, work together.
CLD is very helpful in improving the sound of the speakers. By reducing vibration it mimics a speaker enclosure made of wood or similarly stiff material. This makes the sound focused. Others here can chime in with the technical details on how CDL improves sound. I noticed a difference right away - especially with reducing some of the muddy mid-base.
The MLV is designed to absorb and physically block out the unwanted sound waves (e.g road noise). Again, others should feel free to chime in here with details. When installing MLV, several videos I viewed recommended installing CLD first.
Would one notice a larger noise reduction from only installing MLV vs only CLD, yes. However, doing both will reduce noise (MLV), while improving the sound of your stereo. The “right” answer depends on your goals, budget, and time. I hope this helps.
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fubarovich
Member
Im in the middle of doing SD on all 4 doors plus the hatch over this holiday break, and I couldnt be more frustrated. The first door (driver) took me over 8 hours with my OCD kicking in hard. Seriously just want to rip this shit off and just install the OEM Plus kit without SD, but will push through it.
Question for you guys: What are we doing for the large door access holes?
I attempted to use aluminum sheeting to cover them up and did a fairly good job only to realize the door skin wouldnt fit back on. After breaking most of the door clips trying to force it, I ended up ripping the aluminum covers off and now thinking of trying ABS plastic covers (cut more precisely for better fit) instead. If the plastic covers dont work, how important is it to reinstall the vapour shield? I ripped that stuff off and threw it away. Hate my life right about now!
Question for you guys: What are we doing for the large door access holes?
I attempted to use aluminum sheeting to cover them up and did a fairly good job only to realize the door skin wouldnt fit back on. After breaking most of the door clips trying to force it, I ended up ripping the aluminum covers off and now thinking of trying ABS plastic covers (cut more precisely for better fit) instead. If the plastic covers dont work, how important is it to reinstall the vapour shield? I ripped that stuff off and threw it away. Hate my life right about now!
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I would not say there is little gain to the sound reduction using CLD. It just comes at a high cost of money and weight. If you put enough of it on, it will block the sound. As said above, they have different functions. Sound waves need a solid/rigid surface to bounce off of. If your surface is vibrating from the sound wave, this will cause the sound waves to start hitting each other and cancelling themselves out, similar to wiring one speaker out of phase.
The typical car door has a lot of flex in the outer skin which is why it dents so easily by car doors and shopping carts. The CLD adds a stiffening element to those panels. It reduces the flex and reduces the vibrations caused by speakers and driving. You don't need a lot of CLD to do the job. 25-30% is adequate to reduce most vibrations in the panel, but many people, myself included, will try to cover as much as possible. (the more is better mentality). It's generally not going to hurt anything except for weight increase and maybe not getting your door panels to fit back on.
MLV is strictly for sound blocking. Unless it was secured incredibly well, it would have little affect on vibration dampening. It has to be decoupled (physically separated) from the surface to work properly, hence the reason for the closed cell foam. This physical separation would keep it from properly dampening vibrations in the panels.
[MENTION=366024]fubarovich[/MENTION] As far as the door skins not fitting back on, did you remove the Styrofoam blocks at the bottom of the door skins? They will prevent the panel from reattaching. (I also assume you separated the window clip trim piece from the door skin. It is nearly impossible to put the panel back on with them attached.)
I just used some CDL over the openings. If you are doing the MLV, it's not a huge deal to seal up everything first. You will never get it air tight. Once you place the MLV over the foam, you will seal that all the way around the door. (Make sure it stays inside the boundary of the clips. Trying to go around them does not work very well.) But you will still need to cut access slots for the door and lock cables and door handle and such.
My suggestion is don't over think it and keep it simple. It is a car and it will never be truly quiet, especially with the single pain glass in the 4Runner
fubarovich
Member
[MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] I'm not really sure which styrofoam blocks you're referring, my door skin does not appear to have any styrofoam attached to it. Are you referring to the black perforated plastic block thats welded to the rest of the skin and fits into the door access holes? The only piece of styrofoam I noticed was the big white block bolted to the outer door tube which I reattached after applying CLD and CCF. I am not going install MLV so I wanted to provide some additional backing to the CLD over the access holes. My fitment issue isnt with the top window clip trim, but with the black plastic block I described above once the large access hole is covered with aluminum.
Another question for you guys...Unfortunately I have to do this install outside and the temperature is below the recommended 53F for CLD adhesion. Can someone explain how to properly use a heat gun so I don't ruin the paint on my doors? Thanks
Vapor shield is important. I'd get some poly from the hardware store and re-make it.
Heat gun just get it warm. Buy one from harbor freight, use the lowest temp and speed, and just fan it around the area until the door and CLD are warm to the touch. Doesn't have to be hot or anything.
Heat gun just get it warm. Buy one from harbor freight, use the lowest temp and speed, and just fan it around the area until the door and CLD are warm to the touch. Doesn't have to be hot or anything.
On mine (which was a 2011) that block was removable (might not have been Styrofoam, it has been a few years) and had to be removed if you covered that large hole in the door panel. It is just a spacer and if you can figure out how to remove most of it, your panel should go back on. ( I removed the whole thing then built it back up a little with the thermal barrier to help keep it from vibrating)
As far as the heat gun, you can get it pretty hot before you damage the paint. Far hotter than you can put your hands on, so if you warm it, you should be fine.
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fubarovich
Member
Quick question for you guys..I ended up removing and trashing the factory plastic vapor shield on my front doors and didnt get a chance to cover the large & small access holes in the doors. The plan is to get ABS/acrylic sheeting to cover the holes, but it's going to take me some time and the outside temps are too cold right now to resume CLD installation on the inner door metal. Am I risking any damage to the door or the speaker by driving around without any vapor barriers in the front doors? Thank you.
Any reason to choose ABS over acrylic for the covers? My library has public laser cutters that work with acrylic, but for ABS I'll have to outsource.
Any reason to choose ABS over acrylic for the covers? My library has public laser cutters that work with acrylic, but for ABS I'll have to outsource.
VB.TRD.Pro
New member
If you live in a climate with a lot of rain, leaving the truck out in the elements or driving around without the vapor barrier may cause your door panels to warp or deform. Moisture will enter the inside of the door down the felt strip on the external facing part of the glass. One of my Hondas had a defect which allowed moisture to enter even with the barrier causing the arm rest area to wrinkle and deform over time and have seen speakers with mold from similar situations.
Not sure how long it'll be until you have your long term solution in place but some 6 mil plastic liner from Home Depot and some butyl strips should at least help until then.
cb1111
Member
There are two things to consider and that is what you expect.
If you are looking at sound deadening, then you need to cover all of the areas where external noise gets in - floor, firewall, wheel wells and so forth.
If you are looking to reduce vibration (to "clarify" the audio system), then you need to add dynamat or the like to the doors - but - there is no need to add lots of product. A 6-12 inch square in the center (roughly) of the panel will dampen the vibrations sufficiently.
If you are looking at sound deadening, then you need to cover all of the areas where external noise gets in - floor, firewall, wheel wells and so forth.
If you are looking to reduce vibration (to "clarify" the audio system), then you need to add dynamat or the like to the doors - but - there is no need to add lots of product. A 6-12 inch square in the center (roughly) of the panel will dampen the vibrations sufficiently.
Brockman82
New member
So my question is if I'm most likely just going to messing with the doors is it worth doing CCF and MLV or am I better off just doing the CLD mats and not spending the money? Just trying to figure out if it's worth doing it because it sounds like the benefits are results are minimal.
Rapid_Amble
New member
I put in dynamat and ccf but not mlv. Totally worth it imo. Noise from the window is the same obviously but other noise is muted.
DallasTRDPro
Member
Would adding CLD to the hood stop it from vibrating??
ghost.runner
New member
Dynamat is pretty great
Mudhorn
New member
Great thread to dispel my own thoughts and lack of knowledge about noise reduction. Appreciate all the inputs.
How much room is available in the rear hatch given the window?
Love it that others have crazy thoughts evolved from practical upgrades. Uparmor will be needed when you Overland Iraq. A positive is you would get a great workout opening and closing doors, especially the rear hatch. Plus is great noise reduction from my experiences riding in armored Hilux’s. Just upgrade the windows as well.
How much room is available in the rear hatch given the window?
Love it that others have crazy thoughts evolved from practical upgrades. Uparmor will be needed when you Overland Iraq. A positive is you would get a great workout opening and closing doors, especially the rear hatch. Plus is great noise reduction from my experiences riding in armored Hilux’s. Just upgrade the windows as well.
CLD mats are going to block sound because they're there, but they're not the best at it. It's like handing a sheet in the doorway; yes it'll work, but it's not the best solution.
MLV will block far more sound than CLD tiles will, and CLD you'll have to use a ton to accomplish what you're doing. CLD should have 25% surface-area coverage, anything more than that is un-necessary / exponentially-diminishing returns.
So yes, it'll work, but if you're going to go through all the effort of using a ton of CLD material to try and sound-deaden the doors, why not just use some CLD and a sheet of MLV that's been fitted?
