Sound deadening -- WOW!!!

[GrantK]

I finished installing sound deadening to the main cabin floor and doors last night and took it for a test drive today. I drove on city streets, freeway, rough streets and a gravel road. The difference is night and day. The entire drive I was trying to convince myself that I was imagining the difference but even allowing for wishful thinking it is much quieter. Tapping on the outside gives a nice dull thud with no resonance at all. The stereo's bottom end also sounds better even with stock speakers, probably do to the Ensolite. I only wish I had taken SPL measurements before and after to have an accurate comparison.
:bravo::banana:arty:



Here's what I added:
Floor: One layer of RAMMmat. I still need to do under the center console but that will happen when I pull the console to install switches and other goodies.

Door Outer skin, One layer of RAAMmat and one layer of Ensolite. I left a good inch at the bottom for the weeping holes and didn't go over the horizontal brace bar to make sure and moisture didn't get trapped. I did put a strip on the front of the brace bar to deaden and vibration it picked up.

Door Inner skin: One layer of RAAMmat. I pulled it tight over the holes instead of re-using the factory plastic film.

I estimate the weight added to front doors is about 3 lbs., the rear doors have less of course.


I can hardly wait to do the roof, cargo area floor, side panels and lift-gate. I also need to find some filler mat to go on the back of the panels and behind the roof liner. For that I want some sort of thick synthetic felt or other matting that will help more with temperature than sound.

 

[MarkWalker]

I finished installing sound deadening to the main cabin floor and doors last night and took it for a test drive today. I drove on city streets, freeway, rough streets and a gravel road. The difference is night and day. The entire drive I was trying to convince myself that I was imagining the difference but even allowing for wishful thinking it is much quieter. Tapping on the outside gives a nice dull thud with no resonance at all. The stereo's bottom end also sounds better even with stock speakers, probably do to the Ensolite. I only wish I had taken SPL measurements before and after to have an accurate comparison.
:bravo::banana:arty:



Here's what I added:
Floor: One layer of RAMMmat. I still need to do under the center console but that will happen when I pull the console to install switches and other goodies.

Door Outer skin, One layer of RAAMmat and one layer of Ensolite. I left a good inch at the bottom for the weeping holes and didn't go over the horizontal brace bar to make sure and moisture didn't get trapped. I did put a strip on the front of the brace bar to deaden and vibration it picked up.

Door Inner skin: One layer of RAAMmat. I pulled it tight over the holes instead of re-using the factory plastic film.

I estimate the weight added to front doors is about 3 lbs., the rear doors have less of course.


I can hardly wait to do the roof, cargo area floor, side panels and lift-gate. I also need to find some filler mat to go on the back of the panels and behind the roof liner. For that I want some sort of thick synthetic felt or other matting that will help more with temperature than sound.

So how long did it take, and what $$ do you have invested??

Thanks!

 

[mikebontoft]

so you just pulled the carpet for the floor deadening?

curious on cost as well... tired of hearing the ticking of my engine

 

[jangoforhire]

This is on my list as well. Although I think I will just drop it off at Duc's shop. Sound deadening is one of those things that seems like it would be extremely tedious and time consuming.

 

[mikebontoft]

seems like it. I know there's a lot more electrical connections and tabs etc on fifth gens versus my second, though.

I used to entirely strip out the interior of my focus every weekend (minus the dash and drivers seat) got pretty good at it... 20 minutes in or out. the 94 seems easier.

 

[GrantK]

Yes, I pulled the entire rear seat, front seats I did one at a time. trim panels then pulled the carpet up and laid down the RAMMmat. There's a LOT of cutting and fitting to get around all sorts of things. I also am going to need a new pair of kitchen scissors.

Doors I did each in an evening, about 2.5-3 hrs a piece.
Floor about 8 hours. Times include disassembly, install and reassembly.

Cost, I'm not sure. I purchased it back in the spring and got enough to do everything. If I recall, I spent about $200.

[EDIT]
Rethinking the coast, I'm pretty sure that $200 is WAY low. I vaguely remember joking with friends back in the spring that I had $500 worth of deadening sitting waiting to get installed, so I'm going to up the cost to $500.
[/EDIT]

 

[mikebontoft]

Yes, I pulled the entire rear seat, front seats I did one at a time. trim panels then pulled the carpet up and laid down the RAMMmat. There's a LOT of cutting and fitting to get around all sorts of things. I also am going to need a new pair of kitchen scissors.

Doors I did each in an evening, about 2.5-3 hrs a piece.
Floor about 8 hours. Times include disassembly, install and reassembly.

Cost, I'm not sure. I purchased it back in the spring and got enough to do everything. If I recall, I spent about $200.

that's not bad at all

 

[GrantK]

This is on my list as well. Although I think I will just drop it off at Duc's shop. Sound deadening is one of those things that seems like it would be extremely tedious and time consuming.

It is tedious and time consuming, which equates to labor costs. Figure I've got about close to 20hrs into so far and I still have the roof, tailgate and entire cargo area to do. I don't know Duc's labor rates but at $50/hr for labor that $1000 plus materials for the floor and doors.

 

[G8RB8_12SR5]

It is tedious and time consuming, which equates to labor costs. Figure I've got about close to 20hrs into so far and I still have the roof, tailgate and entire cargo area to do. I don't know Duc's labor rates but at $50/hr for labor that $1000 plus materials for the floor and doors.

Ha I don't know if it will be that bad. I have a friend that just opened his own car audio shop and he quoted me $700 for .60 Accumat for the floors from the cargo area to the pedals (including rear wheel wells) as well as trunk lid and inner and outer in all 4 doors. He's charging me $400 for parts and 50 cents on the dollar for part cost for labor (about $200) plus tax. I'll probably go that route because of the labor intensity and I'll combine it with new speakers, new head unit, and wiring since all the panels are already off. Can't wait to do it.

 

[mikebontoft]

Well you have to remember, those guys do that stuff probably every day. they know the shortcuts.

 

[Envy]

Seems like alot to just deaden the sound. I guess I'll just turn my stereo up lol congrats though that deff determination to take on that job.

 

[Hawaiian4runner]

It is tedious and time consuming, which equates to labor costs. Figure I've got about close to 20hrs into so far and I still have the roof, tailgate and entire cargo area to do. I don't know Duc's labor rates but at $50/hr for labor that $1000 plus materials for the floor and doors.

Sounds like a lot of work but well worth it I'm sure. Did the outer skin and got rid of the tin can sound a while back. Based on your experience, I'll be adding ensolite and then take on the floor. Tailgate is a pita. Very cramped. Did you mat the inside of the inner skin or the outside? For stereo, inside probably more effective but seems like another pita.

 

[Randyman...]

It is tedious and time consuming, which equates to labor costs.

I have a friend that just opened his own car audio shop and he quoted me $700.

Well you have to remember, those guys do that stuff probably every day. they know the shortcuts.

Exactly. There is a HUGE difference in understanding the concepts of the fabrication process and actually being proficient in materializing those concepts (this is true of most anything). Unless you actually strip interiors on a regular basis - you'll never match the speed AND precision of a pro-installer's sound deadening capabilities and efficiencies IMNSHO. It took me over 14 days (spread out over a month +) to complete the audio install in my T4R (almost done!) - and I STILL had to out-source a few items to a "pro"! I took some vacation time and used up my weekends, so you have to consider the "cost" of that as well (used up lots of benefit time and general "free time" due to my inefficiencies that a "pro" would have done in 1/4 the time)...

"DIY" in any capacity isn't generally looked at as a time-saver (any "pro" will generally destroy a shade-tree DIY'er in efficiency and experience). If your time is worth more than what you'd pay someone to execute the task at hand, then go ahead and pay them to do it! Or, go-ahead and DIY if you you are really into "being a part of" your install and the associated self-gratification rewards (assuming your capabilities are up to par). I'm in with the latter for sure - this is the first time I've paid anyone for their audio installation capabilities in my 20+ years of car audio...

:cowboy:

 

[GrantK]

Did you mat the inside of the inner skin or the outside? For stereo, inside probably more effective but seems like another pita.

Cabin side, everything bolts to the backside and would require full disassembly to do.

 

[G8RB8_12SR5]

Exactly. There is a HUGE difference in understanding the concepts of the fabrication process and actually being proficient in materializing those concepts (this is true of most anything). Unless you actually strip interiors on a regular basis - you'll never match the speed AND precision of a pro-installer's sound deadening capabilities and efficiencies IMNSHO. It took me over 14 days (spread out over a month +) to complete the audio install in my T4R (almost done!) - and I STILL had to out-source a few items to a "pro"! I took some vacation time and used up my weekends, so you have to consider the "cost" of that as well (used up lots of benefit time and general "free time" due to my inefficiencies that a "pro" would have done in 1/4 the time)...

"DIY" in any capacity isn't generally looked at as a time-saver (any "pro" will generally destroy a shade-tree DIY'er in efficiency and experience). If your time is worth more than what you'd pay someone to execute the task at hand, then go ahead and pay them to do it! Or, go-ahead and DIY if you you are really into "being a part of" your install and the associated self-gratification rewards (assuming your capabilities are up to par). I'm in with the latter for sure - this is the first time I've paid anyone for their audio installation capabilities in my 20+ years of car audio...

:cowboy:

Agreed, that's why I'm paying someone else to do the sound deadening and audio and I'll save my DIY for fabbing a custom cargo drawer. GrantK, glad to hear a good review on this (pun intended), looking forward to when I finally get it done.

 

[fxoffroad]

I know nothing about sound deadening, except for the basic concept and the materials used (as discussed).
Where/who would I call to have this done? (any Front Range specific recommendations appreciated too)

 

[GrantK]

Check out auto sound shops. Just walk in and ask them about it. You want one that will do full coverage, not just strategic strips, on the outer skin of the doors to start, next priority is the floor. Find out what type of deadening they use, do they offer different types and do they do multi-layers like I did. The shops that offer the most options should be the better ones. Ask to see their shop. Is it clean, organized and well lit, do they have enough space to work on your truck without risking it getting scratched, do they a clean spot to store your panels while working on your truck.

 

[Biggcrisp]

Was there any factory installed sound deadening anywhere?

 

[Go JayBee]

I finished installing sound deadening to the main cabin floor and doors last night and took it for a test drive today. I drove on city streets, freeway, rough streets and a gravel road. The difference is night and day. The entire drive I was trying to convince myself that I was imagining the difference but even allowing for wishful thinking it is much quieter. Tapping on the outside gives a nice dull thud with no resonance at all. The stereo's bottom end also sounds better even with stock speakers, probably do to the Ensolite. I only wish I had taken SPL measurements before and after to have an accurate comparison.
:bravo::banana:arty:



Here's what I added:
Floor: One layer of RAMMmat. I still need to do under the center console but that will happen when I pull the console to install switches and other goodies.

Door Outer skin, One layer of RAAMmat and one layer of Ensolite. I left a good inch at the bottom for the weeping holes and didn't go over the horizontal brace bar to make sure and moisture didn't get trapped. I did put a strip on the front of the brace bar to deaden and vibration it picked up.

Door Inner skin: One layer of RAAMmat. I pulled it tight over the holes instead of re-using the factory plastic film.

I estimate the weight added to front doors is about 3 lbs., the rear doors have less of course.


I can hardly wait to do the roof, cargo area floor, side panels and lift-gate. I also need to find some filler mat to go on the back of the panels and behind the roof liner. For that I want some sort of thick synthetic felt or other matting that will help more with temperature than sound.

WOW!!!
I applaud you on all your hard work. No turning back now, huh?

I too did my outer door skins (making sure to avoid covering the weep holes and space behind the brace bar) in all doors. And managed to get a fair amount of material behind the tailgate speakers. As a side note to tailgate, you may end up (as I did) replacing the struts due to the added weight of "real" speakers and the deadening.

I did not try to add any deadening to the inside door panels as I've seen many do. What I did do, was to take special measures to "de-couple" the speaker from the door panel by laying a bead of "duct seal" (a clay-like material) to the back of the speaker before mounting it.

Overall material cost for deadening was right around $100. I would say that I attained around a 75% improvement for that cost. Not sure if that last 25%is really worth the added material cost and labor, though. Afterall, we are talking about a motor vehicle subjected to a variety of conditions.

Some background on my acoustic experience:
One of my hobbies is the restoration of vintage loud speakers, specifically the early "AR"s (AR-2, AR-2ax, AR-3, AR-5, AR-4x, AR-7, etc). These date back to the early 50's when the concept of the Acoustic Suspension System was patented by Edgar Villchur. In simple terms, the Acoustic Suspension System allowed a small cabinet to sound like a larger one, but also required more power (watts) to drive the speaker. The cabinets are virtually "air-tight" and are filled with a precicely calculated weight of fiberglass, based on the size of the drivers and the cabinet volume.

All that being said: you will not gain anything from lining the door panels, other than reduce vibration from the speaker itself. And you will never be able to make the door "air-tight".

Again, I applaud you on your hard work. If your goal is strictly to reduce "road noise", then "mission accomplished". Wether it will make your sound system any better: you WILL be able to actually "hear" what the speakers put out but IMO will not make them perform any better. eace:

 

[Jtraskell]

Was there any factory installed sound deadening anywhere?

Yes and no. Not "factory", but in my case it was done at the port, SE Toyota. See below last couple of sentences.. What did they do? Not sure, but I do not have any road noise problems and my doors sound really solid when they close. Whatever they did, they did good. And by the way, did NOT pay the bottom line sticker price! Be safe and have a very Merry Christmas.