Biggcrisp,
There is some factory deadening on the floor. It runs from the front foot wells to the back seat but not under the back seat. It isn’t much and isn’t full cover but better than nothing.
deekoi,
Sorry, no pics.
Go JayBee,
There are a few points I disagree with. The purpose of putting material between the speaker and its mounting surface is not to acoustically decouple; it’s to stop buzzing caused by differences in the two surfaces and flexing of the speaker frame. The old method is to use clay the modern method is to use foam, even the cheap factory speakers use foam. There is very little vibration transfered to the door panel directly from the speaker, most transfer is from the air. You can prove this by just touching the outside of the doors, with or without deadening and you’ll feel it. Apply heavy deadening to both the inner and outer panel reduces this and help stop them from acting as sounding boards. It also helps keep the outside noise out and prevent the door panels from resonating and buzzing and rattling.
Lining the panels does make a difference. It can plainly be heard during listening tests with the engine off comparing a door with and a door without the material. It is also why modern enclosures put material on the back surface of an enclosure. It also reduces the number of times a sound wave can bounce around inside an enclosure which causes distortion.
An enclosure doesn’t need to be air tight, this is why ported enclosures work. Almost any enclosure will improve the speaker’s bass response. This is easy to demonstrate by just pulling a speaker and while listening, place it back into the door. You can even put a speaker in one end of an open tube and get better bass response. The more you reduce or otherwise control the air movement, at audio frequencies, in an enclosure the better, which is why replacing the factory plastic film with something that doesn’t move as easy and sealing the door as much as possible makes a obviously noticeable improvement in the speakers bottom end.