Replaced shocks on all 4 corners yesterday using this method. I did it by myself but would have rather had some help! I am sore today. A couple of notes for those that mat attempt:
1. Make sure you have a pry bar that will fit in the LCA pry hole. I didn't, and used a crowbar over the LCA and under the frame to pry down. On the passenger side, this didn't work so well, so I used an old floor jack handle in same manner. Was a real PITA by myself, pretty sure I pulled a few muscles and had to stop several times, step back, and regain my composure. This is where help would be nice. Holding the pry bar down while trying to feed shock through spring and top hat hole you needs three arms! I did not loosen the LCA bushing nuts oiut of fear of hosing up alignment. Won't be able to get it into alignment shop very soon.
2. I placed a bottle jack under the front KDSS cylinder after disconnecting and removing the end link brackets. When re-installing the brackets, the bottle jack was great for manipulating the sway bar by simply retracting the KDSS cylinder. One word of caution as others have mentioned. The top bolts for the end link bracket really try hard to cross thread, make sure you are straight-on into the welded nut on the bracket. When doing the rears, i placed a jack stand under the rear axle to keep from dropping too far, then used the bottle jack to push it back up to seat the shock bushing. Didn't have to disconnect the sway bar at all.
3. I made the mistake of torquing everything as I went along and finished each corner. Now, I re-read the instructions and realize I should have torqued everything under load with the wheels in the ground. So, I will have get back under there loosen and re-torque. Unfortunately for me, this will have to wait until the weekend. Hope it doesn't cause me any issues.
Thanks to sp8ball and all who created this thread and info! Saved myself the $600 in labor the dealer wanted to install!