Can't get my rear struts out with the strap wrench method and the vice grip route yields no grip. Going with metal blade sawzall tomorrow after work. Anyone tried that route at the top of the rear strut with success? Tired of this rust!
That thread has meandered a bit, and now that the lift is installed I wanted to start a fresh one with the information I obtained and the "How To" video I put together for the install process.
I had a few requirements for my lift. I didn't want more than 2" of lift. I wanted to use as many factory parts as possible since I knew they'd have a higher chance of availability down the road, and I didn't want to spend a fortune on the setup. I also needed a NICE highway ride and absolutely did NOT want anything harsh at all. The 02' 4Runner had almost 100K miles on it so the suspension needed some freshening up and this was a good opportunity to upgrade.
After advice from folks here, THANKS!, I went with Tundra TRD Coils from a 2000 - 2006 model Tundra, Bilstein Tundra 5100 shocks that are 5 way adjustable up front, and OME 906 coils for the rear also with Tundra 5100 shocks. Wheeler's advertises the rear shocks as 4Runner specific, but the actual part number is from a 2000 - 2006 Tundra like the front.
The Tundra TRD coils you want are marked with a Yellow/Yellow paint mark on one coil and Yellow/Blue paint mark on the other. You can find these in salvage yards, but the ones I found in my area weren't much cheaper than brand new so I just got new ones from an online dealer. Google search and you'll find some deals as the prices change quite often it seems. If you wanna try the salvage yard route you can search Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market.
Here's the parts you'll need:
Tundra TRD Coils:
Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100 Y/Y
Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090 Y/B
Tundra TRD Bilstein 5100 Shocks:
Front Part Number: 24-188265
Rear Part Number: 24-100144 (Wheeler's lists these as BIL 4R5100)
Old Man Emu 906 springs
Tundra Coil Spring Isolators Monroe P/N 907926
Everything else can be re-used and there is no need for a diff drop or adjustable pan hard bar for 2" of lift. If you go more than that then you should look in to those additions.
The ride is fantastic. It's firm but compliant and I would describe it as better than stock. The suspension soaks up bumps with just a faint thump that you barely feel in the cabin. The 5100 shocks are awesome. I got exactly 2" of lift as you'll see in the video as I took measurements before and after to show exactly how much was gained. The install wasn't too bad, but I got lucky with the rear top shock bolts so YMMV.
Hopefully this video helps some folks out there with the install. I tried to cover everything. You can watch it in HD on Youtube if your internet connection supports it.
Here's some pics along the upgrade process:
Before new tires and wheels. Stock suspension IS TRD wheels and stock tires.
After 265/75R15 Bridgestone Dueller A/T Revo 2 tires and Level 8 MK6 wheels. To me, the larger tires upset the lines of the vehicle at stock height. I was getting just a bit of rubbing on the driver side inner fender only.
After 2" lift. For me this is perfect. Not too high and gives nice body lines and proportions for the tire/wheel combo.
Front bilstein/trd install complete - few questions
Hi Speedy,
First and foremost thank you for the awesome write up. It's still helping people today!
So my setup is a tad different (wheels and tires)
Wheels: FN Five Star 16x8 -25 offset
Tires: 265/75/16 Dynapro ATM RF10
I followed your video to the "T" and im experiencing rubbing on the front end where the running board end cap touches the tires on both driver and passenger side.
Im currently on the same lowest setting you are on for the 5100s. What would the implications be if i raised the bilsteins up to the next notch? Id rather not remove or trim the running boards if I dont need to - looks awesome with them on
Also, in your video it looks like the "after" measurements in the rear are about .5" higher than the fronts. Do you think it will level out?
First and foremost thank you for the awesome write up. It's still helping people today!
So my setup is a tad different (wheels and tires)
Wheels: FN Five Star 16x8 -25 offset
Tires: 265/75/16 Dynapro ATM RF10
I followed your video to the "T" and im experiencing rubbing on the front end where the running board end cap touches the tires on both driver and passenger side.
Im currently on the same lowest setting you are on for the 5100s. What would the implications be if i raised the bilsteins up to the next notch? Id rather not remove or trim the running boards if I dont need to - looks awesome with them on
Also, in your video it looks like the "after" measurements in the rear are about .5" higher than the fronts. Do you think it will level out?
If I were you, I'd ditch the running boards altogether. Get some tube steps or sliders and call it a day.
I've not run on the 2nd perch, so I'm not sure I can't give any good info. I can tell you that you need to be mindful of the CV angle so as not to wear out the boots.
If I were you, I'd ditch the running boards altogether. Get some tube steps or sliders and call it a day.
I've not run on the 2nd perch, so I'm not sure I can't give any good info. I can tell you that you need to be mindful of the CV angle so as not to wear out the boots.
Did a little more digging, looks like the tire is actually rubbing on that bolt head/fender liner in the picture above so removing the running boards most likely wont do anything unfortunately
Looking at the Bilstein diagram ive attached - will it be a total of a 2.65" lift? (One notch up adds .65")
Lastly do you or anyone know the negative effects of going the additional notch? Ive "read" a 3" lift is where you have to do all the safety precautions, diff drop etc.
Not sure on the shock measurement question, but in KISS terms, did you try tightening the bolt a few turns? That may just do the trick. I have about 1/4" or a bit more between that area and my tire.
A few things, maybe this isn't the right place for this but I'm having a heck of time trying to find anything.
First, has anyone had any luck tracking down some coils for this job that aren't from a salvaged vehicle/anyone wanting to get rid of theirs with less than 20k miles on them? I really don't want to spend $200 bucks a pop for these coils.
Second, has anyone heard of any alternative coils that I could use that would still achieve the 2 inch lift of this build? 3 inches is too much!
When I was parts hunting to do that lift, the salvage yard was only $100 cheaper total for the parts than buying new if you go to one of the good places that offer discounts. From memory I think I had about $800 total in the whole thing which was super cheap to me. That's from 5 or so years ago memory though.