Spiker Engineering ULTIMATE Lift Hood Struts

4Runner4Leon

Senior Member
Spiker Engineering has released its new line of ULTIMATE Lift hood struts, which allow the hood to open effortlessly to a height of up to 8" above stock. The extra lighting and access that goes along with the extra height comes in handy whether you're just checking the oil or airing up, or changing your timing belt or doing the valve cover gaskets. And without the prop rod in your way!

Check out the clear access to the engine bay with the hood struts:

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To minimize drilling additional holes in the truck, this kit was designed to make maximum use of existing mounting points, limiting permanent alterations to just two small holes drilled in each side of the underside hood reinforcement.

With the struts installed, you pop the hood open and raise it a few inches with just a fingertip - then the struts take over and lift the hood gently and firmly to its final position.

The kit consists of 100% USA Made OEM-quality components, no cheap off-the-shelf offshore stuff here: heavy gauge brackets powder coated in gloss black; premium struts sized precisely for the 4Runner's hood weight and geometry; and extra heavy duty multigrip rivets that can accommodate even oversized holes without the need for a backup washer.

The kit is easily installed with common tools and a rivet gun, in about 30 minutes. During installation, you choose the hood open height, from stock to up to 8" higher. The hood will then open to that position every time.

All parts and hardware needed for installation are included in the kit:

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The ULTIMATE Lift hood strut kits are available at Spiker Engineering.
 
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I've been looking into replacing my hood prop-rod with some gas struts, but I'm not really thrilled with any of the approaches I came across so far.

I don't like the brackets that Redline Tuning uses, they seem a bit cheesy, and IMO a bit overpriced. I also looked at the Ritzy4Runner Landcruiser strut approach, but it (like Redline Tuning) more or less opens the hood to stock height. I also think that Landcruiser struts have way too much force output for the hood's weight, putting unnecessary bending loads into the hood attachments during closing.

I'm on the tall side, and constantly hit my head against the corner of the bug shield when the hood is open. So I'd like to get some struts that open the hood higher, to give me more clearance and working room.

I've been doing lots of reading about struts, design considerations, sizing, etc etc. Suffice it to say there's more to it than one would think, so my hat is off to those who do this for a living. Nonetheless, I think I am close to a workable solution.

Then I started thinking, is there a market for a kit if I put one together? Just want to gauge the interest in a kit like this, if I could get it out to you guys for probably under $100.

Here is what I have in mind, the current opening position, and what I am working on, about 6" higher when open:



(the picture on the right is just a broom handle holding up the hood in the proposed position, the struts would be mounted in a more conventional arrangement) :D.

Thoughts, comments, or darts are all appreciated.

I think there was another member on here working on this, i believe there was an issue with being able to close. Strut length, and bracket placement comes to mind. I really do not remember who he was, but i think he got something to work, but not sure.
 
Check the hood struts on a first gen Sequoia. Might be an option, and OEM Toyota struts last a longgggg time.
 
So I have a working prototype, here is how it compares to the Redline Tuning kit:



It opens taller than RL Tuning, and requires fewer drilled holes. It works beautifully on my '97 - the struts take over the opening after the hood is lifted about 12-18", and it comes to a nice firm stop at the top. When closing, it needs some force to get it to start closing (not too wimpy, and not a big heave-ho), and then closes and latches on its own, or maybe with a slight encouragement :).
 
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Subaru hoods (well, ones with standard prop rods) have a second position for the prop rod that holds the hood near vertical. I tried to find a good picture but failed. Its a *very* nice thing when working on the car. You can pull a motor with the hood still on!

Most Toyota hoods have limit notches on the hinges that limit the opening angle. With those ground off, you can probably drill a second location for the stock prop rod and hold it almost fully open...

-Charlie
 
I love this idea. The newer rigs actually have less equipment on the inner fenders/aprons, so- if it works on a '97- there shouldn't be any issues on later rigs.
Are the brackets something you made by hand, had made, or retrofitted from another application? I was able to do this on my '92 4Runner by using balls that threaded into existing holes in the inner fenders, and drilled/tapped the hinges for the upper bolts. Used struts made for VW hood lift application. Maybe you did something similar, and don't even need brackets [emoji1360]
 
Most Toyota hoods have limit notches on the hinges that limit the opening angle. With those ground off, you can probably drill a second location for the stock prop rod and hold it almost fully open...

What limited travel on my hood was where the hinges hit the cowl trim panel. That's where I set my "max lift" point - though like you said, I bet that it could open further if I cut away some of the cowl trim.

Of course the higher the lift, the longer the required stroke, which is why this became a research project. The Landcruiser struts don't have nearly the needed stroke to open the hood this high.
 
I love this idea. The newer rigs actually have less equipment on the inner fenders/aprons, so- if it works on a '97- there shouldn't be any issues on later rigs.
Are the brackets something you made by hand, had made, or retrofitted from another application? I was able to do this on my '92 4Runner by using balls that threaded into existing holes in the inner fenders, and drilled/tapped the hinges for the upper bolts. Used struts made for VW hood lift application. Maybe you did something similar, and don't even need brackets [emoji1360]

Hey Tyler, thanks for the feedback! For the prototype, I used some very heavy gauge OEM brackets at the hood. They are each held with two M8 bolts, so I installed a pair of rivnuts for those. I think that rivnuts are a bit "out there" for most folks, so for the kit I may go with more conventional brackets and 3/16" steel rivets. It'll still be super stout.
 
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I've been using my hood strut kit for several months now, and I can honestly say that it's been the best mod I've made to my truck so far. So between my experience with the kit, as well as JZiggy's install (which did require a slight relocation of the cruise control module, probably a feature of 3RZ-FE motors), and feedback from other folks I've sold the kit to, I think the kit is ready for prime time. See the first post for ordering details.
 
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Great idea and I am also a fan of struts. That prop rod really does get in the way when you are doing some major engine work.

I have the Redline struts and they are great but these do look a bit beefier. If you live in a cold climate then bigger struts are nice since they still have the power to open regardless.
 

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