I'm not terribly great at spray painting to make it look smooth and even. The receiver is on and I'm not taking it off so I'll have to paint it as is. There is rust and pitting on the sides of the receiver, not so much on the front that you're always looking at. I plan to cover the rust holes with a layer/patch of JB Fiberweld. One friend suggested filling it with spray foam, but that's looks like it can be a mess. When it comes to spray paint itself, what's the best method to not have it look all globby and messy? Short strokes from a distance? Just gently hit the spray button and go over it easy? I figured less is more, if I don't apply enough paint I can always add more rather than over doint it. I'll post some before and after when all is said and done. Thanks for any input. For some reason my pics are not coming through.
Spray painting a reciver hitch, installed.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Is your hitch full of rusted through holes or just pits?
I mostly clean the steel as good as i can then put a rust inhibitor on the steel. Like expoxy primer or corroseal etc. Then a coat of kb seal or equivalent with a uv protectant top coat on.
If it's rusted through. You may want to weld the holes shut and not use it at all for towing. Unless you can really weld good and can repair it properly to get all its strength back.
Another option is to super clean it a coat of rust inhibitor expoxy primer then a layer of fiberglass resin then paint it. The fiberglass resin gives it a layer water and oxygen can't get through.
However, how long it lasts depends on how good of a job you dud preeping the metal.
On spray paint light even coats. With your spray nozzle perpendicular to the surface I believe.
I mostly just brush or foam brush the paint on myself.
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I have no intentions of towing anything, and yes one side is rusted through. I just want to band-aid this eye sore.
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I'd add more details to your answer Brillo but Im' driving.
I have no means or tools to weld that's why I got the JB fiber glass kit. I was told I can lay it over the hole, let it cure and paint over it. I know it wont last forever. I'd just like it to look as clean as possible, Thank you all again.
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I'd add more details to your answer Brillo but Im' driving.
I have no means or tools to weld that's why I got the JB fiber glass kit. I was told I can lay it over the hole, let it cure and paint over it. I know it wont last forever. I'd just like it to look as clean as possible, Thank you all again.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Very common the passenger side is Rot the driver side is the drain hole..
If band aide fixing. You can use fiberglass cloth and resin like I did on my hatch on my build profile.
My one hitch was 10x worse then that when we fixed it with steel.
I could fix that but your too far away.. Another rust belt fellow. K feel your pain.
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If band aide fixing. You can use fiberglass cloth and resin like I did on my hatch on my build profile.
My one hitch was 10x worse then that when we fixed it with steel.
I could fix that but your too far away..
Another rust belt fellow. K feel your pain. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
phattyduck
Elite Member
Why not take it off and leave it off? And while you are at it, hit that frame and everything underneath with something to hold off the rest of the frame rusting more than it has (some oil based product, etc.).I have no intentions of towing anything, and yes one side is rusted through. I just want to band-aid this eye sore.
-Charlie
Unless you want to drive it up here and I will weld that hole shut for you and grind it back down. Once that's done unless the bottom is rotted out of the hitch it would be solid again and even be functional.
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I appreciate that offer but western PA is probably a stretch for me.
I thought about that Charlie, the backup cam is drilled into the receiver and some wires are zip tied onto it as well. I don't want to sound lazy but I don't want to tackle all of that in this heat. I have some spray foam I thought about doing the under carriage with when it gets a little cooler out.
Unless you want to drive it up here and I will weld that hole shut for you and grind it back down. Once that's done unless the bottom is rotted out of the hitch it would be solid again and even be functional.
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Luckily the bottom hitch area only has very small surface rust. Not rotted out at all.
brillo_76
Elite Member
If you use spray foam on steel it rots a lot faster. That foam holds moisture along with water and salt. You can do as you wish though its your rig.
I personally will not use spray foam. The PO did the rockers in spray foam in Tetanus 1 and there was nothing left when I cut the old metal out and rebuilt the rockers on that rig.
Thanks again Brillo, no foam will be used what so ever. I'll actually return it.
Brillo, I don't want to be a pain or nag in any way, but I'd like to do this correctly the first time. Can you give me any tips on using the JB Fiberglass kit? Would you do both sides of the receiver or just the rotted part?
I'm hoping to find a video that someone did on a receiver or something similar so I have a better understanding before I start the process.
I wire wheeled all the rust I could tonight, it's not flat like a grinder would do but I did my best. I took some heavy grit and gave it one more rub to maybe help the Fiber adhere to it.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Well the correct way would be replace remove or weld the hitch .
It's best to leave the drain hole on the driver side open.
So you can shot some fluid film oil or transmission fluid in the inside of the hitch.
Get the metal a clean a possible. Then coat the hole the your fiberglass patch. Let let as dry. Give it a 2nd Coat. Lightly sand and paint it.
Hope for the best.
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It's best to leave the drain hole on the driver side open.
So you can shot some fluid film oil or transmission fluid in the inside of the hitch.
Get the metal a clean a possible. Then coat the hole the your fiberglass patch. Let let as dry. Give it a 2nd Coat. Lightly sand and paint it.
Hope for the best.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Might be especially if you don't use it. It's up to the owner.
It's their rog and Choice. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
While I agree BL, i'd likely have to saw zaw the existing bolts off and no guarantee I'll get it back on. I already have the backup cam drilled into the receiver which I don't want to unscrew and put back in. I know it's not the perfect solution. It's a band aid for an eye sore. If I ever get approved for Disability (story for another time) I'd probably get a new receiver.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Believe it or not 95% of the time those bolts will come out. Sometimes you have to use pipe wrenches and even cut the heads off the bolts to get the hitch out. Then I have welded into the stud and use pipe wrench to remove. The heat really helps.
I understand your patch and situation. So try what I suggested and hopefully it will work for your needs.
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What page on your build Brillo?
brillo_76
Elite Member
It's in my signature. You can see all that I done to the 3rd gens over the years.
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