97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Damn, I want that, don't really want or need a baja rack though
Stealth LED light bar install
- Thread starter BannerBuilt
- Start date
Damn, I want that, don't really want or need a baja rack though
that is true but IMO after looking it would sit nice and flush like the OP's thus being low profile which is what id rather have. the less people know or see the better
Frostythe4Runner
New member
Does anybody have pictures of how they ran the wires from the roof down to the hood?
Did you hide it on the side of the windshield or is there a cleaner way to do it?
Did you hide it on the side of the windshield or is there a cleaner way to do it?
sigepbiker
Member
rooneyy
New member
Sorry for replying to a semi-old thread but I am in the process of doing this install as well. I will post up detailed pictures of my setup, it is slightly different to accommodate my Yakima SkyBox.
I was thinking though, for the bolt that attaches from the the light bar mount to the angle bracket you could use a 5/16"-1" bolt and attach two Yakima Accessory Lock to each bolt; as an added security measure. I am considering doing this to my install.
I was thinking though, for the bolt that attaches from the the light bar mount to the angle bracket you could use a 5/16"-1" bolt and attach two Yakima Accessory Lock to each bolt; as an added security measure. I am considering doing this to my install.
EDness
New member
I'm looking for a writeup for the sport edition rack as well. Not sure how to run the wires for it.
sigepbiker
Member
I just received my light bar I bought off ebay. Got a good discount on it but purchased it without a wiring harness. The plug looks different than what [MENTION=77955]jdkilroy[/MENTION] has pictured here.
So, did your LED Bar light come with that 9006 (or similar) plug or did you modify the light wiring to use this plug?
Here's what the plug on my light looks like:
So, did your LED Bar light come with that 9006 (or similar) plug or did you modify the light wiring to use this plug?
running the wires separately (if they come bundled) makes it easier to slip them under the window moulding.
I ran the wires up and under the front foot of the roof rack and put a connector right behind the foot so I could remove the light bar if needed for service.
Here's what the plug on my light looks like:
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jdkilroy
New member
The plug I used (the one seen in the picture above) is the one that Baja Designs supplies with their lights.
I have to say that this location for the light bar has proven to be the most useful and effective of all my lights.
supraholic
New member
I'm gearing up for this install on my '07 Sport Edition...stay tuned for pics and details!
Troymclure
New member
Just moved my hid hellas to my bumper and bought a 50" dual row light bar. Anyone done a 50" before, Im not 100% sure how I want to mount it.
(Sorry for the terrible picture, it was getting dark when I finished moving them)
(Sorry for the terrible picture, it was getting dark when I finished moving them)
sigepbiker
Member
Just moved my hid hellas to my bumper and bought a 50" dual row light bar. Anyone done a 50" before, Im not 100% sure how I want to mount it.
(Sorry for the terrible picture, it was getting dark when I finished moving them)
For those wanting to mount a light bar on the stock roof rack like the OP, the inside distance between the rails is 41" so a 50" wouldn't fit. Nor would Rigid Industries' 40" light bar because of the hardware on the sides.
Back on topic, it looks like you'd have to mount it behind the vertical supports at the front. Will it fit inside the sides of your rack?
Troymclure
New member
I think my rack measures 45" on the inside so it wont fit there. I was thinking Im gonna have to put it lower down, possibly at windshield level, like this tacoma. I was originally gonna get a 42", but you cant get it in an all spot pattern, like the 50". I guess Ill have to wait and see when it comes.
Michael M
New member
I'm thinking of pulling the trigger and going about it just as the OP has. I have zero experience with adding lights and have 2 newb questions:
1) If going with the same lights as the OP (Input Voltage: 9-32 Volts DC,Power Consumption: 120 Watts, Amp Draw: 9.6 Amps @ 12V), will I need additional battery power?
2) Whats the difference between Spot, Flood and Combo Patterns?
Thanks for your help guys.
1) If going with the same lights as the OP (Input Voltage: 9-32 Volts DC,Power Consumption: 120 Watts, Amp Draw: 9.6 Amps @ 12V), will I need additional battery power?
2) Whats the difference between Spot, Flood and Combo Patterns?
Thanks for your help guys.
Troymclure
New member
1. Youll be fine.
2. Those are the beam patterns. The spot is a more focused light, that covers light over a greater distance, but is a narrower beam. The flood will light up everything from the tree tops to the ground, but will not go nearly as far as the spot pattern. The combo is simply a combination of both flood and spot. Usually about 1/3 of the bar is flood and the rest is spot pattern.
Dylan
Member
I think I remember you from such educational films as “Lead Paint: Delicious But Deadly,” and “Here Comes the Metric System!”
Ok question the 6in brackets the holes are not the same way aka reversed 2 outside holes up and center down on one side, and reversed on the other side for the part that would bolt to the light bar. how did you guys solve the issue? did you drill a hole or just use one of the offset holes at the same height?
ALso is the rocker switch a 1/2 inch hole needed to mount
ALso is the rocker switch a 1/2 inch hole needed to mount
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Well I mounted mine last night and today due to boredom and well it turned out great with the OP'S instructions.
OP btw very clever work and thank you for posting
Some things I would advised to others thinking about doing this.
Think twice about one way bolts they are a PIA to remove if you need to fix something. I didn't have to fix anything but during the testing i realized if tightened they aren't coming off and i rather have the ability to remove the light bar for when i dont need it
I reversed my brackets from the OP to make it even with the start of the roof rack.
I did not drill a hole in my roof but i did remove the molding along the windshield and ran the positive and negative wires there. I dont like the way some ran the wires along the windshield its half assed IMO do it right once and only once.
I removed the protective covering from the harness makes life easier, also I cut out the extra wire and then resoldered them back together so it was a nice perfect length rather than having to bundle and trying to hide extra wire.
Also on the brackets when you mount the light bar do not use the lower holes if you do it sits on the roof so youll need to mount it on the upper part.
Also plasti-dip is great for coloring the brackets btw
OP btw very clever work and thank you for posting
Some things I would advised to others thinking about doing this.
Think twice about one way bolts they are a PIA to remove if you need to fix something. I didn't have to fix anything but during the testing i realized if tightened they aren't coming off and i rather have the ability to remove the light bar for when i dont need it
I reversed my brackets from the OP to make it even with the start of the roof rack.
I did not drill a hole in my roof but i did remove the molding along the windshield and ran the positive and negative wires there. I dont like the way some ran the wires along the windshield its half assed IMO do it right once and only once.
I removed the protective covering from the harness makes life easier, also I cut out the extra wire and then resoldered them back together so it was a nice perfect length rather than having to bundle and trying to hide extra wire.
Also on the brackets when you mount the light bar do not use the lower holes if you do it sits on the roof so youll need to mount it on the upper part.
Also plasti-dip is great for coloring the brackets btw
thegreatdivorce
New member
Maybe I missed them, but any pictures with the bar re-angled? I like the idea of this install, as opposed to the DR one, but if the roof acts as a cutoff too close in front of the vehicle, it makes it a bit less useful.
The cut off on the bar should start at the cutoff of your headlights filling above the headlights rather than lighting what your headlights are already lighting
