Steering column bushing replacement

Crywolf

New member
Hey all, I recently slid under the truck and replaced a loose inner pass tie rod end, my steering rack bushings, and my sway bar bushings. All in all very VERY worthwhile mods. However; I still have steering wheel play. I have isolated the wiggle to the steering column itself. After talking with Toyota in town it seems that there is in fact a steering column bushing ($6) that can wear out as well as a steering mounting plate($200) that they said "Is known to go bad on occasion." Have any of you replaced either of these? I inspected the column a bit the other day at it looks like a pita. Any suggestions and/or help is appreciated!
 
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Aaaaand you're my savior. Haha I hate it when I search and search and find nothing then one person is like "Oh here it is!" Thanks!
 
Replacing my lower ball joints did way more to tighten up my steering than the rack bushings or tie rods. I don't get the wheel bounce after hitting a big bump or pothole anymore and it recovers immediately like it used to again. I haven't replaced my steering column bushing so I can't say what difference that will make.
 
Just an update for anyone else experiencing this same problem, the link quicksilvr posted solved all my issues. Very simple fix, took about an hour total and only cost me $10. Truck drives AMAZING after.:peace:
 
Just an update for anyone else experiencing this same problem, the link quicksilvr posted solved all my issues. Very simple fix, took about an hour total and only cost me $10. Truck drives AMAZING after.:peace:

Hello Crywolf, does the slipjoint move in and out? is there a chance it could get welded too short or long?

thanks for any info!
 
There is a reason that the slip joint is there. It is supposed to retract in the event of a head on collision. Maybe not a good idea to weld. If it rattles, i would drill and tap so that a set screw could be installed. It will remove all the slop and still let it collapse in the advent it needed to.
 
There is a reason that the slip joint is there. It is supposed to retract in the event of a head on collision. Maybe not a good idea to weld. If it rattles, i would drill and tap so that a set screw could be installed. It will remove all the slop and still let it collapse in the advent it needed to.

Singtoe, they address that in the write-up, a single set screw won't last, the outer wall of the slipjoint (in picture) is thin and a good amount of pressure can be applied by the steering wheel.
 
Hello Crywolf, does the slipjoint move in and out? is there a chance it could get welded too short or long?

thanks for any info!

Bringing TTT to see if anyone has an answer to this. thinking of doing the tackweld mod soon, if I can stand to dissasemble the steering column.
 
Hey sorry man I didn't notice this thread got bumped up. To answer your question, no the slipjoint cannot move in and out so there's no issue with welding to short or to long. Also I see the issue of collapse-ability has been raised. The whole fix for this mod is based on one or two tack welds. This is so in a front end collision the joint should break these tack welds and still collapse as normal. To be perfectly honest though, if you are in this type of collision to the point where the joint not collapsing becomes an issue, there prolly won't be to much of your truck left anyway. Just my .02. Hope this helps! And it's really not labor intensive. Just follow the link posted earlier in the thread and you'll be A ok! :cool:
 
Crywolf quote "To answer your question, no the slipjoint cannot move in and out so there's no issue with welding to short or to long. Also I see the issue of collapse-ability has been raised. The whole fix for this mod is based on one or two tack welds"

One more question regarding the slipjoint, has anyone bought a new one and had it tack welded prior to disassembling the steering column? that way you are not in a crunch to get it welded and back together. If so, do you have a part number and price? I will be ordering on-line parts from now on as my dealer has gotten high and acts like they never heard of a 4Runner. Any suggestions on OEM parts online?

thanks for all the info!
 
Crywolf quote "To answer your question, no the slipjoint cannot move in and out so there's no issue with welding to short or to long. Also I see the issue of collapse-ability has been raised. The whole fix for this mod is based on one or two tack welds"

One more question regarding the slipjoint, has anyone bought a new one and had it tack welded prior to disassembling the steering column? that way you are not in a crunch to get it welded and back together. If so, do you have a part number and price? I will be ordering on-line parts from now on as my dealer has gotten high and acts like they never heard of a 4Runner. Any suggestions on OEM parts online?

thanks for all the info!

I have a column that is for sale Cheap. $20

The column is tight and ready for you to mod. Pay actual shipping charges via shipper of your choice. When i pulled it out, it had no rust, I put in on top of the car and the next day it had flashed rust. Still fine though.

It is up for grabs, anybody want it?

Steeringcolum.jpg~original
 
I'm not sure that the whole steering column can be ordered anywhere besides the dealer. :nono: And from the dealer it's gunna be EXPENSIVE! The mounting bracket alone is $200 and change.
 
I'm not sure that the whole steering column can be ordered anywhere besides the dealer. :nono: And from the dealer it's gunna be EXPENSIVE! The mounting bracket alone is $200 and change.

Yeah, I'd say hit up a scrap yard for a used one. Replacing the whole thing from a dealer is insane.
 
I'm not sure that the whole steering column can be ordered anywhere besides the dealer. :nono: And from the dealer it's gunna be EXPENSIVE! The mounting bracket alone is $200 and change.

I would just want the slipjoint, the part that gets tack welded in the pictue on that link, that way you can avoid the trip to a welder while the vehicle is apart.
 
I have a column that is for sale Cheap. $20

The column is tight and ready for you to mod. Pay actual shipping charges via shipper of your choice. When i pulled it out, it had no rust, I put in on top of the car and the next day it had flashed rust. Still fine though.

It is up for grabs, anybody want it?

Steeringcolum.jpg~original

For an extra $5, I will even through two spot welds at the slip joint...
 
I did it!!

I believe all your answers will be found right here.....:)

Diagnose and Fix Steering Play/Rattle - TTORA Forum



I'm about 95% sure the linked modification above will solve all your issues!

I finally did this mod! thanks to quicksilver and singtoe, and the author of the linked thread!, the mod is a must, not difficult at all, folllow the directions in the linked thread. I lined up a welder and started dissasembling, had it welded and back together no problem. wow what a difference! it seams intimidating,removing the steering column, but take it step by step and no issues. the drive is much better, i don't know if I should do the rack bushing instaal now?

oh, a '98 SR5 4WD with 165K
 
Replacing my lower ball joints did way more to tighten up my steering than the rack bushings or tie rods. I don't get the wheel bounce after hitting a big bump or pothole anymore and it recovers immediately like it used to again. I haven't replaced my steering column bushing so I can't say what difference that will make.

Ditto...

in fact, I was ridiculously out of alignment after 4wheeling at Middle St. Vrain and I replaced my upper and lower ball joints and it nearly fully corrected my alignment..

steering was way tighter.
 

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