Steering Wheel Vibration? THE solution to the problem!

Veritas

New member
I got aftermarket wheels and tires and they were never properly balanced, I was dealing with a VERY violent steering wheel vibration for the past ~8 months and it was nearly unbearable. The store that I bought them from "tried" to rebalance them 3 separate times and NEVER was able to balance the wheels properly, the guys at performance wheel and tire are idiots. When the car was between 50-65 mph the steering wheel shake was very prominent. I have done a lot of searching on the forum but never found a good answer to this question, most of the responses were speculation, that were well....wrong.

So I asked a friend who is a mechanical engineer who works on cars extensively and he suggested exactly what the problem was and how to fix it and he was right. Almost ALL tire shops do single-plane or static wheel balancing where they just put weights on one section of the wheel with tape weights, typically on the inside of the wheel well. This is what causes the vibration in the steering wheel, because putting ALL of the weight on 1 section of the tire causes an imbalance, which you would think they would understand....

However static/single-plane balancing is old technology, the newer tire mounting machines do dual-plane or dynamic balancing, where a weight is placed on 2 separate sections of the tire to balance it properly. The tire runs on more than 1 axis, which is why static/single-plane balancing does not work and is the cheap easy method of choice for most shops. In dual-plane balancing the reblanace can be done with tape weights only or with the use of tape weights and clip on weights. The weights are typically placed on the inside and outside of the tire or in different locations on the inside of each tire. For example my dual-plane rebalance has tape weights and clip weights in different position, like a 3 o'clock and 7 o'clock position to properly balance the tire on 2 planes.

Now, I took my car to a discount tire and for $9 a tire, they rebalanced my tires as I requested with dual-plane/dynamic balancing while using a road force balancer. 30 minutes later my car was ready and I took it on the road and hit a top speed of 80mph(highway) while driving home, the steering wheel shake was almost completely gone, i would say that 90% of the problem is fixed, there is a slight/minor shake between 50-60 mph, but nothing like it used to be. The difference is incredible and the car drives sooo much better now.

So I have seen all types of threads on T4R telling you to look for specific machines or adapters, but if a shop does that and still does single plane balancing the problem will be there. If you have them do a dual-plane balance it will eliminate almost all of the shake in the steering wheel. I apologize that I can't offer a more technical explanation on this, but it has to do with the physics of a rotating object and this methodology is typically applied to racing wheels. I searched the net and came up with little to no information on dual-plane balancing, there were a couple of sites that had information on it, but nothing that is worth posting.

I have an 08 v6 SR5 4runner with most specs listed in my sig

If anyone else has this done and it fixes the problem please let us know!

Not the best pic, but this is my runner with Nitto's, (don't have them anymore):

My4runner.jpg~original
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
I'm surprised to hear that any shop still uses this antiquated technique. The balancer I use everyday only does dual plane balancing. It doesn't even have the option to single plane balance like some older machines I've used. If the shop is using such an older balancer I'd be worried what else they're going cheap on. Btw, I've road force balanced my duratracs so well that they are smooth as glass at 105mph. (yes, I was speeding)
 
I'm surprised to hear that any shop still uses this antiquated technique. The balancer I use everyday only does dual plane balancing. It doesn't even have the option to single plane balance like some older machines I've used. If the shop is using such an older balancer I'd be worried what else they're going cheap on. Btw, I've road force balanced my duratracs so well that they are smooth as glass at 105mph. (yes, I was speeding)

Yeah, I can't believe a pretty large "company" was using such a $hitty method, but they were, discount tire fixed the problem and I can't even describe how awesome it is to drive now. I agree at higher speeds it is perfect, steering is perfectly solid, only between 50-60 was there a problem. Now it is so minimal it is just great. :banana:
 
I didn't even realize people still used single plane...

We use a hunter machine with a hammerhead attachment (dual laser head) and road force balancing to make sure the tire/wheel assemblies are balanced properly at the dealership.
 
I have an incredible wheel shake at highway speeds! I'm definitely going to a different tire shop. I had an alignment done after adding a lift and spacers but I'm still getting improper wheel wear, especially on my left front tire... They clearly did a half assed job with my alignment!
 
I didn't even realize people still used single plane...

We use a hunter machine with a hammerhead attachment (dual laser head) and road force balancing to make sure the tire/wheel assemblies are balanced properly at the dealership.

I think I use that exact machine.
 
I have an incredible wheel shake at highway speeds! I'm definitely going to a different tire shop. I had an alignment done after adding a lift and spacers but I'm still getting improper wheel wear, especially on my left front tire... They clearly did a half assed job with my alignment!

Please post back after you get your wheels rebalanced and let us know if it worked! :snacker:
 
My DuraTrac's give me the wobble at the same speeds as you (50-65) with the worst at 55 but I wouldn't say they are violent. I will definitely inquire about this dual plane balance as I am going to get them done on a road force machine this week.

Thanks for the info :thumb3:
 
You don't put weights on the outside of that wheel. Stick-on weights are put inside the back of the wheel. Like this....
sucp_0206_28_z+wheel_works_tool+stick_on_weights.jpg
 
so the solution was a proper balance. so what was all the wrong advice you were getting? since 99% of tire or any repair shops will do a dynamic balance anyways, i can't imagine anyone guessing over the internet that you were getting the "old-fashioned" balance job.

did you get the results from the road force balance? did they spin the tire on the rim for any of them to try to correct? or did they just take the worst ones and move them to the back of the vehicle?
 
You don't put weights on the outside of that wheel. Stick-on weights are put inside the back of the wheel. Like this....
sucp_0206_28_z+wheel_works_tool+stick_on_weights.jpg

That works on a positive offset front wheel drive wheel, but not on a negative offset rear wheel drive wheel that has no lip to attach the clip on weights and you sure don't want to put stick on weights on outside of your wheels.
 
so the solution was a proper balance. so what was all the wrong advice you were getting? since 99% of tire or any repair shops will do a dynamic balance anyways, i can't imagine anyone guessing over the internet that you were getting the "old-fashioned" balance job.

did you get the results from the road force balance? did they spin the tire on the rim for any of them to try to correct? or did they just take the worst ones and move them to the back of the vehicle?

It wasnt poor advice I was receiving, it was $hitty workmanship and lazy employees that were the problem. I dont think you need an imagination to know that I was receiveing single plane balancing as i stated weights were only placed on one side of the tire and that is why i needed it to be properly done via a dual balance

Again, if you read my first post you will see that yes they did do dual plane balancing and that fixed the issue.

Yes i had them do all 4 tires because when i rotate my tires I need them all to be properly balanced.
 
That works on a positive offset front wheel drive wheel, but not on a negative offset rear wheel drive wheel that has no lip to attach the clip on weights and you sure don't want to put stick on weights on outside of your wheels.

Nail on the head :hatsoff:
 
It wasnt poor advice I was receiving, it was $hitty workmanship and lazy employees that were the problem.

"I have done a lot of searching on the forum but never found a good answer to this question, most of the responses were speculation, that were well....wrong."

I understand that you got all your tires dynamically balanced. I was just curious if they told you about your road force balance results. Road force balance is separate from dynamic balance. It will spit out a number. The higher the number (I don't recall what that threshold is) the more likely the tire will "hop" at speed. Sometimes turning the tire on the rim can help this. Sometimes a tire shop will simply move those high number tire/wheels to the rear of the vehicle. Also, a lot of times a shop will move those tires that took a lot of weight (from the dynamic balance job) to the rear of the vehicle. This is so they can return the vehicle back to you with the smoothest ride possible. Unfortunately problems can return after a rotation is done. Hopefully, the fact that you finally had a good balance done will do the trick even after you rotate the tires. I'm just speaking from personal experience and what I have seen done.
 
"I have done a lot of searching on the forum but never found a good answer to this question, most of the responses were speculation, that were well....wrong."

I understand that you got all your tires dynamically balanced. I was just curious if they told you about your road force balance results. Road force balance is separate from dynamic balance. It will spit out a number. The higher the number (I don't recall what that threshold is) the more likely the tire will "hop" at speed. Sometimes turning the tire on the rim can help this. Sometimes a tire shop will simply move those high number tire/wheels to the rear of the vehicle. Also, a lot of times a shop will move those tires that took a lot of weight (from the dynamic balance job) to the rear of the vehicle. This is so they can return the vehicle back to you with the smoothest ride possible. Unfortunately problems can return after a rotation is done. Hopefully, the fact that you finally had a good balance done will do the trick even after you rotate the tires. I'm just speaking from personal experience and what I have seen done.

Discount used a machine that does roadforce, but i'd be SHOCKED if they actually roadforced them for $9/each. They normally charge $25/each because of the extra labor involved.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,046
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top