Stoopid question of the Day Award: Upgrading a '99 2WD to 4x4

[Doc2012]

If you want to know what's all involved converting a '99, PM me and I'll give you my number.

If you're mechanically inclined, it can be done in a weekend.

I did it in about 3 days, working mostly at night for a few hours here and there, in January, where it was upper 20s lower 30s.


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[AntleredRuin]

If you want to know what's all involved converting a '99, PM me and I'll give you my number.

If you're mechanically inclined, it can be done in a weekend.

I did it in about 3 days, working mostly at night for a few hours here and there, in January, where it was upper 20s lower 30s.


Sent from my PRC-119 using morse code

^
This is what you need.

And midnight vehicle work is surprisingly refreshing.

 

[octanejunkie]

If you want to know what's all involved converting a '99, PM me and I'll give you my number.

If you're mechanically inclined, it can be done in a weekend.

I did it in about 3 days, working mostly at night for a few hours here and there, in January, where it was upper 20s lower 30s.


Sent from my PRC-119 using morse code

Thank your sir, PM inbound :usa2:

 

[mckennar]

And slightly off topic, but as far as value of time, I always look at my time being as valuable as whatever I make hourly; do the math if you're salary.

I value my free / family time at a much higher rate than I do the time I spend on the clock. I don't think I could put a price tag on that.

I wrench now as a catharsis and to learn something new vs. to save money.

Value is more than money. But I see and understand your point. Before we had a son, I thought the same way.

 

[mckennar]

Sent from my PRC-119 using morse code

"Hey First Sergeant, you know where I can find a PRC-E8 around here?"

 

[octanejunkie]

It was definitely not that spunky with the 265's and 3.73 gears.

I'm also running 265s but I'm pretty sure my '99 2WD has a 4.11 rear gear. Speedo is pretty accurate, within 2-3 mph as far as I can tell.

I got the complete rear axle, rear driveshaft and the complete front section of frame from the transmission forward for $375!

You sir, got incredibly lucky, that deal will not be found in SoCal anytime soon unless you know a guy that knows a guy that has one in the yard.

I remember seeing that the Trail Gear Tacoma single transfer case crossmember worked on the 4Runner from a SAS build on pirate4x4 so I ordered one up. Pricey but it was bolt on and now I have some extra underbody protection after cutting out the stock crossmember. Just had to measure twice before drilling holes in my frame. You will also have to modify the exhaust bracket that attaches to the stock crossmember. Just heat and bend to connect to the frame instead.

Good info here too, will have to research that c-member and hangar tweak

Also, most of the wiring is there for the 4wd lights and relay. After tracing wires and studying the wiring diagrams(I paid the $12 for a 3 day pass to the Toyota Tech Info site and downloaded what I needed), I only had to attach/solder 5 wires! The 4wd light works and the front diff engages. I didn't bother with all the other transfer case switches since they aren't really needed. You only need to connect wires to the 4wd position switch to engage the front ADD actuator.

Did you need a different gauge cluster?

I did new rear axle bearings/seals and new upper & lower ball joints which added more time. Probably could have done just the 4wd swap in two full weekends with some extra help.

I would definitely freshen up seals and ball joints if going this far...

Final tally on money spent was around $800

Unbelievable :rockon: good for you!

 

[octanejunkie]

:hand: Don't sell it, you've had it all this time! Just add to the fleet. No real bargains here, but they do show up from time to time.

los angeles cars & trucks - by owner - craigslist

Thanks for the link, I do look at CL from time to time but usually only get discouraged.

Wish I had room for another 4runner imp:

 

[AntleredRuin]

I value my free / family time at a much higher rate than I do the time I spend on the clock. I don't think I could put a price tag on that.

I wrench now as a catharsis and to learn something new vs. to save money.

Value is more than money. But I see and understand your point. Before we had a son, I thought the same way.

I get that. I guess I'm of the mindset that I can wrench at home, while still being in the general vicinity of my family. I can still come in and kiss my wife (but not touch her with greasy hands) whenever I want. I can blast my music and wear shorts and all over have a good time. If I'm potentially having to stay late at the office for several hours to cover the extra cost of the repair, that's not worth it to me.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the link, I do look at CL from time to time but usually only get discouraged.

Wish I had room for another 4runner imp:

Maybe SoCal is different, but I just picked up a 4Runner with a complete fine engine and rebuilt transmission for $750. 2WD though, so I can't help you there. It was on Craigslist for a month until I realized what a steal it was.

Look for part-outs and don't let accidents scare you. I've seen intact, running 4WD for $1500 or less depending on the level of cosmetic damage.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Case in point, here's one for $800: 1998 Toyota 4Runner 5-Speed Manual

 

[octanejunkie]

Case in point, here's one for $800: 1998 Toyota 4Runner 5-Speed Manual

Point taken

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

I guess what I'm saying is, if you don't mind a drive, or can find a cheap tow, the 4WD swap is very do-able if you're not liking the idea of getting a different 4Runner.

 

[octanejunkie]

I guess what I'm saying is, if you don't mind a drive, or can find a cheap tow, the 4WD swap is very do-able if you're not liking the idea of getting a different 4Runner.

I understand and appreciate the info. Placerville is a long drive, and I suspect a tow from there would cost as much as the seller is asking for that non-running Runner, but that doesn't mean I won't find a donor closer in the future - I'm not gonna start this project tomorrow; I'm just getting all the ducks in a row

Thanks again for the input, and the link :thumbsup:

 

[88toy4x4]

I'm also running 265s but I'm pretty sure my '99 2WD has a 4.11 rear gear. Speedo is pretty accurate, within 2-3 mph as far as I can tell.

That is good. My runner was one of the "lucky" ones to have the smallest wheels/tires and smallest brakes offered from the factory. After doing the math, I am 11.2% off. Check your door code. If it is A03A, you more than likely have 4.10's.

Did you need a different gauge cluster?

No. The clusters are the same for the SR5 models. Mine already had a bulb in the 4wd spot! After I wired it up and did a quick test in the garage, it lit up like it was 4wd from the factory.:thumb:

 

[octanejunkie]

That is good. My runner was one of the "lucky" ones to have the smallest wheels/tires and smallest brakes offered from the factory. After doing the math, I am 11.2% off. Check your door code. If it is A03A, you more than likely have 4.10's.

Yup, just checked

No. The clusters are the same for the SR5 models. Mine already had a bulb in the 4wd spot! After I wired it up and did a quick test in the garage, it lit up like it was 4wd from the factory.:thumb:

I've seen gauge pics on here with a large 4x indicator below the turn signals, but my gauge cluster seems to have one right below the CEL indicator - I just need to add a bulb I think.

Thanks for the reply and info!

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[88toy4x4]

I've seen gauge pics on here with a large 4x indicator below the turn signals, but my gauge cluster seems to have one right below the CEL indicator - I just need to add a bulb I think

The one with the big 4wd indicator is from the Limited 4wd model. They have the extra option of AWD along with 2wd or 4wd. The SR5 and base models have the small green indicator at the far right of the cluster.

Worst case is that you have to add a bulb, not a big deal. More than likely, you have a bulb installed from the factory already.

 

[octanejunkie]

Parts and Steps, Draft One

Thanks to the guys on this thread/forum, with special shout outs to AntleredRuin, 88toy4x4 and Doc2012 (for an actual phone call), here is what I have on my project list so far:

PARTS FROM DONOR
Spindles
Front Diff
CV joints/shafts
Front Drive Shaft
Rear Drive Shaft
Transfer Case
Output shaft
Pan
Filter
Shifter linkage
Shifter arm(s)
Shifter Boots and Trim
4x ECM ?
Engine Harness ?
Actuator harness/plug ?

GENERAL STEPS and NOTES IN ORDER
Drive up on ramps
Remove rear driveshaft and trans
Install front diff while trans is out
Swap tail piece, 4WD output shaft, filter and pan from donor trans on mine Reference Post
Move Trans x-member (buy or fab) or temp extension mount
-Trail Gear Tacoma single transfercase crossmember kit
Cut trans tunnel, install cage nuts or similar
Install shifter group
Install trans and drive shafts
Modify Stock Exhaust bracket on trans x-member
Roll off ramps, jack up front end
Replace upper and lower ball joints on donor spindles
Install cv joints, axles and spindles
Replace wheels, drop front end
Remove upper plenum to get to injectors
Remove Engine Harness
Swap ECM (behind glove box)
Install Donor Engine Harness ?
Reassemble plenum
Check/replace 4x bulb in gauge cluster
Test drive

I appreciate any input and/or correction/clarification. Thanks again, fellas!

 

[88toy4x4]

Thanks to the guys on this thread/forum, with special shout outs to AntleredRuin, 88toy4x4 and Doc2012 (for an actual phone call), here is what I have on my project list so far:
PARTS FROM DONOR
/snip/
4x ECM ? Not needed
Engine Harness ? Not needed
Actuator harness/plug ? See blue below

You will also need:
Vacuum solenoids on the drivers wheel well(under hood)
Vacuum canister from under drivers wheel well(right in front of the tire)
Vacuum line with check valve & tee from intake to solenoids
Vacuum lines to the front diff metal lines
4wd relay and plug from passenger kick panel(interior)
You will need the harness plugs for the following: front diff, trans

GENERAL STEPS and NOTES IN ORDER
/snip/
Remove upper plenum to get to injectors
Remove Engine Harness
Swap ECM (behind glove box)
Install Donor Engine Harness ?
Reassemble plenum
Check/replace 4x bulb in gauge cluster
Test drive

You don't need to swap ECM's(that I know of). I am still running the stock 2wd ECM with a 4wd trans and it shifts fine. The trans harness plugs were identical from the 2wd(a340e) to the 4wd(a340f) models.
Since you are talking about converting your 2wd trans to a 4wd trans, your trans won't care if there is a transfer case hanging off the back or not. It should not affect the shift patterns or how it drives.

As far as removing engine harnesses etc., you don't need to swap any harnesses. You will just need build a small harness to connect the front diff and transfer case to the 4wd relay(passenger kick panel), vacuum solenoids and 4wd dash indicator light.
There are:

1. 2 wires from the front diff that go to the 4wd indicator light
2. 2 wires from the 4wd switch on the transfer case to 4wd relay(mounted behind the passenger kick panel)
3. Two wires from the 4wd relay to the vacuum solenoids that are mounted on the drivers wheel well

Getting the wire diagrams for your model year will help with the wire colors and locations of all the different items that you need locate and connect to.

Extra Tips:

• Instead of drilling a hole in the firewall to get to the interior, I unwrapped my main engine harness at the firewall and routed my 3 wires through it. It made the install much cleaner.
• Try to get as many extra plugs from the donor vehicle that way you can take out the terminals and use them to connect your wires to the factory plugs. This goes back to where I said many of the wires are there but they will terminate at certain harness plugs. You can salvage terminals from other plugs to make your install cleaner by not having to cut your factory wires.
• Don't use butt connectors to join wires...well you can if you want. I chose to solder & heat shrink any wire connections that I made. This goes along with using existing terminals. Instead of trying to re-crimp the factory terminals, I would leave 3-4" of the factory wire attached to the terminal and solder my wire to it for a good connection.

Clear as mud, right?:der:

 

[mckennar]

EDIT: 88toy4x4 posted this exact thing while I was typing mine.

Perhaps I missed it (likely) but has anyone mentioned the ADD system yet? And that you should, if you can help it, go with the J shift transfer case from an SR5 or Tacoma vs the limited pushbutton one?

ADD = automatic disconnecting differential. There's a vacuum reservoir on 4x4s (unsure if it's on 4x2s) mounted to the back side of the core support on the driver's side front.

There is also a vacuum manifold with electrical connectors on it that helps manage this.

But I'll stop here. I'm not as well versed in the ADD system as many others. Those are the two parts I know of, but there are a bunch more.

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks a bunch 88toy4x4 and mckennar [emoji106]

I'll incorporate these updates into my Draft One later today

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