Stretch your CV boots

You have grease everywhere because your boots are torn, so it's too late to try to extend them. You can sure try this with new boots, though they do come with new clamps so you wouldn't need to use worm drive clamps.

There's also the option of aftermarket boots like those sold by CVJ Axles here in Denver.

I haven't a clue where the option of $950 replacement axleshafts came from. There's all kinds of threads on CV boots on this site alone.


This member says this.....

A lot of the aftermarket cv's have bad casting which during wheeling can cause the input shaft to break under stress.

I have never broken an oem cv yet and I wheel my truck pretty rough. If the boot just went you should have bought new boots with grease and did the Stretch mod so they dont rub and tear again. If you have a lift they will keep failing till you stretch them.

IMO a newly stretched booted junkyard OEM cv is the best bet when needing to replace them.


What are your thoughts?
 
There are all kinds of options. The bottom line is it's your decision.

Read the countless other threads on the subject and you can see that results and opinions vary widely. What works for one person may not for the next guy. The only reason I even added to this thread was due to the ambiguity regarding the grease problem and $950 axleshafts.
 
There are all kinds of options. The bottom line is it's your decision.

Read the countless other threads on the subject and you can see that results and opinions vary widely. What works for one person may not for the next guy. The only reason I even added to this thread was due to the ambiguity regarding the grease problem and $950 axleshafts.

I'm sorry for pestering you & wanting/respecting your opinion.
 
Unless I've personally used a product you're asking about I'm not going to give you an opinion on it.
 
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You have grease everywhere because your boots are torn, so it's too late to try to extend them. You can sure try this with new boots, though they do come with new clamps so you wouldn't need to use worm drive clamps.

There's also the option of aftermarket boots like those sold by CVJ Axles here in Denver.

I haven't a clue where the option of $950 replacement axleshafts came from. There's all kinds of threads on CV boots on this site alone.

honestly, you cant tell from the photos if the boots are torn. The "grease problem" he is referring to is that the boot slides up the shaft after a lift, causing what you see in the pic. This post/topic is referring to the boot rubbing/riding on itself, causing holes in the bellows of the boot. The grease problem is a different issue altogether

how can you say they are torn?
 
Grease doesn't get thrown all over the place like that if the boot had just slid on the axleshaft. The "grease problem" is grease goes everywhere when the boots tear/rub/whatever you want to call it. It doesn't get slung like that when they slide on the axleshaft. I've had both situations on mine and I know which one made the big mess.

BTW, that was three months ago. If they weren't torn we probably would have heard about it by now from the person that posted the pictures.
 
Random question I wondered in regard to these type of discussions about CV angles.

So a stock 4runner sits 1 inch lower roughly, over the 99' with "tall" springs, right? If I have a 99' with new Bilstein 5100's which raised it 0.25"-0.375" over where it was. Theoretically I'm 1.25-1.375 over stock height on other trucks. Did Toyota design anything differently on the suspension end of the 99's differently to accommodate them for the taller spring?

Both of my CV boots were torn on mine when I got it. I haven't even looked at the boots or anything else since putting new CV's in. Just made me think, I'm gonna have to go look at it closer..
 
Grease doesn't get thrown all over the place like that if the boot had just slid on the axleshaft. The "grease problem" is grease goes everywhere when the boots tear/rub/whatever you want to call it. It doesn't get slung like that when they slide on the axleshaft. I've had both situations on mine and I know which one made the big mess.

BTW, that was three months ago. If they weren't torn we probably would have heard about it by now from the person that posted the pictures.

So, lets ask HIM!

I wasn't a member of this forum 3 months ago, but am learning a lot
 
I have about 750 miles on my ToyTec BOSS lift - and noticed grease all over my driver wheel well today.


That's the grease problem. I've read in other threads that there's a way to extend a boot and use a hose clamp to seal it. Other threads have said drive on it till it breaks.

I want reliability / peace of mind / tough parts that wont break.

Bijan, what turned out to be the problem? Ripped/torn boot or "other problem"?
 
You have grease everywhere because your boots are torn, so it's too late to try to extend them. You can sure try this with new boots, though they do come with new clamps so you wouldn't need to use worm drive clamps.

There's also the option of aftermarket boots like those sold by CVJ Axles here in Denver.

I haven't a clue where the option of $950 replacement axleshafts came from. There's all kinds of threads on CV boots on this site alone.

Just for reference my extended boots from CVJ didnt last more than a year while running my 3" toytec lift. I drive 25k a year and only see fire roads 4-6 times a year. On occasion I'll take a moderate trail with a lil articulation.
Just my experience.

Im going to replace them with some store bought lifetime axles and stretch the boots. Save some $ seeing I will need to replace the CVJ boots every year.
 
so have we all decided that the poly urethane "high angle" boots wont last, due to expanding or flexing under high speed/road driving conditions?
 
My front coilovers are jacked to 4" instead of 3" of lift. 14 yr old boot + new stressed angles = a rip in the boot.


I got CVJ axles w/ extended boots

CSP, you were correct, but without a follow up, nobody could know for sure. Thank you, Bijan, for the follow up! And CSP, that IS a LOT of grease!!!!
 
It was a VERY safe assumption. As I said, a boot that slides doesn't allow that amount of grease to be thrown like his was. I only throw statements out like that which are based on experience.

Jasonredwood did your CVJ boots come with the orange O-rings that they come with now to keep the folds in the boot separated?
 
Save your self a headache people. Get all pro extended CV boots. Stop stretching it whatever, the stock boot is for stock lift.
 
Jasonredwood did your CVJ boots come with the orange O-rings that they come with now to keep the folds in the boot separated?

No, there wasn't any sort of orange o-rings to keep the boots separated. When I contacted them about my torn boot, it didnt seem like they believed me about the failure, lack of offroad or limited lift etc... I don't know. I figured I would save my breath and time next time and go with a low cost guaranteed auto parts option. I know the auto parts axles can fail early, or not. To me if a boot is only going to last under a year then whats the point on spending $250+ on axles?
Maybe the new O-rings are going to work for the CVJ axles but Im not going to spend more money on it to find out.
 
After putting on a 3" Toytec lift my boots where throwing a little grease. I also choose not to install the diff drop for now. The new angles caused some rubbing on the upper boot's first two creases. I only had about 60 miles on the truck since the lift. After inspection the boots aren't torn and are still in remarkable shape.

Since finding this thread I decided the go ahead and do this mod. The boots are no where near having the ribs touch each other anymore. It took about 15 minutes for the first side and about 5 minutes for the second side. The grease that was coming out of the lower part of the upper CV boot has completely stopped. The upper portion of the upper boot is still leaking a little however. I don't like the idea of putting a larger clamp there because there barely seems to be enough room to have it clear.

So I've come up with an idea. HVAC zip ties tightened with a tie gun. Has anyone used this for the upper or lower boots? If so how did it hold up?


malco_ty6_3.jpg
 
When I had my CVs re-booted I had the shop stretch the boots some. After installing them I realized that they were stretched a little to far.

If the ribs on CV boots touch, here is what I did.

I popped the clamps off (shaft side) and slid the boots down the shaft till the flutes don't touch at normal ride height and going straight. Then I hose clamped them in place. Don't over stretch them! They still have to have room to stretch more when turning and drooped.

How to:
This is how the boots looked straight out of the box. Notice that the biggest flutes are touching.
CV3.jpg~original


I then took two of the small hose clamps and joined them together. I did this to keep things small. (this should keep them balanced also.
CV2.jpg~original


Then I popped the clamps off by tapping a small screwdriver into the keeper.
CV5.jpg~original


This is what they look like afterward.
CV4.jpg~original

Thanks for the write-up brotha. I just did this mod this weekend along with new Toyota CV Axles, ECGS bushing, and new Toyota diff seals. My front end is like new. I even combined 2 worm gear clamps like you did to balance them out. Took the rig up to 80mph, rides like glass.
 

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