Bijan
New member
Those Tundra axles are for their long travel kit only.
Thanks for the input. What about LOTUS brand from ToyTec *NEW* Lotus Heavy Duty Front CV Axles
Those Tundra axles are for their long travel kit only.
You have grease everywhere because your boots are torn, so it's too late to try to extend them. You can sure try this with new boots, though they do come with new clamps so you wouldn't need to use worm drive clamps.
There's also the option of aftermarket boots like those sold by CVJ Axles here in Denver.
I haven't a clue where the option of $950 replacement axleshafts came from. There's all kinds of threads on CV boots on this site alone.
A lot of the aftermarket cv's have bad casting which during wheeling can cause the input shaft to break under stress.
I have never broken an oem cv yet and I wheel my truck pretty rough. If the boot just went you should have bought new boots with grease and did the Stretch mod so they dont rub and tear again. If you have a lift they will keep failing till you stretch them.
IMO a newly stretched booted junkyard OEM cv is the best bet when needing to replace them.
There are all kinds of options. The bottom line is it's your decision.
Read the countless other threads on the subject and you can see that results and opinions vary widely. What works for one person may not for the next guy. The only reason I even added to this thread was due to the ambiguity regarding the grease problem and $950 axleshafts.
You have grease everywhere because your boots are torn, so it's too late to try to extend them. You can sure try this with new boots, though they do come with new clamps so you wouldn't need to use worm drive clamps.
There's also the option of aftermarket boots like those sold by CVJ Axles here in Denver.
I haven't a clue where the option of $950 replacement axleshafts came from. There's all kinds of threads on CV boots on this site alone.
Grease doesn't get thrown all over the place like that if the boot had just slid on the axleshaft. The "grease problem" is grease goes everywhere when the boots tear/rub/whatever you want to call it. It doesn't get slung like that when they slide on the axleshaft. I've had both situations on mine and I know which one made the big mess.
BTW, that was three months ago. If they weren't torn we probably would have heard about it by now from the person that posted the pictures.
I have about 750 miles on my ToyTec BOSS lift - and noticed grease all over my driver wheel well today.
That's the grease problem. I've read in other threads that there's a way to extend a boot and use a hose clamp to seal it. Other threads have said drive on it till it breaks.
I want reliability / peace of mind / tough parts that wont break.
You have grease everywhere because your boots are torn, so it's too late to try to extend them. You can sure try this with new boots, though they do come with new clamps so you wouldn't need to use worm drive clamps.
There's also the option of aftermarket boots like those sold by CVJ Axles here in Denver.
I haven't a clue where the option of $950 replacement axleshafts came from. There's all kinds of threads on CV boots on this site alone.
Bijan, what turned out to be the problem? Ripped/torn boot or "other problem"?
My front coilovers are jacked to 4" instead of 3" of lift. 14 yr old boot + new stressed angles = a rip in the boot.
I got CVJ axles w/ extended boots
Jasonredwood did your CVJ boots come with the orange O-rings that they come with now to keep the folds in the boot separated?
When I had my CVs re-booted I had the shop stretch the boots some. After installing them I realized that they were stretched a little to far.
If the ribs on CV boots touch, here is what I did.
I popped the clamps off (shaft side) and slid the boots down the shaft till the flutes don't touch at normal ride height and going straight. Then I hose clamped them in place. Don't over stretch them! They still have to have room to stretch more when turning and drooped.
How to:
This is how the boots looked straight out of the box. Notice that the biggest flutes are touching.
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I then took two of the small hose clamps and joined them together. I did this to keep things small. (this should keep them balanced also.
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Then I popped the clamps off by tapping a small screwdriver into the keeper.
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This is what they look like afterward.
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