sub hook up

P

pr0jectezek1el

New member
hey

i have a 96 and was wondering if it is possible to run subs and an amp from my stock deck?

can u tell me what i need to make it work like an adpater or something?


thanks
 
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Go to monstercable.com and into car audio. Then look up factory linx. they have an adaptor called the factoylinx fx sw. This will do what you need it to do. Monster tends to be a bit pricey, but is sold everywhere.
 
You need a high to low pass rca converter. You can get it for about $8 on Ebay. This converts the speaker outputs (left and right channel) on the factory head unit to rca.... which will enable you to hook up amplifiers to power additional speakers, such as subwoofers.
 
1. Run the positive from the battery to the amp with an inline fuse right after the battery.
2. Run the negative to a ground point in your car. Go under the carpeting or seats and find a bolt that you can use. Be sure to sand the paint down for conductivity.
3. Tap into your stock speaker wires and run the wires through a hi-low converter which outputs RCA and brings the current up to amp level. Then run the RCAs (red & white) to your amp.
4. Pull out the head unit and using a multimeter, find the remote wire (wire that runs 12 volts and turns on/off with ignition). Tap into it and run that back to your amp where it says "remote."

I built my own enclosure and wired it up myself:)
 

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Minus the sub enclosure...It took me about 6 hours. What takes long is finding out where all the tabs are in the panels that you have to pull off. Now I know the car inside and out and I can do it much quicker.
 
How about giving us some detailed instructions on how to take out the panels. Better yet... come over my house and show me. I'm only a few miles away in Orange, CA. I was looking at the parts that I would have to take out just to get to the head unit, and run an amp wire from battery to cargo area... and it seems that basically almost every panel has to come off.
 
SE4runner said:
At the factory head unit. Connect the rear right and left channel speaker leads to a high-low rca converter.
Click to expand...

I guess my question was more of a concern over the pre-amp leads from the HU being a lower signal than that after the JBL amp. In other words...is the pre-amp signal really a High pass signal??? If it is under 4v, in theory, you could solder RCA's directly to the lead and run in to a JL amp that accepts 1.5-4v signals. I guess it is a mute point if you change out the HU for aftermarket.

I also assume that you just tapped into the factory harness....I have not seen any other aftermarket harness adapters that could be used to keep you from hacking the factory harness.
 
RE: Dude

I used the speakers that are in the rear doors. I tapped the wires just before the front seat belts. Remove those two long panels and you'll see 2 wires (different colors) that are twisted together. One side of the car will be black/yellow, the other side will be red/white. I used inline wire taps--those things are really convenient.* You can also tap the same wires immediately behind the head unit, but this way, it's less confusing and you wont have to run the wires so far.
 
The person that did my install hooked the converter at the head unit. He managed to just use the wires for the sub, so the rest of the speakers still work (9 out of 10). It took him about 50 minutes to do both the amplifier and converter install. Now, that I have the factory manual in my hands (thanks to a certain member), I'm gonna do the rest of installs myself.
 
SE4runner, do you have the wiring schematics or diagrams for the jbl synthesis system? im gonna be working on a 4runner with it, but keeping the head unit; changing door speakers and adding two subs. the catch is, the center speaker and rear pillar speakers need to still work.
Sal
 
I'm really interested in how it sounds once you change out the door speakers. I'm assuming the factory ones are low impedience so that they are more efficient. I'm wondering how tough it would be to get a good balance if you have some 4 ohm and say some 2 ohm(factory) speakers. Did anyone already change out door speakers with the 10 spkr JBL and still get decent volume out of them? Did it improve the sound quality? I'd also like to upgrade the speakers, but don't want to add a different head unit because of the steering wheel control headaches and losing the rear seat audio (even though I don't know if I'll ever use it). Resale value is a good thing. I did tap into the sub wires in the back of the cargo area and added an Infinity Perfect 10 sub. I'm using an alpine amp (80 RMS) and I have to keep it cranked down to 0 gain and 0 bass boost. Still is too much at times. Looking for a good way to "balance" the system. Ideas?

Also, SE4runner.... I didn't think that there were dedicated sub wires from behind the HU. In the schematic from Toyota, all I see is a left and right speaker lead with some kind of tx+ and tx- leads. Is there really a sub output back there?
 
Im changing out the speakers, but im also using new amps. im using a four channel amp for the door speakers and a mono amp for the subs. 2 ohm arent necessarily more efficient than 4 ohm. Amps (if stable to lower impedances) output more power at lowe rimpedances than higher.
Where do you guys get the wiring schematics for the radio?
Sal
 
I got them from a local toyota dealer. I didn't even buy my 4runner from them. I just asked if they could print out the wireing schematic for the radio. They have to print it for you... can't fax because it's color coded. Make sure you specify what audio system you have. They are obviously different for the JBL vs. standard system.
 
SE4runner said:
Now, that I have the factory manual in my hands (thanks to a certain member), I'm gonna do the rest of installs myself.
Click to expand...

You're going to return those soon, right?
:50cal: ;):
 
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ok, kool. thanks. if anyone has them handy for the jbl system i'd appreciate if they could give them to me to say the trip to the dealership. thanks.
salvador
 
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