Subs Cutting Out

[ddnww]

That wire is more than sufficient w/o a doubt. You will want to make sure all terminations are tight and clean - including the grounds from Battery to Chassis and Amp to Chassis...



See the the pics the OP posted on the first page of the thread - He also has his build log linked in his sig that contains model numbers and such. Been there done that :brushteeth: Also reference my previous troubleshooting suggestions based on the aforementioned build log and pics...

the pics only show how two sets of speaker wire are connected to a 2 channel amp, the pics do not show nor does it say what model amp it is.. nor does it say what specific model of subs(besides brand). we need to know what exact model the amp and subs are to know what its specs are and its ohm load stability.

And instead of searching a build thread, it seems easier to me to simply post the model of everything and describe exactly how everything is wired up. things could be wired wrong, or not stable . im just trying to help the guy out as you are. i may be overlooking stuff since it is late and i did not read the whole thread..

 

[Randyman...]

the pics only show how two sets of speaker wire are connected to a 2 channel amp, the pics do not show nor does it say what model amp it is.. nor does it say what specific model of subs(besides brand). we need to know what exact model the amp and subs are to know what its specs are and its ohm load stability.

And instead of searching a build thread, it seems easier to me to simply post the model of everything and describe exactly how everything is wired up. things could be wired wrong, or not stable . im just trying to help the guy out as you are. i may be overlooking stuff since it is late and i did not read the whole thread..

From the build thread:

Subwoofers - 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 - 4 ohm 400 watt RMS 800 watt peak

Deck - Kenwood KDC-HD552U - 22 watts x 4 RMS 50 watt peak

Amp - Kenwood KAC-9105D - 500 watt RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms 1800 watt peak

It's a mono (1 Channel) amp. Both subs are ran to the amp's 2-sets of terminals (the mono amps' terminals are paralleled for convenience), thus the 4 Ohm subs (as spec'd in the build log) are wired in parallel (as the pic on page #1 clearly shows) presenting the amp with a net 2 Ohm load. The wire clearly appears to be 4Ga when compared to the remote wire, and the OP also confirmed this above.

Sometimes using a bit of (quick) detective work and reading between the lines can come in handy I might have spent a total of 1 minute cross-referencing info and looking at the build log to come up with my hypotheses. I don't mind using a minute of my time on a topic that's near to my heart. It was also easier and quicker to do that than to post a reply requesting specific system configuration details and then waiting for another reply

The truth is out there! Don't be afraid to look for it - It'll only take a minute :drummer:

 

[riceandpho]

check the ohm load on the sub, and see how its wired. also let us know if its dual voice coil or single voice coil. check the sub itself for cone blown out of voice coil. i played a punch 2 15inch last year version so hard on a jl 500/1 and it got hot that the cone seperated from the voicecoil. it was still moving, the voicecoil part, just the cone seperated.

 

[Cartzo]

Alright thanks guys. I'll have to pull out one of the subs and show you how it's wired because I just left it pretty much how I got it. I would like to wire it to 4Ohm though since that's what the subs are rated at.. Thinking back on it I think the subs are 500 watt rms and 1000 watt peak so technically the amp should power ONE of those subs just right since the amp is 500 watt rms @ 4ohm x 1. Is that correct?

 

[ddnww]

From the build thread:



It's a mono (1 Channel) amp. Both subs are ran to the amp's 2-sets of terminals (the mono amps' terminals are paralleled for convenience), thus the 4 Ohm subs (as spec'd in the build log) are wired in parallel (as the pic on page #1 clearly shows) presenting the amp with a net 2 Ohm load. The wire clearly appears to be 4Ga when compared to the remote wire, and the OP also confirmed this above.

Sometimes using a bit of (quick) detective work and reading between the lines can come in handy I might have spent a total of 1 minute cross-referencing info and looking at the build log to come up with my hypotheses. I don't mind using a minute of my time on a topic that's near to my heart. It was also easier and quicker to do that than to post a reply requesting specific system configuration details and then waiting for another reply

The truth is out there! Don't be afraid to look for it - It'll only take a minute :drummer:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Zm5o_r4Lyc0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


oh .. and by him verifying the system configuration as compared to searching a thread to see how it was setup up however long ago, he may come across the problem. exampe: speaker wire not connected correctly to voice coil ternimal etc etc.. thats why i prefer my method over yours.. its happend many times before in other forums.. plus it will teach him more about his system so that he will gain knowledge and can help others out like we are doin for him..

 

[ddnww]

Alright thanks guys. I'll have to pull out one of the subs and show you how it's wired because I just left it pretty much how I got it. I would like to wire it to 4Ohm though since that's what the subs are rated at.. Thinking back on it I think the subs are 500 watt rms and 1000 watt peak so technically the amp should power ONE of those subs just right since the amp is 500 watt rms @ 4ohm x 1. Is that correct?

yes pull it out and take a pic of how its wired, it may not be connected properly, ive had wires come out before, also take a pic of the inside of the sub, under the cone.. the spider, it looks like wavy cardboard usually, so we can verify if you thermaled the voice coils. also.. your setup can only be wired to 2 ohm or 8 ohm load.yes it is 500rms at 4 ohm, so theoretically about 700 or so at 2ohm(what you have it wired to) but those amps are over rated so its more likely about 500rms at the ohm load u have it at.

 

[riceandpho]

Rockford Fosgate® - RFTECH Support

 

[riceandpho]

Subs are dual voice coil, take the sub out and check how its wired on the back and use the link i showed you, take a pic for us to use, dvc2 or dvc4.

 

[Cartzo]

Here are the pictures. I only took out the left sub.

 

[ddnww]

Here are the pictures. I only took out the left sub.

i
i would also pull out the other sub to inspect it and verify its connected and wired properly. the two voicecoils are wired in parallel , when you connect easch sub to your amp its also making a parallel connection giving you a 1 ohm load. your amp is stable at 1 ohm. so your realistically around 7 or 800 rms to the pair which is perfect if theyre 400 rms each. your voicecoils, spider and tinsils look good from what i can see. like i said i would pull the other sub out too to check it out. i dont see anywhere in this thread anyone asking you exactly what its doing.. when it cuts out, see what the amp is doing, is it goin into protection, does just one sub cut out, is the amp stAY powered when they cut out. from here we can know whether its power, protection, or sub failure.

also , i cant see in the box, but is the box seperated into two individual enclosures, or can you see the other sub thru this subs opening. if theyre not seperate enclosures, you dont want to play just one sub. the larger enclosure with out the other sub running also can ruin your good sub.

 

[riceandpho]

i need a pic of the label at the terminal, it would let us know if its a 4 ohm dvc or 2 ohm dvc.

 

[Cartzo]

i need a pic of the label at the terminal, it would let us know if its a 4 ohm dvc or 2 ohm dvc.

It's 4 ohm dvc.

I don't know if it was the ISF at 25 that helped, but I ran them at the highest volume I could before distorting and it didn't cut out once. I think I'm still going to rewire them though. I'm going to try it like diagram #2...

Rockford Fosgate® - RFTECH Support

 

[riceandpho]

Wired the subs you have now the same way, dvc4 to a 2ohm load in each speaker terminal, might need to just clean up the wires on the terminals of the subs and jack. Then it should bring the load on the amp at 1 ohm, this will give enough power. Maybe the amp dont like 1 ohm, so u can try the 4 ohm load too, make each sub at 8ohms. Less power but safer. Isf sbould be in like 32's.

 

[riceandpho]

I doubt this amp like 1 ohm loads, get a rockford fosgate t1000bdcp, that can power anything, 4 ohm will be like 900s, 1ohm be like near 1400s. I want to swap my 2 jl audio 500/1 for that.

 

[ddnww]

It's 4 ohm dvc.

I don't know if it was the ISF at 25 that helped, but I ran them at the highest volume I could before distorting and it didn't cut out once. I think I'm still going to rewire them though. I'm going to try it like diagram #2...

Rockford Fosgate® - RFTECH Support

check my previous post at end of page two.. we need to know exactly what amp is doin to further troubleshoot.

 

[Cartzo]

Wired the subs you have now the same way, dvc4 to a 2ohm load in each speaker terminal, might need to just clean up the wires on the terminals of the subs and jack. Then it should bring the load on the amp at 1 ohm, this will give enough power. Maybe the amp dont like 1 ohm, so u can try the 4 ohm load too, make each sub at 8ohms. Less power but safer. Isf sbould be in like 32's.

My ISF only goes to 25. I'm fine with less power if I can turn the subs up more The sub level on my deck is at -11.

 

[BrianSD_42]

KAC-9105D Info Page
Kenwood - kac-9105d

Manual Download
http://manual.kenwood.com/files/4d0985641e435.pdf

SPECs From the manual

Rated at 900W x 1 @ 2 OHM (not possible with your speakers)
Rated at > 900W RMS x 1 @ 1 OHM
Rated at 450W RMS x 1 @ 4 OHM

FIRST
* Based on your speakers (two DVC-4 subs) you will be presenting either a 1 ohm load or a 4 ohm load to the amplifier, assuming you use both.
* Look at the diagrams below. Make sure you are correctly wired for either the 1-ohm or 4-ohm load.
* Assuming you fixed your wiring setup, try to create the error again.
* Switch between the 1 and 4 ohm setups (ohms presented to the amp)


About your subs .... if I read correctly, your SUBs are DVC-4.
To get what you desire, 450W RMS per sub (amplifer: 900W at 2 ohm load) you would need to wire each sub to present a 4 ohm load, then wire dual subs in parallel to present a 2 ohm load to the amp.

==== BUT ==== You cannot wire a single DVC-4 subwoofer to present a 4 OHM load.
Therefore you cannot present a 2-OHM load to the amp with those two speakers.


It is still possible that the amp doesn't perform well at 1-ohm and that is why it is cutting out
I see that the manual says this is a 1-ohm stable amp but still ...


I believe it is cutting out because:
a) the power wiring is not able to handle the 900W RMS load
b) the amp is not really stable at 1-ohm despite what the manual states
c) speakers are wired up to the amp incorrectly
d) amp is faulty

It is probably a, b or c.


Crutchfield Wiring Diagrams (free)
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams


If nothing else works just wire each sub to present an 8-ohm load and then present those in parallel to the amp.
The amp will see 4-ohms and you will get about 450W RMS out it, not 900. So about 225W RMS per speaker.


BTW in the future, just put the brand & model in your original post.

 

[Bucket81]

^What he said

and I don't like your ground it should be to the body not to the roll bar then the body there is a difference.

How to Properly Ground a Car Amplifier | Good & Bad Examples - YouTube

If I don't have a ground screw or a place for a nut and bolt I'll do the second option but actually screw through the terminal and make a second hole.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Yeah also as someone above already mentioned, the amp says "> 900 W RMS" at 1-ohm. That could mean 1200W RMS or 1400W RMS ... If that is what the amp is trying to pull then even your 4-g wiring might not be sufficient.

Assuming the amp does try to pull that much, I doubt it will sound very good but I don't have much experience with 1-ohm setups.

...........

I am building a setup for my 4Runner right now. A few months ago I got rid of my 7 year old MTX setup.

I just ordered a Alpine MRX-M55 amp which is supposed to present a stable 550W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms AND 90db s/n.

I plan to pair it with a single DVC-4 Type-R 10. :croc:

 

[Randyman...]

Alright - I agree I should have prompted for more info opposed to reading the build log linked in the OP's sig That's how I roll (detective style)...

So now that we know these P3's are dual-4 Ohm (DVC), you should probably wire them series-parallel for a 4 Ohm net load at the amp IMO. Any less than that (options are 4 Ohms or 1 Ohm at the amp) is simply taxing the amp to its limits (thermal and current limits). The amp has (3) 30-Amp car fuses - so there's no way it's pulling more than 90Amps - I'd say the 4Ga CCA is still more than adequate for this amp at any impedance load...

I'd also agree that my suggestion of enabling the subsonic on Page #1 (as seen in the pics) might have helped enough on it's own

Moving the ground to a direct connection to the chassis/body is also a good suggestion (thanks for posting pics of that as we hinted at on Page #1). You also need to check that your Battery-to-Chassis ground is of sufficient gauge. The stock ~6ga ground might squeak by, but I'd go with at least a 4Ga here. Measuring the voltage drop "at load" (also as suggested on Page #1) would also help determine if the wiring is up to the task...