Successful 5th Gen Key fob swap!

[LTDSC]

My key fob stopped working about a week after I got it. It's being sent out because the battery wasn't loose nor dead in mine. I love it though, hoping this new brain will last longer.

 

[Martinjmpr]

He sent me a label and I already sent it out. Hopefully it works when I get it back.

I originally posted this 2 days ago but I guess the forum had some posts lost.

I got my key all set up the other day and everything was working great...I was pumped. I made a trip to the store (about half a mile away) and picked some things up. I walked out of the store and used my new key to get in my car and get on my way. I pulled into my place and parked and got out and when I went to lock my car, the key fob was no longer working. I was quite frustrated thinking I had just wasted around $50 bucks for the key and to get it cut. I came upstairs and busted the thing open and looked inside and everything looked fine. I put it back together and it worked. I am guessing the battery was loose. There are 3 sets of speed bumps in my complex so I am assuming that that shook the key just enough to loosen the battery? It sort of worries me though because 1, I don't go over the bumps fast enough to shake very much and 2, the key is in the ignition when going over so its not like its slamming around or anything.

Anyone else have a similar issue? I am wondering if I should tape the battery down somehow. Thoughts?

My key fob stopped working about a week after I got it. It's being sent out because the battery wasn't loose nor dead in mine. I love it though, hoping this new brain will last longer.

OK, here's my story and it conforms pretty closely to the ones above:

So on Saturday, the key and fob were working fine, had been since Friday morning.

Went into the store, closed the doors and locked with the fob.

Went through the checkout line, came back out to the truck, fob is dead, no response to ANY of the buttons.

Starting to wonder if maybe there are some serious quality control issues with this key fob.

Interestingly, the chip still worked: Once I got into my truck I could put the key in the ignition and start right up. So it was only the electronics in the fob that were the problem.

 

[Hobson]

Sorry for those who have issues. My remote is still working fine, I didn't mean to cause headache and trouble by posting this.

 

[LTDSC]

Sorry for those who have issues. My remote is still working fine, I didn't mean to cause headache and trouble by posting this.

no big deal to me, they're taking care of it so im not worried. Its the risk i took buying from eBay. I loved it when it worked haha.

 

[Splicer]

OK, here's my story and it conforms pretty closely to the ones above:

So on Saturday, the key and fob were working fine, had been since Friday morning.

Went into the store, closed the doors and locked with the fob.

Went through the checkout line, came back out to the truck, fob is dead, no response to ANY of the buttons.

Starting to wonder if maybe there are some serious quality control issues with this key fob.

Interestingly, the chip still worked: Once I got into my truck I could put the key in the ignition and start right up. So it was only the electronics in the fob that were the problem.

The batteries do come loose I have the same problem. The problem seems to be with the way the battery is held in position. After trying some scotch tape which only lasted a couple of days today I put a couple of VERY small drops of super glue to hold it in. It seems there are some small tabs that break off that hold the battery in against the spring (guessing that’s what you would call it).

 

[DSH]

+1 on the dead after 2 weeks. Worked perfectly until now. This afternoon the remote doesn't work. Key works & starts yet, just no remote. Emailed the seller so we will see.

 

[V8Limited4wd]

Remote stopped working after 5 days... turned out the battery died so i swapped in the battery from my old remote. Hope that's the only issue i have with the key!

 

[Buckles]

Well the battery came loose on mine tonight. Got it back in place and should be ok now.

 

[dgwood12]

The batteries do come loose I have the same problem. The problem seems to be with the way the battery is held in position. After trying some scotch tape which only lasted a couple of days today I put a couple of VERY small drops of super glue to hold it in. It seems there are some small tabs that break off that hold the battery in against the spring (guessing that’s what you would call it).

Hesitant to use super glue, I decided to use hot glue as it is easy to remove if I ever need to pop the battery out and swap it for a new one. I put a small dab of hot glue on the plastic surrounding the base battery connector opposite of the side battery connector. This is the area where the battery has nothing to hold it down. After applying the glue I popped the battery in and held it down for about 10 seconds. It held perfect and don't expect it to come loose any time soon.

 

[Asmara]

OK, just got back from the locksmith. He looked at both keys and determined that the key was apparently cut correctly, and he went out to my truck to check it out. After a minute or so, he got it to turn in the ignition pretty reliably, although only one way (that is, with the remote controls facing to the left.) Since I had already programmed the chip, it started right up.

We still could not get it to work reliably in the driver's door and not at all in the rear hatch.

Locksmith explained it like this: Over time, both the key and the lock cylinder wear. If you're mostly using the same key (like I think most of us here do) then the lock and the cylinder wear together.

However, since we have a remote, most of us don't use the lock in the door, so it doesn't wear as much.

Since the door and hatch locks aren't quite as worn, the key doesn't work in them as well. Honestly this isn't a big deal to me - I can't remember the last time I actually unlocked my driver's door with the key and ditto for the hatch.

I would be worried about this. Everything is fine until the battery in your car dies because you went on a vacation or something. That's what happened to me, and my older keys didn't work in the door lock. Fortunately I had recently had spare keys cut to the VIN and so I had 'original' keys that worked perfectly in the door AND the ignition. I just got rid of all my old keys and have new ones cut to VIN. Here's a thread I started on the issue.

Like most of us I normally use the remote for both functions (although it would be nice if there was a "back window UP" position on the remote - I think somebody here did a hack for that didn't they?)

Here is the thread on hacking the back so the remote can raise the window.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Got my keys in! Would you guys suggest going to the dealer to get the keys cut or somewhere like home depot?

 

[LTDSC]

Got my keys in! Would you guys suggest going to the dealer to get the keys cut or somewhere like home depot?

any place will work because they're just going to trace your current key. Just make sure they de-bur it. Just check the edges before you leave and try your door lock to make sure it all works.

 

[Buckles]

Got my keys in! Would you guys suggest going to the dealer to get the keys cut or somewhere like home depot?

Do yourself a favor and go to a professional locksmith or the dealer. It will cutout a lot of the potential for a huge headache in the future.

 

[GixxerSteve]

Got my keys in! Would you guys suggest going to the dealer to get the keys cut or somewhere like home depot?

I just got mine in too today (with the Toyota logo on the back!!!), and I tried to go to Ace Hardware to have them cut. But apparently Ace won't cut keys that they don't sell. Stupid. So I think I'm just going to go to a reputable locksmith to get them cut, because I don't want to risk someone at Home Depot f-ing up my new keys just to save a few bucks.

 

[ryanbt]

I just got mine in too today (with the Toyota logo on the back!!!), and I tried to go to Ace Hardware to have them cut. But apparently Ace won't cut keys that they don't sell. Stupid. So I think I'm just going to go to a reputable locksmith to get them cut, because I don't want to risk someone at Home Depot f-ing up my new keys just to save a few bucks.

I'd go to the dealer and get it cut from the VIN. Mine did it for free. That way you have an original key and not a copy of a worn key.

 

[LTDSC]

I'd go to the dealer and get it cut from the VIN. Mine did it for free. That way you have an original key and not a copy of a worn key.

except depending on age you could have a working key or a non working key. I always copied the key that works right now instead of VIN cut for anything over 5 years old. I've cut too many expensive keys by VIN and them not working. Cylinders get old, tired and worn. Not worth the possible key loss to cut fresh by vin when all your cylinders have been accustomed to the used worn one.

 

[ryanbt]

except depending on age you could have a working key or a non working key. I always copied the key that works right now instead of VIN cut for anything over 5 years old. I've cut too many expensive keys by VIN and them not working. Cylinders get old, tired and worn. Not worth the possible key loss to cut fresh by vin when all your cylinders have been accustomed to the used worn one.

I guess I haven't had that problem. My '96 was getting hard to start (key difficult to turn). I went to the dealer last fall and got a new set of keys cut from VIN and it solved my problem.

 

[Asmara]

I guess I haven't had that problem. My '96 was getting hard to start (key difficult to turn). I went to the dealer last fall and got a new set of keys cut from VIN and it solved my problem.

Me either.

In our vehicles it is highly unlikely that the door locks have any wear on them so they should certainly work when cut to the VIN. The lift gate is probably in a similar state since most people would only use the key to put the window up.

That leaves the ignition cylinder. I don't doubt that there may be an anecdotal story or two about a key cut to the vin not working, it would be unusual. More likely is that the cylinder wasn't original or the lock was damaged.

Mechanically, as the key (primarily) and bottom pin -key side (more moderately) begin to wear, it would start to allow the top pin to drop down past the shear line and the might wear. The thing is, that since the bottom pin is not only wearing but started off correctly matched , a new perfectly cut key could never push the bottom pin up past the shear line to prevent the cylinder from turning. The lock would still have to work, even if the top pin was worn.

 

[Boxermachine]

Bought the one on ebay, for my 04 sport. I rand off to the truevalue, where they cut it free. However, when I tried to program it, no dice. I got to the part where the locks cycled, but the remote would not accept the code. I tried it at different intervals to no avail. Then I contacted the seller and returned it. It has the little dent 'hole' where my keys don't. Is there a difference?

 

[ryanbt]

Bought the one on ebay, for my 04 sport. I rand off to the truevalue, where they cut it free. However, when I tried to program it, no dice. I got to the part where the locks cycled, but the remote would not accept the code. I tried it at different intervals to no avail. Then I contacted the seller and returned it. It has the little dent 'hole' where my keys don't. Is there a difference?

I believe the 03-04 models have a different FCCID than the 05-09 for the keyless entry.