Sway A Way 2.5" Coil Overs

xcmountain80

New member

I scoured the internet and came up with nothing for installing the Sway A way 2.5” Coil Over. Part # SAW 101-5600-1for 96-02 4Runner, and 96-04 Tacoma.

Tools:
Floor jack
Wheel chocks
Jack Stands
19mm box wrench
19mm deep socket
Socket extension 6” +
Socket wrench
14mm box wrench
14mm shallow/ deep socket
OE Bottle Jack
This article no way makes you a mechanic nor me for that matter.
REMOVE
Chock rear wheels, loosen lugs, lift front end, remove lugs, remove wheels, loosen 14mm shock towers, loosen 19mm lower shock mount nut, remove 14mm shock tower nuts, remove 19mm lower shock mount nuts, remove shock strut.
INSTALL
The exact reverse of the above, but the large spacer that comes with the coil over goes toward the CV joint to space it properly and avoid contact. The upper bolts will allow two installations, one makes the shock body tight against the head, the other allows the shock body to move freely, ( I assume this is the best option in case the shock wants to be free).


 
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I scoured the internet and came up with nothing for installing the Sway A way 2.5” Coil Over. Part # SAW 101-5600-1for 96-02 4Runner, and 96-04 Tacoma.

Tools:
Floor jack
Wheel chocks
Jack Stands
19mm box wrench
19mm deep socket
Socket extension 6” +
Socket wrench
14mm box wrench
14mm shallow/ deep socket
OE Bottle Jack
This article no way makes you a mechanic nor me for that matter.
REMOVE
Chock rear wheels, loosen lugs, lift front end, remove lugs, remove wheels, loosen 14mm shock towers, loosen 19mm lower shock mount nut, remove 14mm shock tower nuts, remove 19mm lower shock mount nuts, remove shock strut.
INSTALL
The exact reverse of the above, but the large spacer that comes with the coil over goes toward the CV joint to space it properly and avoid contact. The upper bolts will allow two installations, one makes the shock body tight against the head, the other allows the shock body to move freely, ( I assume this is the best option in case the shock wants to be free).


Extended travel or standard? How do they feel what is your initial impression? You you have any extra eight in the front or stock?
 
I forget how shiny those things are when they're new. Good job. I love mine. They're due for a rebuild soon.
 
I am running a set of the Camburg branded version of these on the front of my runner. I love them. I have them about an inch to inch and a half above stock height. They provide a much better ride both on and off road over stock. Also, they seem to work even better the faster you go. never expierenced any fade and I have run them pretty hard a couple times. I did however break both sway bar end links running these. I'm assuming it was partially due to more travel and partially due to them having over 200,000 miles. either way, I just removed the sway bar even though I get a little more lean on corners. Overall for the $400 I spent on them (used) I am very happy.
 
Extended travel or standard? How do they feel what is your initial impression? You you have any extra eight in the front or stock?

Heck if I know, there was only one option on Wheelers site. Extended would have been ideal but it is what it is. I had a Bilstein 5150 from SS and a 3/4" Toytec spacer to level it out.

From what I gathered the SAW are set at 2" of lift, so I added the 3/4" spacer to that and called it a day. I'll need an alignment but give it week and see if they settle, before trying to level the back with the front.

Initial impressions.....nice.....45mph offroad, rough eaten up unmaintained roads at the same speed.....nice, have some steering play from the rack and rag joint I think.

Aquired a powering steering whine when I got home, hmmm 325k miles may have taken its toll on this PS pump.

Aaron
 
looks freaking sweet pal! Cant wait to get back down to FL so we can hang out! What are you running in the rear again...the new toytec super flex??
 
I hear ya! Yes the rear is suspended by the ToyTec Super flex springs and their Bilstein 5150/5100ish shocks. Super smooth ride in the rear and impressive coil stacking when towing (unlike the LandCruiser coils).

The front needs to come up to be level or damn near, I like a very slight rake front down rear up 1/8"-3/4" variance but no more than that for future loading and towing.

Aaron
 
I am interested in a good report on your thoughts on the SAW Coilovers vs. the Billy's. Mine is mostly a pavement pounder and I would hate to spend that kind of $$$$ and not gain a equivalent improvement in ride quality on the road. I am sure the off-road performance is much better.
 
Running Nitto 295/75/16 (3rd set 50-60k avg.) mounted to LX450 wheels 16x8 (4.5BS IIRC) does rub a little at FULL stuff.

Ill get some pictures posted shortly

......
 
I am interested in a good report on your thoughts on the SAW Coilovers vs. the Billy's. Mine is mostly a pavement pounder and I would hate to spend that kind of $$$$ and not gain a equivalent improvement in ride quality on the road. I am sure the off-road performance is much better.

Ill keep you in the loop.....mine has become a pavement pounder as of late but trails are still in the future. My Bilsteins have 200k or so on them and are for sale, according to Bilstein these are a lifetime shock. The Tundra coils will likely never fail or fatigue and that may be the major difference between the two set up right off the bat for the pavement crew. The Eibach spring is the standard 650lb last I checked, not sure what the Tundra spring rate it.
 
Because they are adjustable, and you are putting that much more stress on both your upper and lower balljoints and especially your CVs at full droop, not to mention you will probably bottom out the coilover before your bumpstop hits. Not good for the life and longevity of your shiny new Coilovers.
 
Also, your removal/installation process sounds super simple, is it really as easy as it sounds? I have a set of highlander CO's that I hope to install soon and I am hoping that it will be an easy swap.
 
Hmmm you have a valid point but spring compression vs position spacing come into play, let's not clutter the thread with a topic covered in the past, pm me if you like.
 
So easy a caveman could do it. Honestly it is, also probably why there isn't a write up on removing 3 bolts from the top and one through the bottom per side.


[MENTION=68504]xcmountain80[/MENTION] , I'm good bud, do your thing!:thumb3:
 
Also, your removal/installation process sounds super simple, is it really as easy as it sounds? I have a set of highlander CO's that I hope to install soon and I am hoping that it will be an easy swap.

Unless I missed something.....oh yea I used the bottle jack base mounted against the fender well and bottle jack contact point against the upper control arm to aid in getting the lower bolt aligned, other than that not much to it. Between my brother an I we did each side about 3 time to play with the lower mounts spacer alignments and the upper mounts position (more than just the 3 holes drilled into the top plate on the SAW CO's). Drank 2 travel mugs of coffee each so and 1-1.5 hours per side going very slow.
 
So easy a caveman could do it. Honestly it is, also probably why there isn't a write up on removing 3 bolts from the top and one through the bottom per side. [MENTION=68504]xcmountain80[/MENTION] , I'm good bud, do your thing!:thumb3:

Ahhh you beat me to it, damn caveman. The only thing he may have trouble figuring was the orientation of the shim/ spacer on the lower mount to clear the CV (if equipped). We ran it both ways on the bottom the. Both on the top. It is important that the CO does not rest against the top plate or it will bind when push comes to shove.
 

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