Sway bar end links compared

[Jack08520]

I received my order from Rock Auto. Unfortunately I was not advised that they are sold individually so now I have only one of each. Also one of them arrived opened with no hardware. After reading what was posted here I thought I'd provide some evidence.

At the right is Moog K80565 "1995 4runner front." Note that it has a zerk at and also does not narrow at the bottom like what I pulled off the truck (middle). K80565 is 1-1/2in shorter than 2002 stock.

At the left is Moog K80380 "1995 rear". Note that it is thinner throughout (3/8in vs 1/2in for 2002 stock). It is 3/4in longer.

Since I have only one of each I'll have to hit Pep and Advanced to see what they have. Worse case I just do the steering rack this weekend and the sway bar later. I don't really need the disconnects but I may wind up having to buy the ones mentioned in previous posts on this topic.

 

[MStudt]

I'm your hook up for disconnects.

 

[GVL]

We're you intentionally buying Gen 2 links for your Gen 3? I have a pair of K90681 arriving tomorrow which are sold as Gen 3 front links. I believe the front is longer than the rear so I think you have your front/rear reversed in the description. I'll post a pic w/measurements when I get them to see how they compare to your lineup.

So did you pull the OE link in your pic from the front or rear?

MStudt does have some nice links if you plan on keeping the sway bar. I have a feeling I might be ditching it if I don't get the desired result from the longer fronts I ordered for the rear.

 

[nor_cal51501]

So I JUST did my rear sway links to correct the steep angle I had after swapping to the 8 wraps. I was going to go with O.E. 3rd gen fronts but said FACK that after I priced them at one and a half bills. I ended up going with AutoZone brand(Duralast) end links. From what I was told, they are manufactured by the same company that makes Mogg links as well. They were double the girth of my O.E. ones. I used 3rd gen fronts for the rear. They are EXACTLY the correct length to bring the sway back to correct geometry. Bolted up nicely and are beefy and well made. Came with all the new bushings and hardware as well. I'd suggest going with AZ FTW. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the comparison, but if anyone is seriously curious I can hold my O.E. one up to snap a pic for comparison. The model number I used is SL3560 or DSL3560. Here is a direct link to exactly what I used.

Duralast/Sway Bar Repair Kit (SL3560) | AutoZone.com

And here's a picture of my passenger one installed.

 

[Supermoney]

So I JUST did my rear sway links to correct the steep angle I had after swapping to the 8 wraps. I was going to go with O.E. 3rd gen fronts but said FACK that after I priced them at one and a half bills. I ended up going with AutoZone brand(Duralast) end links. From what I was told, they are manufactured by the same company that makes Mogg links as well. They were double the girth of my O.E. ones. I used 3rd gen fronts for the rear. They are EXACTLY the correct length to bring the sway back to correct geometry. Bolted up nicely and are beefy and well made. Came with all the new bushings and hardware as well. I'd suggest going with AZ FTW. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the comparison, but if anyone is seriously curious I can hold my O.E. one up to snap a pic for comparison. The model number I used is SL3560 or DSL3560. Here is a direct link to exactly what I used.

Duralast/Sway Bar Repair Kit (SL3560) | AutoZone.com

And here's a picture of my passenger one installed.

Sorry if I can't read right, but what did you use for your fronts?

 

[GVL]

Here is the Moog K90681 I will be replacing the OE rear with. Feels pretty solid and looks like it should be the right length.

 

[nor_cal51501]

Sorry if I can't read right, but what did you use for your fronts?

I actually didn't have to do anything in front. I used the fronts though for the rear. I don't think I need to do anything in front. Do I?

 

[MStudt]

I actually didn't have to do anything in front. I used the fronts though for the rear. I don't think I need to do anything in front. Do I?

If you went longer on the back. Why wouldn't you go longer on the front? Same concept of getting the sway bar back in line.

 

[nor_cal51501]

[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]

It's very logical that the front needs an extended link as well, however I chose not to do one yet because I didn't notice nearly the change in the front as I did in the rear with my axel dropping and pulling the sway out of alignment. I will probably do the fronts when I finally get UCA's and get it dialed in 100%. Till then, I haven't noticed any issues with droop or binding.

 

[GVL]

So I JUST did my rear sway links to correct the steep angle I had after swapping to the 8 wraps. I was going to go with O.E. 3rd gen fronts but said FACK that after I priced them at one and a half bills. I ended up going with AutoZone brand(Duralast) end links. From what I was told, they are manufactured by the same company that makes Mogg links as well. They were double the girth of my O.E. ones. I used 3rd gen fronts for the rear. They are EXACTLY the correct length to bring the sway back to correct geometry. Bolted up nicely and are beefy and well made. Came with all the new bushings and hardware as well. I'd suggest going with AZ FTW. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the comparison, but if anyone is seriously curious I can hold my O.E. one up to snap a pic for comparison. The model number I used is SL3560 or DSL3560. Here is a direct link to exactly what I used.

So can you feel any difference yet with the longer links? I was going to do mine tonight but the Moog morons gave me the wrong size top nut in both boxes. The links look pretty nice for the money and I like the zerk so I'll just keep them and find the right size hardware for it I guess.

How did you get the bottom off where it connects to the bar? I was able to get a socket on there but it seems to keep spinning but not fully extracting. I don't see anything on the other end that needs to be held while loosening.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

So can you feel any difference yet with the longer links? I was going to do mine tonight but the Moog morons gave me the wrong size top nut in both boxes. The links look pretty nice for the money and I like the zerk so I'll just keep them and find the right size hardware for it I guess.

How did you get the bottom off where it connects to the bar? I was able to get a socket on there but it seems to keep spinning but not fully extracting. I don't see anything on the other end that needs to be held while loosening.

Should either have a place on the boot side where its round with two flat spots or the stud has a hex shaped hole

 

[GVL]

FWIW - I was all ready to replace the rear sway bar links and bushings, but took it for a spin down my local test trail after removing it and really liked the way it felt without it so decided to take the front off as well.

Could definitely feel the rig conforming to the trail much better in the real undulated sections and definitely mellowed out the harshness of the OME's. I really like it so far and plan on keeping it sway-free for now.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

If you went longer on the back. Why wouldn't you go longer on the front? Same concept of getting the sway bar back in line.

It's not necessary in the front because there isn't extreme articulation (IFS) like in the rear (Solid Axle). If you don't change them out in the rear they can actually hit your shock body on the passenger side. Also because I have no idea what links you would use, lol.

 

[MStudt]

It's not necessary in the front because there isn't extreme articulation (IFS) like in the rear (Solid Axle). If you don't change them out in the rear they can actually hit your shock body on the passenger side. Also because I have no idea what links you would use, lol.

It's still necessary on the front. Just because it's IFS doesn't mean that you don't need to adjust the sway bar back to its ideal location. The links are more to help control body roll which 85% of comes from the rear. That's way most people keep the rears and remove the fronts. With the weight of the front end along with the coil-overs. The front contributes very little to the body roll factor. IMO, extend the front or remove them all together, and replace the rears with longer ones.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

It's still necessary on the front. Just because it's IFS doesn't mean that you don't need to adjust the sway bar back to its ideal location. The links are more to help control body roll which 85% of comes from the rear. That's way most people keep the rears and remove the fronts. With the weight of the front end along with the coil-overs. The front contributes very little to the body roll factor. IMO, extend the front or remove them all together, and replace the rears with longer ones.

I think GOOD and WANT are more appropriate substitutes. I'm not saying you're wrong because I agree that ideally you would want to have it returned to factory geometry. However, you could get away with it in the front, wherein the rear will actually damage your shock. I removed my front and used the front links in the rear... I like the balance now, especially with a spare on top of the roof rack.

 

[atalarico]

Crap, not to threadjack, but did I just ruin my suspension over the last few years? I've had stock Duralast sway bar links front and rear, 3"+ lift with Eibach/Bilstein 5100 coilovers and OME/Bilstein 5125s in the rear.

I really somehow missed that I was supposed to get longer links in the back. I don't wheel super hard, but I have wheeled a moderate amount in the last two years.

Should I go disconnect the rears ASAP and then replace them with at least just Duralast front links? I've noticed my driver side has been sagging significantly in the last few months, and I verified I installed the OME A spring on the driver side.

I'm glad I read this thread!

 

[MStudt]

Crap, not to threadjack, but did I just ruin my suspension over the last few years? I've had stock Duralast sway bar links front and rear, 3"+ lift with Eibach/Bilstein 5100 coilovers and OME/Bilstein 5125s in the rear.

I really somehow missed that I was supposed to get longer links in the back. I don't wheel super hard, but I have wheeled a moderate amount in the last two years.

Should I go disconnect the rears ASAP and then replace them with at least just Duralast front links? I've noticed my driver side has been sagging significantly in the last few months, and I verified I installed the OME A spring on the driver side.

I'm glad I read this thread!

No, you shouldn't have ruined anything. However, I doubt you've fully cycled your suspension for the stock links. I'm also surprised you never broke a stock link. I broke mine within the first week. Now I make ones that I doubt you'll be able to break.

 

[atalarico]

Ah!! Thank god. Well, to be fair, I did actually snap two original factory links, one front and one rear, that were rusted out after I put my lift in. Here's the facepalm moment...I replaced them with the Duralasts and the rear ones were at least twice as expensive as the fronts. Oye. I'm a doofus sometimes. :lol:Totally going to replace those next.

Thanks for the quick and reassuring answer! =) Oh, and if I had the $$ I would totally buy your links! I just have a few bigger priorities first (tran cooler, brake upgrades, wheel upgrades, etc.).

 

[NHRunner]

I just wanted to share what I have now. I ripped through the washer on a rear link, so here is one of the replacements I got. This is Napa's middle-of-the-line endlink. They're $33 bucks a piece, so less than half of oem cost. Not only that, by the shaft on this thing is 11/16" as opposed to the 3/8" stock. It's greaseable and comes with a 1 year 12000 mile warranty. Im very pleased with them, especially for the price. Now I will play the waiting game to see how long they last.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

I ripped through the washer on a rear link

I did the same thing a while back... I switched to fronts for the rear and stacked washers for extra strength. It was nearly impossible to get a wrench or socket on the top nut to get it off to replace them because the washer had folded up around it.