Sway Bar Links - Eugene, OR

[MStudt]

studt, do you have these links for a 2014? I just can't find them anywhere and just came across thus post.

Everything is made to order, but I do make them for 5th Gen's.

 

[TE+6]

OK so how much are they? $200 for all 4 (rear and front)? I don't need the ones that disconnect.
Also, what will be the best way to reach out to you directly?

 

[MStudt]

OK so how much are they? $200 for all 4 (rear and front)? I don't need the ones that disconnect.
Also, what will be the best way to reach out to you directly?

I just sent you a PM!

 

[4Running Daily]

I just sent you a PM!

What welder do you have?

 

[MStudt]

What welder do you have?

I have a Miller 210, Miller 180, and Lincoln 140.

 

[470SNC]

So, for the rear, do you just disconnect one side or both sides, if you do both sides, you just leave the sway bar there or take it off completely? Thanks! awesome product!

 

[MStudt]

So, for the rear, do you just disconnect one side or both sides, if you do both sides, you just leave the sway bar there or take it off completely? Thanks! awesome product!

I run standard links on the rear of mine and get plenty of flex. I ran double disconnects for a bit, and just let the sway flop around. I would think you could leave one side connected, but I'm not 100% since I have tried that myself.

Mike

 

[MStudt]

Monday bump

 

[t-man]

I run standard links on the rear of mine and get plenty of flex. I ran double disconnects for a bit, and just let the sway flop around. I would think you could leave one side connected, but I'm not 100% since I have tried that myself.

Mike

I had one side connected for a while. If you flex the rear it will hit your lca and make noises. Never hurt it but sounded like it.

 

[MStudt]

I had one side connected for a while. If you flex the rear it will hit your lca and make noises. Never hurt it but sounded like it.

That's another option as well. The best way to do this would be to make your sway bar itself disconnect from one side.

 

[Andy in Pa]

I really like the ones your building, but would you be interested in doing a set of 3" front disconnects for me slightly different?

Check out this style-
TOMKEN MACHINE - Item Detail

I had a set of these from the link above on my Jeeps, but decided that there MUST be something better (tried ALL of the others too, and didn't like them because they were either too loose (JKS "Quicker" disconnects), or clunked when connected and driving on-road) and ended up swapping these BACK on my Jeep(s) anyway. These are a bit more cumbersome to disconnect/connect, but in my experience, the on-road performance outweighed that cumbersome-ness.

As I see it, there are two benefits-
1. The user may tighten up the sway bar mounts for better sway control.
2. There is no looseness tolerance buildup when using two hitch pins to hold the disconnected portion in place.

The thread size on the wing nuts were 7/16's or 1/2" (I can confirm) so the wing nuts were large enough to make it possible to loosen them/tighten them without too much trouble. Although I still needed a pair of pliers to loosen them occasionally, it wasn't a big deal.

Your thoughts?

 

[MStudt]

I really like the ones your building, but would you be interested in doing a set of 3" front disconnects for me slightly different?

Check out this style-
TOMKEN MACHINE - Item Detail

I had a set of these from the link above on my Jeeps, but decided that there MUST be something better (tried ALL of the others too, and didn't like them because they were either too loose (JKS "Quicker" disconnects), or clunked when connected and driving on-road) and ended up swapping these BACK on my Jeep(s) anyway. These are a bit more cumbersome to disconnect/connect, but in my experience, the on-road performance outweighed that cumbersome-ness.

As I see it, there are two benefits-
1. The user may tighten up the sway bar mounts for better sway control.
2. There is no looseness tolerance buildup when using two hitch pins to hold the disconnected portion in place.

The thread size on the wing nuts were 7/16's or 1/2" (I can confirm) so the wing nuts were large enough to make it possible to loosen them/tighten them without too much trouble. Although I still needed a pair of pliers to loosen them occasionally, it wasn't a big deal.

Your thoughts?

That's easy enough. The only issue is that the wing nut will need to be 1/2-20 thread. I know I can get them, but they're not cheap. You could essentially buy my singles, and add a wing nut to them. I remember them being somewhere in the ballpark of $15 for 2. Just let me know.

 

[Andy in Pa]

That's easy enough. The only issue is that the wing nut will need to be 1/2-20 thread. I know I can get them, but they're not cheap. You could essentially buy my singles, and add a wing nut to them. I remember them being somewhere in the ballpark of $15 for 2. Just let me know.

Cool... I am thinking that I may want to run different rubber bushings/steel washers too. I am not crazy about poly in this location if I am tightening it by hand with a wing nut. The bushings that Tomken uses are MUCH bigger than the standard ones. They are 1/2", but I am not sure they will fit well on a T4R. I'll do some research on it and get back with you for links.

Thanks,
A.

 

[MStudt]

Cool... I am thinking that I may want to run different rubber bushings/steel washers too. I am not crazy about poly in this location if I am tightening it by hand with a wing nut. The bushings that Tomken uses are MUCH bigger than the standard ones. They are 1/2", but I am not sure they will fit well on a T4R. I'll do some research on it and get back with you for links.

Thanks,
A.

Just let me know. The bushings I use are 3/4" thick and 1-1/8" wide.

Mike

 

[SL28]

Forgive me if the answer to my question is in the the thread already, but what manufacturer do you get your heims from?

 

[MStudt]

Forgive me if the answer to my question is in the the thread already, but what manufacturer do you get your heims from?

I don't really want to put that out here. Good heims can be found from Ballistic Fab though.

 

[SL28]

I don't really want to put that out here.

Why not? There's a lot of bad heims out there. I'm interested in sets of your links, but only if they're FK or something comparable.

 

[MStudt]

Why not? There's a lot of bad heims out there. I'm interested in sets of your links, but only if they're FK or something comparable.

I can get my hands on a variety of different brands. I use Midwest Control heim's, which are the same heims that Ballistic Fab and other places sell. They're a budget friendly heim that performs very well, and I've been using that brand for close to 10 years now. I can also get QA1 heims (XML8/XMR8), and I can get FK heims (JMXL8/JMXR8). Let me know if you want to go that route and I'll see what the price difference is going to be. Should only be about a $10 difference.

 

[2014 Warthog]

Hi, I got my sway bar links from you today. Awesome

I am a little confused on one point though. How the rear lower part of the link attaches to the sway bar.

I attached a of photo of a possible method but there is not enough threads to make this work.

Is the stud supposed to stay attached when disconnected? Or does it also come off after you remove the clip?

Anyway any help on this point would be awesome

 

[MStudt]

Hi, I got my sway bar links from you today. Awesome

I am a little confused on one point though. How the rear lower part of the link attaches to the sway bar.

I attached a of photo of a possible method but there is not enough threads to make this work.

Is the stud supposed to stay attached when disconnected? Or does it also come off after you remove the clip?

Anyway any help on this point would be awesome

View attachment 135292

That's how it should be. How much are you short by? I haven't had this happen before, and I did nothing different when making them.

Mike