Swaybar Bushing Upgrade

[Kmvreter]

... on my 07 sport 4.0 4x4,... also buy some extra grease, i used like a full pack of the prothane grease,...
... overall everything feels almost the same maybe a lil improvement, but i cant tell from now.

I take it you bought the greasable bushings with fittings. What type of grease do these take? What were all the part numbers of the parts you bought and where?

I wouldn't expect your Sport to see the same benefit as others without XREAS would, plus you have a newer truck.

 

[riceandpho]

i got everything from summit racing, it was 10 bucks cheaper for everything compare to jegs.
partnumbers are

ENS-9-8105G END LINK GROMMETS
PTP-19-1118-BL SWAY BAR MOUNT KIT
PTP-19-1146-BL SWAY BAR MOUNT KIT
PTP-19-1750 SUPER GREASE TUBE KIT
spent a total of 55bucks. since i bought 2 super grease, used some and saved a pack for future use, used about a tube on both endstops for the steering.
i did feel the difference now, its more flat on turns, no more body lean so far, have to wait for it to settle right?, also do yourself a favor and get some extra washers, its needed for the rear since the stock bolt have a washer that is too small for it to even hole the bracket on the bushing well.

 

[Kmvreter]

Thanks for the info.

 

[riceandpho]

another night of driving, flat turns and no body roll, usually i get some off this freeway exit i always ake, so far its all flat. maybe i should buy that addco swaybar, its 7/8inch thick and it should make it more flat right?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

another night of driving, flat turns and no body roll, usually i get some off this freeway exit i always ake, so far its all flat. maybe i should buy that addco swaybar, its 7/8inch thick and it should make it more flat right?

The Addco would take it one step further... I think it's a little thicker than OEM and the alloy is a little different too. 7/8" is a bit over 22mm.

Do it and write it up

:cheers:

 

[riceandpho]

another night of testing, at this turn where i usually slow down to 25-30mph at this turn, i went 40mph and floored it at the mid to end of the urn, and guys let me tell u this, its flat, hadling like a sport compact.
well i cant afford the 130 bucks for the addco sway bar, need the money for the bills and stuff right now. can u try it first and tell me lol.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

...need the money for the bills and stuff right now. can u try it first and tell me lol.

You and me both:lmao: Wish I could

 

[Kmvreter]

Planning to do this when the weather improves.

Ordered the following Energy Suspension parts from Canadian Tire (special order through Keystone):

9-8105G end link grommets just like others here have used (C$15.75).
(Edit: 9-5156G greaseable 19mm bushings for rear. These are the wrong size for my T4R; see postings below.)
9-5171G greaseable 30mm bushings for front (C$32.97).

Total of C$80 was the same as online (without the hassle of shipping across the border) and cheaper than the almost $100 at some performance shops. I'll post my results when done.

 

[riceandpho]

be sure to get some washers for the rear, i had to get some bigger washers becasue the stock ones were to small to secure the bushing bracket back to stock.

 

[J.A.]

If you need the larger washers you may want to a) use lock washers as well and b) increase the bolt legnth a few mm. I know that when I used the washers on my rear bar the bolts came out due to being too short. Also be sure to use new nylock nuts up front and lock washers help also.

 

[steve germany]

If you need the larger washers you may want to a) use lock washers as well and b) increase the bolt legnth a few mm. I know that when I used the washers on my rear bar the bolts came out due to being too short. Also be sure to use new nylock nuts up front and lock washers help also.

Can you provide the recommended size washers and nylocks? In Germany the parts need to be found before starting the job. My links should be arriving soon thanks to Chris!

Thanks
Steve

 

[steve germany]

be sure to get some washers for the rear, i had to get some bigger washers becasue the stock ones were to small to secure the bushing bracket back to stock.

What size should I buy? ID and OD....

Thanks !

 

[J.A.]

Can you provide the recommended size washers and nylocks? In Germany the parts need to be found before starting the job. My links should be arriving soon thanks to Chris!

Thanks
Steve

You can check my write up at my website but it is for the 3rd gen. You will get the idea of what is needed though. I used 4mm longer bolts out back.

 

[Kmvreter]

Planning to do this when the weather improves...
...
9-5156G greaseable 19mm bushings for rear.
...
I'll post my results when done.

It was a decent day for weather so I tackled this.

Did the front first, no issues.

The rear, however, turns out not to be 19mm on my '04 V6 4x4 (shame on me for not measuring.) The bar is thicker (that's a good thing) and actually measures 21.59mm to 21.60 (0.850 to 0.854".) I wonder if the earlier 4th Gens all have 21mm rear bars or is this a Canadian thing? Earlier posts all reference 21mm (for the V8 bar) but what have others actually measured it at?. Energy Susp only has a 20.5mm or 22mm but too large is no good. Having clearance defeats the purpose of less body roll. I want greaseable so I'll have to get the Prothane 21mm 19-1164-BL.
I'll also do the endlinks at that time.

Even though the job isn't finished, I felt an immediate improvement in less cornering roll. You get so used to the truck over time that you don't realize how it deteriorates. Now that I've done these bushings the slight flexing noises that I didn't pay attention too, or realize I had, are gone. The front suspension is back like new.

 

[simple]

I want to do this, but am a bit confused.

I've been noticing, there are 2 styles, does it matter if I order A or B?

Also, Chris do yo have the pt number for the bushings you used, or is it the energy ones you have posted on the front page?

Thanks!

edit- also, with shipping mine only comes to about 45 bucks, am I supposed to order 2 of something?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I want to do this, but am a bit confused.

I've been noticing, there are 2 styles, does it matter if I order A or B?

Also, Chris do yo have the pt number for the bushings you used, or is it the energy ones you have posted on the front page?

Thanks!

edit- also, with shipping mine only comes to about 45 bucks, am I supposed to order 2 of something?

The bracket style thing takes care of itself... When ordering the diameter required for the front it's only availible in 'style B' and for the rear only 'style A' which is what you need.


This is exactly what I bought: Prothane 19-1118-BL (Rear), Prothane 19-1146-BL (Front), Energy Suspension 9-8105G (End-link bushings for rear).


I have tried to edit the very first post in this thread to have all the current and correct info. If you prefer the greasables there's the info in that first post towards the bottom.


You shouldn't need to order 2 of anything as they are sold in pairs. You should be ordering 3 part #'s total; front, rear and end-link bushings for the rear.

Good luck! Add your 2 cents when you get them
:cheers:

 

[Kmvreter]

... I want greaseable so I'll have to get the Prothane 21mm 19-1164-BL.
I'll also do the endlinks at that time.
...

The rear bushings came in (Canadian Tire special order C$39.67) so I finished this job. Kept the stock bolts with washers and added size M8 washers (the bolt length still protrudes out the back nut.) Changed out the grease fitting for an angled one (see pic below) on the drivers side because the gas tank shield is too close to get the grease gun coupler straight on. I did the same to the front fittings so that I don't have to remove the skid plate to grease them.
Also did the rear endlinks at this time.

Overall improvement in less body roll while cornering is well worth the total cost of ~ C$93.

 

[simple]

To anybody who's done this? How do you get the endlinks off? I may have broken mine, the but the bolt just rotates w/the washer. And I tried turning it real hard once and a little grease squeezed out. Its kind of like the bolt on the shocks. It rotates when trying to take off the washer, making it a PITA when your trying to change the rear shock that was torqued to a 1000lbs by a 500lbs gorilla.

 

[Kmvreter]

To anybody who's done this? How do you get the endlinks off? I may have broken mine, the but the bolt just rotates w/the washer...

Not sure if you broke it. Spray the nut with WD40 or something similar the day before to let it work in. The top of the endlink has a hex pattern. You need to hold that with a smaller wrench (IIRC 6mm.)

 

[PolkManiac]

I know this is an old thread, but came across it as I was looking around and think I wanna give this a try, but I do have some questions first.

1 - First I need to locate and measure the diameter of the rear sway bar. Do I only need to do this on the rear bar, or both the rear and the front? Am I just measuring the diameter of the bar itself, or is there a specific place or something I need to measure.

2 - To change the front bushings do I need to unscrew or loosen any bolts, or do I just pop the old one off and snap the new one on? Anything else I need to know about changing this one?

3 - On the rear, it looks from the picture like that bushing is held in place by a metal clamp. is that right, what do I need to do to change that one, just loosen that bolt?

4 - I can't tell what's going on with the endlink bushings, do those just slide on and off, or do I need to loosen bolts there?

5 - Do I need anything else like grease to do this?

I may be able to figure some of this out by actually looking under the truck, but any advice you guys can give is appreciated.